SubzeroLT

Agree with he. However, do note that not all probes are of the same quality. Many cheap unbranded ones found online will not last long. I got a $10 from eBay & it lasted a month - started to drift. Related to quality of the electrodes & adhesive/seals. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mostly fishes. They do have zoanthids, yuma, mushrooms & sea fans. There is a quarantine room at the far end of the building where you need to be escorted in for viewing. Could this be where the misunderstanding arise?

Its a great place to visit & purchase live stock. Especially for fishes & invertebrates. No idea where the comment about "not for viewing" came from.

Thanks.

Can get from the usual places : ReefmarketSG, Madpetz, Pinnacle, DE Aquatic or Iwarna. I understand price is the same at all places.

Playing around the DD Coral Color. A very handy kit for taking coral pics under very bluish LED light - something impossible to be done with mobile phones previously. Multi lens stacked. The Close Up lens is fantastic for allowing the phone to focus much closer to the object Pics taken with iPhone outside the tank under 20k light.

No issues with the emerald crabs. In my case, they may appear to nip on LPS but are actually targeting at the algae on the LPS bone. How serious was your situation? Caught it in action? Was the torch healthy or not doing so well in the 1st place?

For rocks, a recommendation is to start with dead rocks (bleached & cleaned) or with good quality artificial rocks. Avoids the live rock risk of pests like bobbit worms & crabs. Do consider warranty support for your lights. Any equipment can spoil & its important to have quick local support. AI Hydra or Radions are good lights & well supported locally. You'll probably need to add wavemaker to the list.

You can consider Maxpect BioSphere bio media. Google it for more information. Its way cheaper than Siporax & more lasting than Biohome. In fact, you can start cycling the bio media right now - Just need a large bucket or tub + small pump to circulate the water. Can be done before your tank arrives. This can help build up the beneficial bacteria population on the media.

These are good as they don't have a metal zipper.

Just measure your PO4 again to be sure. Dosing Vinegar or Vodka or RedSea NoPox works for sure. You should see results within 2 weeks. - Make sure PO4 is not zero. For example, Redsea NoPox recommends that phosphate absorbing media (eg GFO) be removed temporarily if your PO4 levels are very close to 0 or let's say close to ideal 0.03ppm levels. - Make sure you have a good skimmer to remove the excess bacteria. That's how the 'nitrate/phosphate export' works where the carbon promotes growth of bacteria. The bacteria "consumes" nitrates & phosphates to form itself. If your skimmer is not powerful enough or skimming too dry, then the extra bacteria produced remains in the water column. You can try to tune the skimmer to skim 'wetter' like 1/2 - 1 cup a day. - And if you are confident, just increase the vinegar dose more aggressively. And thanks Samuel88 for starting this topic. Good topic for healthy discussion.

They look like Pineapple Sponge. Beneficial filter feeders. Google for images

Your tank is about 400L = 100 gallons. The link from Sherman showed a table showing the incremental dosing amounts. That's a good guide.

Thanks for the reminder. Need to dip corals even if it’s from good friends or reputable reefers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My black sea cucumber split. Quite interesting. I've heard of tiger tail sea cucumbers splitting but not this particular black species. Thanks Alex for searching on the topic - its indeed capable of asexual reproduction. Looks pinched in the middle. Pic taken this morning Extracted from : http://bioweb.uwlax.edu/bio203/…/moede_marl/reproduction.htm Asexual reproduction in these species is performed through the process of transverse fission. In most sea cucumber species capable of asexually reproducing, a method is used where the organism’s anterior and posterior end rotate in opposite directions. After a while, the two ends slowly move in different directions, eventually causing the body wall to tear and split the organism into two separate individuals. However, Stichopus chloronotus uses a different method of transverse fission in order to divide itself. More specifically, the organism starts by creating a constriction in the center of its body. While the posterior region of its body stays stati onary the anterior end begins to move forward. This results in a more intense constriction in the center of the body. As the anterior end moves further away from the posterior, the constriction in the center, or fission site, begins to turn in to almost nothing but a fluid like substance. Following this, the two halves separate with ease. Based on a study, this entire process only takes a few minutes. Following the fission, it takes around a day for the tissue at the fission site to heal. The body wall of Stichopus chloronotus is often referred to as “catch connective tissue” and it is very thin and fluid-like. It is believed that this tissue is the reason why it is possible for Stichopus chloronotus to undergo transverse fission with more ease than other species capable of the phenomenon. Furthermore, it is thought that this tissue also helps with the speedy recovery that Stichopus chloronotus is capable of after fission has occurred. Transverse fission usually occurs during cool portions of the year (around June in the Indo-Pacific region) and it is also thought that it mainly takes place a night. Twisted It had already split when I got back from work this evening. As the article mentioned, the anterior portion makes the movements. Posterior portion stays put. And it usually happens in June (its June!) This is an old picture of the sea cucumber. Purchased in Nov 2014 for my previous 3ft tank. A workhorse trying to clear diatoms. A losing battle back then.

I don't have a display module on my Apex & rely on my mobile app. Installed a small red LED at the tank for visual notification if any of the alarms are triggered. Useful as a notification for family members as well. I ordered a blinking LED but it does not blink. Oh well.... Triggers are : 1) Leak sensors placed around the sump & outside the cabinet 2) Empty CO2 tank or calcium reactor effluent clogged 3) ATO reservoir empty 4) Chiller issues - Temperature too warm or too cold. 5) Skimmate/Alkatronic waste collection bucket (15L) full

Got a new bottle of Selcon last week. Good for re-hydrating dried pellets. Adds Omega-3 Fatty Acids, Vitamin C and B12 supposedly beneficial to overall fish health & immune system. Mushrooms Pic of the anemone basket. Selling some to a reefer tonight Looking for other colors. Keen to trade if you have any.

Nice scape. Look forward to more pics!!

Yes, some folks talked about 'flushing' with vinegar perhaps annually. Personally I've not flushed my chillers as I don't find it necessary. Cleaning the air filters is more important. Perhaps others can chime in.

Chillers are simple sealed mechanisms that need very little or no maintenance for years (just like our home refrigerators). Clean the air filter mesh occasionally is sufficient (eg. monthly?) This is to ensure good flow of air for heat exchange.

Picked up the Alkatronic pump upgrade kit a couple of days back. Its great that the Alkatronic company & distributor provide good support to early customers like me. Pump kit was FOC. The replacement process was simple with very clear instructions. All done. Very silent now

Sure

I agree that KH of 8-9 works well for mixed reef. I'm running roughly around 8-8.3 most of the time for my tank. Most reefers switch to powder additives after some time as the corals grow & demand picks up. Your Mg depletion looks normal too.

The Alkatronic has been very helpful for me. Good decision to get one!

Did a weekday water change tonight. Snapped a couple of quick pictures with the shallow waters & wavemakers off. Bubble Tip Anemone Lime in the Sky