SubzeroLT

I just checked my ammonia - 0ppm. Perhaps its light related. I've tuned it down further for it to recover. No, i'm not running carbon. I run Rowaphos but have not changed it for about 3 months since phosphate is undetectable. Do you you think it was perhaps adding GFO/Carbon could have stripped something out of the water?

Nice rock scape! Look forward to updates

I've read folks running quite high levels as well. I figured my corals are acclimatized. UV started at 10% in January 15 & acclimatize slowly to 75% in June. I've been running running at 75% level for about 2 months without issues. In any case, I've cut it down till its fully understood.

I run a biopellet reactor. Pellets are depleting (nitrates creeping up to around 5-10ppm). I dosed brightwell biofuel until i purchase more pellets. I'm not sure if this is the cause as i've been practicing this for some time. You think it could be carbon dosing? The digi colony has been with me for about 4 months. In the same location all this while - Back of the tank's frag rack which isn't very bright actually. Lighting. Running 2x Hydra 26 in a 3ft tank. Corals have been acclimatized to roughly 75% UV, 70% violet, 95% blues, 20% red/green, 80% white for some months already. Since the blistering happened, i've cut back the lighting (generally lower for the rest of the colors. Major reduction is UV down to 15% & violet to 60%.). Thanks for sharing your thoughts on lighting. I think its one of the factors as the blistering would be worse at the end of the day compared to lights on. But i'm sure there is another cause for triggering it. Food for SPS. I dose live rotifers every alternate day (home cultured). Polylab Polyp extender once every 2 weeks. Reef Roids once every 2 weeks. Food for fish. Pellets morning & night. Henry's reef gourmet on alternate nights (instead of pellets)

Seeking advise on what could possibly be causing these symptoms on my some SPS : 1) Bubbles forming. Flesh/skin seem to be lifting off the skeleton. View of jade green digi: 2) Odd Milli polyp extension. - Milli typically & used to have 'hairy' polyp extensions. - In the past week, the polyps look like this - no hairy extensions but instead have these extensions that protrude out a lot It used to look like this : I've tried googling these symptoms but information was not exactly clear. Seeking some advise in this forum - any experience or idea what's causing it? Only some SPS seem affected. LPS & fishes doing perfectly fine. Water parameters : - Salinity : hovering around 1.025 - CA : 400ppm - Mg : 1300ppm - KH: 7.6 dKH - Nitrate : 5ppm - Phosphate : barely detectable - Potassium : measured at 370ppm (Salifert). Dosed to 400ppm (Continum powder) - could this be the cause? - Temperature : Chiller set at 26deg C - Lighting : 8hrs a day

Some pics of Zoa frag given by fellow reefer some time back. Didn't realize the nice coloration till I looked at it from the top + blue light recently.

Typo. I meant to say "In case you feed your reef tank certain food & don't want them to be caught in the wrong sized mesh"....

I got some great filter socks from DE Aquatics recently. Very affordable Bubble Magnus nylon filter socks which are so easy to clean under the tap. The blue ringed one is labelled as FB-02. The staff at DE Aquatic told me this is a 200 micron filter. And there is a orange ring sock labelled as FB-01. I'm told this is a 100 micron filter. That made sense & i got both anyway. However, i noticed that the Blue one (FB-02) clogged faster. Decided to take some measurements of the pore size. Results below : Ignore the scale from photoshop. The blue one (FB-02) has a pore mesh size of about 140 micron The orange one (FB-01) has a mesh size of about 250 microns Information from DE Aquatics wasn't right. Anyway, just sharing this information for your planning in case your reef tank certain food & don't want to get caught in the mesh. I repeat...these are great filter socks. I recently bought several more.

The controller is needed for the wavemaker as it controls the speed & pulse timing. Your idea of using a powerhead instead can also work.

