daveyy

Im selling my radion if u are interested. Look for my post.

I have read them before actually. (The first few page and the last few) didnt go through too indepth. I feel dosing according to the table is slightly safer. Didnt really want to push the limit. Are you dosing vinegar too? Able to share the regime?

What do you suggest me to read?

For me. Changing water, usually shock my tank as my fish / coral appeared adversely towards it every time i change. I feel the time + salt + water + effort to change water is not worth it. I prefer the dosing / nutrient export / refugium route [emoji1] even thou it cost more money (debatable) but I prefer to enjoy the hobby admiring it rather than being a slave to it every fortnight. But to each its own, of course. Everyone might feel differently on the each approach. I think is not wise to chase number, but to chase for stability instead.

water changes is not the only solution to reduce nitrate. I'm not debating that it won't work, in fact, it does work and the most straight forward way to reduce nitrate. but I'm keen to work smart and not work hard for the hobby. water change are promoted in the past, but now, there are several many way which are being practiced.

What I’m saying when the person mentioned .15ml per gallon. It looks like 15ml , if they speed read and omit out the ‘.’ In that case 15ml per Gallon is disastrous

Curious. U all take whole system volume or display tank volume?

Add 0 to your .15. ltr they dose 15ml per gallon, GG. Rule of thumb is dose slow, my tank has a total volume of 1000L, i started with 8ml, then 16ml then slowly increase. Once see white film, slow down again. Do note vinegar will reduce PH. Reefers can refer to the pic below, this is based on 5% acetic acid. if higher concentration, divide/multiply accordingly. https://www.google.com.sg/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjc16mjh-bbAhWFt1kKHdaDDFIQjRx6BAgBEAU&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.3reef.com%2Fthreads%2Fquick-about-vinegar-dosing.137304%2F&psig=AOvVaw2xPWJnrHeMo82odc8_GY4V&ust=1529715184396098

Hmm, I dont think this is sanrise LED, this is china black box LED.

Wah. Thats alot! Thanks for sharing! [emoji1]

Can share Where did u purchase ur commercial additives?

Do good do for yourself and others. Rid your tank of pest before u sell anything. If u knowingly sell pest ridden frags, i think is right* , morally. Unknowing newbie might just buy and place in their tank. Your aiptasia infestation is quite bad, are u doing some form of counter action against it? If you need advice, start a thread, pm me. I can give you some advice. Tentatively, there is no rules that say u cant sell pest ridden frags. But I hope you do not sell anyone these frags.

Looks like its stn/rtn at the bottom? Any front view pic? Whatsapp - Https://api.whatsapp.com/send?phone=6598895566

I think he meant he diy it. U can go to some fresh water lfs to purchase a huge sheet for i think $20odd dollar, roughly 422 size iirc. But u need to find the right kind, the rigid type. There is another softer kind which ppl use, those that can piece them up into a bigger piece. I suggest you stay away from that, that is too weak to support the skimmer weight. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Ahh nice [emoji1303] Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Hmmm. The constant vibration by the pump would disintegrate the marine pure bit by bit. U could consider using a acrylic stand or ask the tank maker to help you make a skimmer stand. Thats what i asked my tank maker to do and it wasnt expensive. There is a risk the skimmer might fall off and the water will be skim directly onto the floor. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Just be careful they do nom most of the thing accidentally. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Fire urchin noms on zoas, iirc Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I see your controller box are well under the overflow box, arent u afraid of leakage / union failure or even fish splash water out of the tank? I see there is a wooden board under it, but water will find its way if there are enough of them. i always think the controller box should be situated away from potential leakage. My next tank i would design it to be beside / or slightly abv the overflow with a wooden plank partioning it, almost like another door within the drawer. Haha. Hard to explain. A door within a door, door ception. But nonetheless. Very impressive build to incorporate the water change system within the capentry. Good idea for my next build.

Yes yes, those who went there would know why. Ong Lai ah Ong Lai. Liew Lian ah Liew Lian. Haha

Im using the max flipper. Very effective.

Nice looking zoas/paly. Do you know their ID? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I saw at Pinnacle last sat. Can call and check. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Ai prime are decent. However difference between HD and non HD are 1) built in wifi capability 2) overdrive LED If you are buying one set only, granted for this wireless function, if not you are effectively paying for additional wireless function which you don’t neef if you are buying 2 or more fixture. Which is why Orphek and Radion (and other brand) doesnt have onboard wifi to minimise cost which would transfer to the customer. Theirs are all external controller to control them. So i feel that this is a major step backwards by Aqua Illumination And for the overdrive LED part, i don’t know about other ppl, but i wouldnt overdrive my LED, heck, i wouldnt even go beyond 80%. I strongly believe by overdriving them, they are subjecting them to premature failure. So to me, thats why i opted for 4 hydra52 non HD instead of HD. Of course, if you like the bells and whistle of a newer unit. By all means. But to me, nono, hydra52 would suffice. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Ahh haha. Guess as much. Thanks! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app