hammy

i like it ... more pic ya...

it is very difficult to get really good light for tank less than 2 feet . PL will be the best case . 2 X 11 watts or higher will be better. can try petmart... even sam pet aquarium carry them i think... at parkway there.

hi , guess u are new to anemones ... after my tragic RTBA was nuked in my pump , i have decided not to keep one . saw some false percular swimming . it's like a preference . if it dun like the 'home', it will not live in it . it's like a tikam game . give ur clown some time to get use to the home . anyway ur anemones look bleached . read somewhere that there is no such thing as white one , maybe only maybe with proper care and lighting , u might nurse it back to the brown colour one . placed it in high lighting area, and maintain temp preferably around 27degree with moderate flow . just an advice , clown dun really need anemone, however with one is interesting but do take care as having one anemone is like having a bomb . watch out for the pump ,if it show signs of stress or dying soon , remove it asap.

brighten up my boring day. thanks

thanks for sharing ur tank with us , how's ur clam doing ? i intend to buy a clam , however my light is only 2X24 HO T5...

no harm to fish , unless u are shining it directly at ur fish lah. flow of the water through the UV muz be slow for suffient time for the short wavelength to penetrate and kill the parasite

haha.. my first ric from acidjazz , ths pic not well taken

some yellow polyp with some zoo on it ... love it even though it's cheap, brighten up the tank

some 3 dollars zoo from the recent shipment

the authorities seem to claim that it is below 50ppm which is still great for drinking but not that great for reefing . different area have different nitrate level.

the short wavelength of a good UV will destroy the DNA of the free floating parasite... those attach to the fish will take some time . not a cure for ich, but rather serve as a enhancement to help control ich .

upz for u . great quality piece from u

other inhibitant are flame angel and a true perc . all living in peace . the second idea sound great. worth a try. thanks man

anyway using large coral chip as sandbed may pose some nitrate problem as a lot of detrius may be trapped.

air bubbles will not have adverse effect to the eco system . it's for viewing pleasure purpose man gas exchange occur at the surface of the water , adding bubbles to the water may increase oxygen quantity , but maybe a small fraction. agitation of water surface will have a good gas exchange to allow sufficient O2 in the system. i believe most of us dun really use bond to glue to the live rock but rather let the coral sit in a firm position . dropping the coral a few time may stress the coral and the part that is not exposed properly to the water may die off too . find a suitable position for the coral , a firm one where snail nor hermit can kachio till it drop off from some height. just some suggestion , maybe can change the blue background to a black one ??

finally introduce my sunburst into the main tank , and ever since i have seen it hiding in one corner for like nearly a week wthout eating. only swim out when i am not in front of the tank... saw it eating today and feel a sense of relieve. how can i overcome this shyness of the beautiful anthias . buy another friend to accompany him ? or watch him from afar . give him more time . any suggestion is welcome . thank u !

haha... just bought a great ric florida from bro acidjazz , will post pic soon ... dun be so humble leh, my tank when compare to urs is like a storeroom liao , , keep in touch , can chio me to lfsing too, actually i learn a lot from u . really

hi , have a pair of 3 feet FL alu casing 25 watt with arcadia tube to swop with any soft coral. preferably green star polyp. any soft or mushroom will be considered . thanks for reading . a small frag will do , no need a big one . even mushroom , 2-3 frag can le as my tank is only 2 feet . please pm mi or post pic in this thread ?? hee hee.

the main purpose of rowa is to absorb mainly PO4 and silicate which serve as a fertilizer to fuel the growth of algae such as diatom and green hairy algae or even cyano algae . the diatom will not drop off but will slowly die of starvation because the food is absorb by rowa . u can increase the flow of the water or decrease the photo period , water change to decrease the nitrate will slowly cause the diatom to disappear. or else maybe some snail ?? ROWAphos need to be replaced and when do u need to replaced depend how accurate your po4 testkit is . yes , once , it started to rise , it show that the rowa is exhasted.

basic parameter like ammonia and nitrite should be zero to complete cycling process . when fishes are infected with parasite , normally their first reaction to the parasite is to form a layer of white film to counteract the parasite . with that that , normally the fish will scratch themselves against the rock or tank surface to get rid of the parasite . symptom like white spot is almost a confirm indication of the dreadful ich. i will not recommend copper if u intend to have coral in the later stage . skimmer IMO , does not help to eradicate ich. if ur tank right now is fishless or coralless , i will advice to leave it fishless for 6 weeks to 8 weeks to totally eradicate the parasite's cycle. hypo is not necessary if there is no life form in ur tank because with hypo in the main tank , pH , KH may be unstable . some invertebrate on the live rock will die off too if u perform hypo to 1.008. and , set up a QT tank ya just some suggestion . enjoy reefing

generally hard coral are more difficult than soft coral such as mushroom . for hard coral , parameter like ammonia , nitrite = 0 and nitrate and phoaphate and even calcium muz be in acceptable range trace element such as strotium , iodine and other azre necessary fro growth . can read up more ya flow muz be good too. generally hammer, octo , froqspawn muz have good lighting . i find that at least PL of 2 X 55 watts muz be used for 2 feet so that coral had comfortable lighting . with that temp muz be below 29 degree . i keep in constant at 27 like that. however for sps , it is out of my ability , can consult my friend loster. seen his sps colour up and growing healthy

used to feed them like thrice a day during my long break. but as for now , once a day ... to mi no matter how much i put , they will still finish it , but i will try not to feed till their stomach are too bloated.

in my encounter with ich parasite , they are controllable either by hypo or copper in my QT tank. with garlicguard mysis and brine , frequent water change , and UV to bring the parasite under control.