SubzeroLT

Received a request about my Nero 5 settings. So here it is : General view of the day's setting : Daytime setting : Evening setting : Night setting : Not much tank updates. Made some silly error of having low salinity at 31ppt (1.023SG) for about 3 weeks. Corals slightly affected & recovering now. Helping a fellow reefer host a chalice. Hope it colors up in a few months' time.

Mine was re-purposed from my old vacuum cleaner & DIY installation. But i know you can get the right sized ones from ReefmarketSG. Prices should be reasonable.

That's reputed to be a reliable CR though it seems to take up a lot of real estate for the media volume. Good idea to put a drip tray below.

This float switch doesn't 'float' so well anymore. No time to replace, it so I just added a piece of foam around it for the moment. Added a lot more Maxpect Biospere. Rinse in RODI water to get rid of the fine dust & bits. A nice touch of them providing plastic zippers. No fear of metals leaching into the water. There is a good sale happening now. Adding a 2nd Nero 5 Re-arranged the reactors & making way for a larger calcium reactor from a friendly reefer (you know who you are ) Soap bubble test to check for leaks must always be done after replacing the CO2 tank. Someone asked about the Clarisea connection last week. Here are some pics. Attachment from the pipe to the flexible hose

PMed you

Sad to hear about the fish situation. I really wonder if there are ways to prevent it. Feed some supplements to boost immunity or provide the necessary pro-biotic bacteria needed?

Lights are about 30cm from water surface. PAR measurements showed it’s about 500 at top rocks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes its possible. Just need to be creative with the piping. Its not difficult.

This is a flap on the clarisea to open up so it 'bypasses' the fleece. A bit hard to take a pic of the connections now. But conceptually, this is the 'adapter' added to the end of the original pipe from display tank to adapt to a flexible hose that connects to the clarisea.

Notice its turning yellow when viewed in whiter light The light pink one was residing under the rock. Pried it out with a knife & placed it back to the top. Precious new frag The light setting I've been running the past 1.5 months. A true workhorse.....time for a good vinegar soak.

Nice catching up with you yesterday. Since there aren't too many corals at the moment, my suggestion would be to set up some egg crates in the tank to place your SPS frags (instead of gluing them down onto the rocks) and take them out to dip every week for the next 3-4 weeks to get rid of the aefw. And get some wrasses as well.

I have. Pass to you on Wednesday Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Stocked up on some supplies. Took the Nero out for a quick wash after a month of use. So easy to take out to remove from tank & disassemble. Some random pics from the weekend Bought from fellow reefer Alloy a couple of months back : Frag from fellow reefer from a few months back. Picking up some color. The Skimz CM122 running at pH 6.1 - 6.15 for 24hrs is just just marginally unable to keep up with tank demand. Need to manually dose KH, Ca & Mg. But doing it weekly. Time to get a larger calcium reactor.

You can place them in a small isolation box with a rock in it. And place the entire thing on the sand bed. In time, it'll attach to the rock during the process. Hikari Reef Pulse is a mix of phyto/zooplakton up to 0.005 - 0.4mm in size. That's more suitable for SPS/LPS. Probably not so useful for carnivorous predators like the anemone.

Saw many tiny ones at Iwarna last weekend Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If the anemone is bleached, the usual process is to place in lower light conditions (eg on sand bed / around 200 PAR) and let it recover slowly. In time, it should start eating. Depending on the anemone type. Like the popular RBTA takes about 6 months to grow from 2" diameter to about open palm size.

Biopellets should be effective. Route the exit hose of the biopellet reactor to be placed right in front of the skimmer so that all of the slime gets siphoned (exported) away & not be left in the water column.

Water parameters did improve a little. Conceptually, you are moving the dirt out of the water 'immediately' instead of letting it decay on the wool. How high high is your nitrate? It will make some difference but at the same time, don't expect a miracle about nitrate reduction with filter mat systems.

I was using filter wool previously. That needed to be changed every 3 days before it clogged up. The convenience of using the roller mat far outweighs the cost. The replacement fleece for the Clarisea is $35 (lasts 2-3 months). Water is clear since it uses a 25 micron filter. Compared with wools or socks which are in the 200-400 micron pore size range. I do let about 30% of water bypass the Clarisea simply because we don't need to over filter the system. This also helps extend the filter life. Over time, they will ultimately be picked up by the roller mat's 25 micron media. I feed my tank quite heavily with fresh prawn/fish meat daily. Nitrates are running around 5ppm which is still OK.

Generally 6-8hrs of strong light is sufficient for anemone. Try feeding around the time when the lights come on (before/after is OK). To prevent fishes from getting to the food of your anemone, consider covering it. Such covers are available online or perhaps some LFS also carry it. (sample pic below taken from online source)

Took advantage of the roll change to add a union to the pipe. Its now possible to cable tie the flexible hose to the upper portion. The last roll lasted 3 months (changed 29th July 18) Other random snaps : Glad to see the 2 sea cucumbers moving around the tank together today. Recall getting it back in Dec 2014 when folks told me "its good for clearing diatoms". The reality is that it moves too slow to be of any use. It split in June this year and remained in one spot for more than a month. Finally moving around quite actively now. Starry Blenny Red Scooter Blenny Supersun

In general anemone need relatively high light. In the 300 - 400+ PAR range is good (this is equivalent to SPS lighting levels). Total lighting hours also need to be factored in, else too long hours even at lower light levels can cause bleaching. Anemone can survive in 150+ PAR range (eg sand bed) but the bubble tips won't be so nice. They will look amazing in higher light. Other signs of a stressed anemone - wont eat, won't attach to rock or keeps moving to a dark place to hide in the dark.

For 40cm tank, try a short pulse in the 0.4 - 0.6s range. Nero uses something called Bluetooth LE (low energy) so that the connection is almost instant.

Nice write up. For standing waves, the formula is v = f x λ. For 3ft tank its about 0.9s pulse & interval. 4ft is about 1.2s etc. Try starting with those number & increase or decrease bit by bit. The final number will be affected by your rock scape & flow contributed by other sources.

Coralline algae getting out of hand Killed several heads of the supersun as it grows over the polyps Time to get a tuxedo urchin New addition from Madpetz Messy colors