SubzeroLT

No obvious signs of stinging so far. But it'll surely inhibit growth as the anemone gets bigger. Probably need to move the SPS soon

Its a convenient place to mount the feeder. Moreover, there is a net above the tank (to prevent fishes from jumping out). Hence, its not possible to mount the auto feeder just above the tank as it obstructs the net from lifting up.

The GSP is in the study room frag tank with minimum attention. Well, I do dose Revo Reef Nutricore & Revo Reef Intense weekly. And target feed the GSP with Reef Roids once every 1-2 weeks.

Fantastic!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure of the name. Got it from Naz (Iwarna). You can contact him.

Thanks.

You are very right. Sharp indeed. Those are sunflower zoa. I think the below are eagle eyes. May have gotten them from you some time back.

FTS (1st April 2017) Haiz...just hate it when the anemone moves to the SPS.

Enjoyed the write up on cleaning the rocks. Nice set up as always:)

Some pics : Forest Fire Digi Pink Birdsnest Eagle Eye Zoa Montipora Spongodes. And another type of Forest Fire Digi (previously from Koji). Quite a fast grower. Hosting some SPS for fellow reefer....stressed. Color of SSC when it arrived last month. Managed to survive. Colored up a little. Some changes to equipment set up. My temp sensor was previously in the same compartment as the return pump/compressor coil. I moved the sensor upstream of the coil so that it measured a more representative temperature of the tank water.

Very nice!! More pics please.

There are temperature alarms available on eBay or taobao but needs some DIY modification to change the thermistor to a salt water safe type. Alternatively a more expensive option is to get an ISocket with aquarium temperature sensor. Probably in the $260 range. This however has the added feature of informing you via SMS if power or temperature is out of whack. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lovely set up. For the aluminum profile where the sump sits on, do you plan to put some profile inserts into the slots? This is to prevent stuff from accumulating in the slots over time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some calcium reactor pump issues the past weeks leading to unstable parameters with a couple of stoppages in between. Calcium dropped down to 350ppm etc. No coral deaths but can tell that colors have turned a little paler. Worn out impeller shaft : Spanking new impeller with ceramic shaft. Available from Aquamarin. Ceramic shafts are probably more suitable for the CR due to low pH & higher running temperatures. Best practice to replace the rubber washer since the pump is removed. Only $1 and peace of mind.

I find that either Algae Blenny & Starry Blenny do quite a good job in handling short hair algae. They are generally bigger & have a much better appetite than a tailspot blenny.

Maintenance weekend. Finally got some calibration fluid & calibrated the Apex pH probe. Found it drifted by A LOT. Generally for the Apex system, if you are calibrating it for calcium reactor (or freshwater planted tank), you need the pH 4 & 7. If you are calibrating it for marine tank water, you need the pH 7 & pH 10 reference solution. The Apex pH probe is about 2.3yrs old. Cross verified the reading with a handheld HM Digital pH pen & the Apex pH probe was still OK, but its probably due for replacement soon. Another thing done was to give the skimmer a thorough wash. The Nyos is fantastic as it enables the structure be dismantled entirely even beyond this pic for washing. All washed & reassembled within 20 minutes. And back to skimming stuff pretty soon.

Some things done to improve calcium reactor reliability : 1) Added a sponge to the top to prevent loose media from being sucked into the recirculating pump. I've been hit by damaged impellers despite following instructions of keeping a safe recommended media fill height to the inlet pipe. Suspect that media can get small/light enough as it melts and gets lifted by the strong flow. 2) Improve reliability of effluent flow Some adjust to a high effluent flow rate to minimize the chance of clogging. However, i also means the system needs a lot of CO2 to maintain the low pH. Personally, I try to keep it to a fast drip & reduce CO2. Some reefers who prefer a slower flow dip the tube under water to minimize exposure to air (one of the main reasons for causing the tube to clog). But the issue is that its hard to check flow rate So I combined both ideas & seem to be quite reliable. With this, i'm able to monitor the drip rate, lower CO2 bubble count & have the tube under water. Currently running around 40ml/min

Looks good!! That's a lot of rocks The rocks on the right - are those resin rocks or natural rocks?

Nice upgrade Looking forward to more pics

Lovely indeed What's next in your fish/coral list? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ATS lights run 18hrs a day. Lights off around 12pm - 6pm.

I've not checked the parameters for the past year. But since you asked, I proceeded to check Zoa tank NO3 this morning. Hovering in the 25-50ppm range

Sure...monitoring it. For reference, the original warm white lights run ~ 13W. The DIY 4 rows of light is running at 17.3W. Just harvested it to 'reset' the mesh & monitor growth. With the white lights, the cadence of cleaning was about 2-3 weeks. Pic below shows 2.5 wks since last cleaning.

Nice!. You should list the zoa name next to the pics as your collection will be a good reference for many of us.

Nice collection of clams! Giga next eh?