SubzeroLT

Could you share more about this?

Thanks Some pic updates : Candy Cane & Duncans Getting quite crowded Digi losing the 'battle' here. Setosa frag from Jon (LCF425) from some time back..... (Thanks)

Nice pics! Have you decided on the sand?

Sounds interesting. What's the approx running cost (i.e. usage rate & cost of soda lime)?

Several baby Banggai Cardinals (~0.5cm) were spotted in the tank but think they were eaten by the larger fishes There was no way to trap/catch the parents when the father was spotted carrying the babies in its mouth. Got a long spine urchin. They are supposed to provide some cover for the baby banggai cardinals....hopefully... for the next batch. Got the Amazon Echo devices recently. For reefing, the voice control is quite handy for switching on/off utility pumps (for topping up containers), setting 3 minute timers to test nitrates etc. Alexa is also able to capture, over voice, parameter readings & automatically load it to Evernote for reference -

Very nice!!

Which lens are you using with the DIY viewing pot? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Lovely!!

A nice frag from PCW. Thanks Pearlberry from RR Derasa clam from Iwarna shipment about 2 weeks back Anemone split again. Hope they won't move around too much.

One of the rock flower anemone moved, dug into the sand & attached itself to the glass bottom. I removed it from that spot & now it refuses to attach to a rock base. And keeps floating away for the past days. Not a good thing before I need to be away for work travel. I was planning to do some rock rescaping soon anyway, so I got some Nyos reef cement to build a small structure to 'contain' the anemone Instructions say mix 1 part water to 3 part reef cement to make a paste. The paste feels slightly warm (exothermic process) - a sign that new bonds are formed. It really hardens in 2-3 minutes, so work fast. The rock assembly was put in the tank after 15 minutes. This was the structure made for the rock flower anemone, with a temporary acrylic top until it settles in. Yellow arrows are the 3 pieces of rock put together. The final cement color is grayish & blends with the color of the new rocks added.

FTS for mid July

Thanks. Hope it can be a useful rough guide.

Several folks asked about my CR settings the past few days. Pictures speak a thousand words, so here it is. CO2 Bubble Count : Effluent Drip rate : The effluent measures at 66.1g water per minute Effluent measured at 30.8dKH with salifert test kit Tank KH maintained around the 7.7-8dKH levels. CR pH levels (week view) CR pH level (1 day view). CO2 on hours shown in chart.

Both the sea cucumber & abalone occasionally wander over the wavemaker but no issues so far. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It probably increases KH slightly but not that much. My parameters : Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The kalk dosing regime seems to be quite reliable. No issues so far. And SPS growth seems to be picking up. Probably need to top up the kalk once a month. I'm not sure if replacing the kalk is required. Status wise, pH now hovers between 8.03 to 8.23 now. The minimum was in the 7.85-7.9 range prior to dosing kalk. Kalk stirrer in action.

I've been using them since February and the balls from different 'batches' reduce to about the same size. Will they fully dissolve? So I should not use the term 'depleted'. Will monitor over the next many months.

Some recent macro pics : Rock Flower Anemone : Pocci Yellow Feather Duster. Forest Fire Digi. The green base colors coming back after trying a new amino acid Have been trying the Polyplab Colors concentrated amino acid recently. Its very concentrated - that's a good thing as you are buying the real deal instead of a diluted product. 1 drop per 250 gallon (950L). Though my system is roughly 1000L, I don't dose the full dose as my tank is not ULNS. I just dilute it with RODI in a container & dose half the amount. Also been trying the Fauna Marin Bakto Balls. This is how a new ball compares with a depleted one. I suppose the gel ball is saturated with enzyme and/or bacteria which is slowly released. Time to discard some of the old ones? Cut one up a used one to see what's its like. Solid gel ball. Not hollow.

Fingers crossed. Green monti are generally quite hardy. Anyway, if you need help with your Prime light setting, just drop me a PM.

The cup volume is 1.25L which is large enough for 1 week if skimming medium to dry. In any case, I usually drain it to a bucket with a float sensor. Power to the skimmer is cut off when the bucket is 3/4 full & the Apex app sends me a notification. I empty the bucket every 2 weeks on water change day. Wash the cup probably once a month.

You can DIY one with fine netting & aluminum profile. My previous tank was braceless & you just need to make the size the aluminum profileto sit on the edges. Aluminum profile - get from prestech.com.sg Netting - Can get the thicker clear type from https://aquariumoverload.com/pages/clear-mesh-aquarium-tops Alternatively, the type i'm using is a very fine black one which i think works better than a thick clear type. I have some spare to that I can sell. Can PM me if keen.

Would like to assist you here. A couple of queries - What are your settings like? Any screen shot of it? And what's your tank size? Pic of your tank to see the rock work & coral placement Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Changed to a shorter reactor to allow the slurry reach closer to the water outlet. This is what it looks like after a 1.5min stir. Kalk is dosed after giving more time for the sediments to settle. With the Apex, it was easy to program to dose kalk only when the pH was on the decreasing trend. For the past week, the overall pH has gone up a little & observed reduced pH swings. Someone asked me recently about the Nyos 220 skimmer. I can only say it pulls out a lot of crap and give peace of mind to feed freely. Very happy with it.

That's odd. Any pH probes are supposed to work as mentioned by a seasoned user in the Apex user forum.

I think it really depends on the rock scape as well. If wavemakers are placed at opposite ends facing each other, there will be a point with zero velocity. Hence by changing the flow pattern of each wavemaker will eliminate the duration of this 'dead zone'. You have the reeflink set up right?