desong

March is the official new season (end of monsoon) but I went early/mid Feb and it was calm & sunny throughout. My post in the UK forum + some pics... http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=37273 Des

Being grazers, most Tangs 'nibbles'. This effect is more pronounced if the Tang is kept in a tank too small and/or insufficient food is available. Des

New fish can be jumpy too, literally. So watchout. Have some sort of a cover for your aquarium for the fisrt few days, especially if you have established/aggresive fish. Des

Not often, but occasionally I find posts like this one slightly uneasy to read. My initial respond is that of anger - why won't hobbyists research before buying? But then after a few deep breath, I realised I too have been down this path before in the distant past. So before I preach, here's a few reasons why I don't think this fish is suitable for your aquarium: 1) Platax pinnatus, the Red-faced BAtfish, is a finicky feeder. Like the Anthias, it's used to feeding on life zooplanktons. Your best bet would be to start with live food then slowly wean onto other ready prepared fish food. 2) It can be very susceptible to white spot (Cryptocaryon irritans), so may require treatment with copper. As you know this is not possible in an invert system. 3) Perhaps the most important aspect of all, is the welfare issue. This cute little guy can grow up to nearly 2 feet in length, so your 3 feet tank will be grossly inadequate. If you are seriously interested in keeping this fish, the depth alone ought to be at least 2 feet deep. 4) Last but no least, the adult will loose the elongated finnage and is dull silver/grey. Back to ranting... or may be not. I just wish more hobbyists would use the web to research first before buying, that's all. Just remember that the animals do not have a choice, we do. So we need to be more responsible. Sorry, don't mean to offend. Best of luck, Des

Chselee - I have a Tunze Stream (the smallest, can't remember model no.), and 2 Sequence 750 for water movement and recirculation through sump. The fishes are fed with a mixture of quality flakes, high protein pellets and several varieties of frozen diets. Feddy - see my previous post for sump photos + Kelvin readings. I'm using a mixture of Radium & Arcadia SE bulbs at the moment. Do they make 400w DE? I've not come across any yet... what's the difference? Tuan - by algae I'm assuming you mean nuisance/hair algae. We do have fine dusting of green alga on the glass/walls and then there’s the blue-green, although technically not an algae. Controls are mainly via herbivores: tangs, snails & starfishes (Asterina sp.). In a mature & balanced system you shouldn’t get a great deal of measurable N & P, with or without skimming. In contrast to popular believe, IMO, the Miracle Mud System doesn’t actually simply ‘filters’ the water, although the macro algae culture does play an important role in nutrient export, especially in the early stages when the tank is maturing. Rather, it ‘encourages’ nutrient/food uptake through facilitating the presence/growth of greater number of animals & plants (than heavily skimmed systems) – essentially ‘forces’ all inhabitants to try and form a natural balance or greater level of nutrient cycling. It is not possible to achieve this entirely in the limitations of an aquarium, hence it still necessitate water changes, calcium additions etc. etc. I find it difficult to cover large areas with regards to the various microbial bio-chemical processes in the confines of a forum as most are not so clean-cut and many are interlinked. I’m happy to continue answering brief spec related questions here and if anyone is really into the more in-depth stuff, I suggest you contact EcoSystem Inc. in US or phone me if you can bear the phone bill! Des Hydnophora exesa left, Montipora capricornis (?) 04-07-2004 07-07-2004 09-07-2004 23-0702004

Dood - you're right, but I do have sand - I just prefer the look plus I think 'ecologically' is more complete. As for the bio-balls, I use coarse & static mats and they do get washed from time to time with cold (chlorinated) tap water. Eric - 4 x 14K & 1 x 20K, for about 10 hrs per day. No DSB. Despite my previous post, you should strive to achive 420ppm of Ca2+ and 3 meq/l of alkalinity. There's a calcium reactor but it isn't coping with the uptake. FWIW, I've kept corals at lower levels BUT I don't recommend it, unless you're really up on bio-chemical processes... (not in anyway suggesting that you don't!) Auberon - what's 'FR'?? JS - you should aim for about 5kg per 50gal. Kkoil2000 - see above for lighting. Yes I know it's hard to believe, but definately no skimming here! Alentino - are u referring to the cost of using the MMud? The mud + lighting are about 60% of an appropriately sized skimmer, roughly speaking. Here are a couple of full tank shots as promised - one from the side 1m x 1m while another from the front 1.5mx 1m. Des

Surfedelic - the chiller can handle between 180g (maintain upto 5.5C) to 360g (upto 2.5C). It's on for about 10 hours, basically almost the entire time the lights are on, no surprise there! As for water parameters, I'll have to confess I don't test as often as I should have. The following data was prepared for a book about three months ago:- Specific gravity: 1.023-1.025 pH: 8.1-8.2 Alkalinity: 2.0 meq/l Calcium: 320-360ppm Nitrate: Undetectable Phosphate: Undetectable Vagabond - the tank receives between 5-30% every 4-6 weeks, depending on work load/schedule. Auberon - the system isn't located in my home, but in a boardroom at work. Ervin - it really isn't a lot of light when you have 15 sq/ft and over 3ft of water to punch through. I don't blame you, as originally when I first set it up, I too thought 1 x 400w was a lot of light, never mine 5!

Yes, we use heaters . But since the installation of extra halides I've not been needing them anymore. I'm getting a few pm's from some of you and I thought it'd make more sense if I try and answer the questions on this thread in case others are interested plus it'd save replying to the same questions again individually. Firstly I don't have any up to date full tank shot at hand but will try to take one in the next few days. As for the sump, here are a couple not so recent ones showing 3 species of Caulerpa. The sump is lit by a 150w HQI, 24/7. Yes the tank does have some cynobacteria, mainly on part of the substrate that doesn't get an awful lot of flow. This is seasonal however - summer months mainly where longer daylight and elevated temperature triggers growth. Some also exist on the walls of the refugium but the density and growth of the macros do not allow it to settle. Ken, I use Miracle Mud. I have no idea whether they have a stockist in Singapore. I'd suggest you try contacting them at ecosystemaquarium.com All the best, Des

The system also has a calcium reactor to help maintain calcium & alkalinity levels. Freddy, the system is 3ft wide x 3ft deep x 5ft long. I originally started with 1 x 400w (very naive), then onto 3 and finally when the halides failing I decided to upgrade to 5. IMO any less just won't do for the animals I try to keep. It's summer right now and it's impossible to keep the temp down without employing a chiller (Aqua Medic 1500). It maintains the tank between 23-25.5C. Des

I'm more than happy to answer any question you may have... Yes it's skimmerless, nutrient export is via natural processes including macro algae uptake, microbial processes in and on mud etc. Tank measures 1m x 1.5m long x 1m, and holds about 1600 litres including sump. Just over 2 years old. Lighting consists of 5 x 400w HQI & 4 x fluorescents. About 50 fish with 24 being anthias - P. squamipinis & P. bicolor. Des

Depends on several factors, not least species, condition of the animal when sold and of course environmental issues...etc. J. Sprung have spent some time studying this genus and has published an article or twon in the subject, with reference to the importance of certain trace elements. If my memory serves me right, They were in Advanced Aquarist online magazine. Des

Thanks guys. My experience is that its actually much less work. With less technology, the focus shifts more towards animal & plants and all the biological processes. Here are some recent photos I took of the system under my care. FAYI, I work for an aquatic distributor in the UK that supply MMud. Des

Does any of you guys doing it 'natural' style i.e. using macros + sand/mud bed as part of your biological filtration without skimming? Des

How far down the road are you? Has it just started? Des