Something like this : http://list.qoo10.sg/item/DIGITAL-LCD-DAY-TIME-ELECTRONIC/406096784 Connect the power adapter (which then connects to your controller->wavemaker) to the timer & set it to switch on / off as per your desired time.

Agree with PoorPicasso. A simple $15 digital timer will work. Else if you have an Apex Neptune system, its possible to mod a cable to control the Jebao wavemaker.

I would feed the other fishes first. Once they are fuller, they won't rush for the brine shrimps so much & let the mandarins have a chance to eat them. Don't worry about the other fishes, they will still take pellet food in future.

Freshly hatched baby brine shrimps are supposed to be very nutritious. Unfortunately, most LFS don't carry it anymore. You'll need to hatch them on your own. Adult brine shrimps are less nutritious but nevertheless still a food source. They are good to keep fishes alive as you slowly accustom them to frozen food or pellets. You can fortify the adult brine shrimps by feeding them Selcon (available at LFS) prior to feeding them to your fishes.

They have standard sized acrylic sheets/tubes. They can cut to your specifications. Contact them on your requirements.

Dama is the cheapest & best source locally. http://dama.com.sg

Yep. Sea monkeys = brine shrimps.

Been fighting the dreaded cyano bacteria outbreak the past 2 weeks. Its everywhere. Phosphate barely detectable. Nitrates 0.5ppm. I'm not 100% sure of the cause but i suspect it could be related to one of the wavemakers getting jammed (and hence much reduced flow). Noticed it only several days after trying to fix the slime outbreak. . Done a couple of things aside from fixing the wavemaker & siphoning out the cyano - Add 10ml of Microbacter7 daily (3ft tank). Use beneficial bacteria to outcompete cyanobacteria. - Add 5ml Biofuel daily. Carbon source to speed things up - Turn on air pump when skimmer is off. Provide more oxygen to the system Airstone tied to rocks to keep it down in the sump Trusty ole airpump. Super powerful Seems much better after 2 weeks. Treatment continues....

Pulsing xenia frag from a friend. Nice to see it has about doubled in size since. Golden clove recovering after being touched by the sweeping tentacles of a torch coral. Evansi Anthias & McCosker's Flasher Wrasse hiding behind a new rock .

Local sets are rated at 240v. No transformer needed. Direct plug into the wall plug. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks. The flame angel doesn't touch the clams nor corals. Nips on seaweed sheets though. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

There are many shops that sell it. Mostly closed on Sunday though. Indicative prices probably in the $100-$150 range depending on shop/brand. http://list.qoo10.sg/item/STOCK-IN-SG-PYLE-1000W-1000-WATT/425202982 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Do buy the right sized step down transformer. Take note of the wattage of your equipment. I believe your chiller is about 800w. Need to factor +25% for equipment startup surge. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Humble FTS

Output : Feeder_timer Explanation : An output to set an On/Off state for automatic feeding at specific timing Fallback OFF If anything goes wrong, turn off auto feeding Set OFF If Time 07:00 to 07:05 Then ON Triggers feed mode at 7am. Keep in feed state for 5min If Time 20:00 to 20:05 Then ON Triggers feed mode at 8pm. Keep in feed state for 5min Output : Feeder_6_1 Explanation : Triggers the Apex Neptune AFS feeder to turn once. Fallback OFF Set OFF If Outlet Feeder_timer = ON Then ON Timing is set by Feeder_timer outlet. Defer 001:00 Then ON AFS will turn 1min after the above stated time. This allows the return pump/wavemaker to turn off & let the water settle before food is dropped If FeedA 000 Then ON Same thing if FeedA button on the ApexNeptune front panel is triggered ** Its currently not in the script but what I also do is to turn off return pump/wave maker during feed mode. To do this, insert this for output return pump (ReturnPump_5) or wavemaker (Vortech_Rt) If Outlet Feeder_timer = ON Then OFF Keeps return pump during the duration of feed event. In this case, its set to 5min

Very nice. Could you share where you got it from?