SubzeroLT

Seeking some advice. I have a bubble coral that's with me for 2 weeks. It looks quite full when the lights are off But when the lights come on, it seems to shrivel up. Bubble is placed at the far back corner of the tank with the least flow & light. I've seen the bubble spit out brown stuff. Does it mean that my light levels are too high? I've now put a netting above the coral to provide additional shade to see how it progresses. Water parameters : Ammonia : 0ppm Nitrite: 0ppm Nitrate : 0.2ppm Phosphate : <0.03 Mg : 1350ppm Ca : 410ppm KH : 8.9 PH : 6.4 SG : 1.025 Dosing regime : TLF C-Balance 15ml -20ml per day TLF Sea Elements 1x per week Brightwell Microbacter7 : 2 drops per day Brightwell ReefBio Fuel : 2.5cc per day Lighting regime: Maxpect Razor - 6am - 8am : Ch A : 0, Ch B : 5% - Lights out 8am - 3pm - 3pm : ChA : 0%, Ch B : 5% - 3.30pm : Ch A : 50%, Ch B : 55% - 9.30pm : Ch A : 55%, Ch B : 65% => About 6hrs of white light - 10pm to 12am : Ch A : 0, Ch B : 20% - Lights out 12am - 6am Feeding regime : For Scarlet Skink cleaner shrimp & goby : Frozen market shrimp or mysis shrimp 1x per day For LPS : Frozen mysis shrimp or Continum Zooblast 2-3x per week For SPS : Reef Nutrition Oyster Feast 2-3x per week Seeking inputs on the above regime. Aside from the bubble, everything else is doing great. Here are a couple of new additions. Red Zoanthids? Acans from a fellow reefer : Mandarin from a fellow reefer. Enjoying the colony of tigger pods. FTS :

Thanks. This is a good rough reference.

I saw your previous post of adding 2x T5 to your 10k Maxpect Razor. What were your lighting intensity & hours like? If its a Maxpect Razor 16k, which type of T5 would you add for good SPS growth & to make the colors pop? Just blue+?

Then the height of the glass between the skimmer & return pump section will be the height of your water that your skimmer is placed in.

What is your sump design like? In most sumps, the 'skimmer section' would have a glass panel that separates it from the other section. This would typically be the sump/skimmer water level.

My clown pair developed brooklynella . One was worse than the other. Realized it only a few days later that it was brooklynella I did a freshwater dip for the one that was in bad shape for 1 minute as a temporary workaround. Could see it breathing slightly better. The next day, I went to buy Interpet #7 (Slime & Velvet) at Polyart. This medication contains copper. It also contains formalin which is supposedly effective against brooklynella. Its been one week already. Both are still alive & recovering in a small tank. Feeding with New Life Spectrum Thera A pellets.

Looks like brooklynella. White film & discoloration. Are you planning to medicate?

Good idea to use ammonium carbonate (baker's ammonia) to cycle the tank. How much did you put initially? I understand that the rule of thumb is 1 teaspoon per 200L to get about 5ppm of ammonia.

Great tips, Andtsg. For simple digital timer, this is a good link http://list.qoo10.sg/item/DIGITAL-LCD-DAY-TIME-ELECTRONIC/406096784 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it still persists, as a temporary measure, perform more frequent water change to take out the ammonia. Another option is to use Prodibio Ammonia Stop (another temporary measure)

If forced to choose one, i'd say Skimmer is higher priority. I have a 3ft tank & using Skimz SM201 oval skimmer.

C328 or most freshwater LFS sell clear acrylic tubes that is of the same dimension as the balloon stick for around $2-$3. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Madpetz has a new shipment of reef nutrition tigger pods that arrived yesterday. Very fresh & alive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You will typically need to engage a professional engineer (PE) to certify such matters. Not every building is the same. Hence a 6x5x3ft tank in one building may not be safe in another. If its a very heavy load, the engineer can advise to locate it in a location where there is a structural beam across. It may not be safe its just cement below it. Even if you are on the ground floor of a condo, it still needs to be consulted if there could be a basement car park below.

Love the aquascape & clean sand.

A course mesh from Daiso can be used as a screen in the sump to minimize strands from escaping the refugium. For me, I started with a fistful sized chaeto. It doubled in 2 weeks.

Mine is ~ 200L including sump. I dose 5ml daily for now since its a new tank & nitrates is high. Currently hovering around 5ppm. Will reduce dose once it hits ideal levels. One thing I don't understand in the instructions is "Do not add to pump intake port(s)". What does this mean? And why not? Does it mean don't add close to the return pump?

Mellow, was the dosing tube clogged which got unclogged when you intervened? Are your tubes submerged under water? I read that the ends of dosing tubes tend to encrust when it contacts seawater.

Nice clowns!!

Crocea clam from Aquarist Chamber. Placed it on the rocks so it'll receive more intense lighting. Open Brain And equipment wise, I glued some scrap acrylic to make a mount for the dosing pump.

Was at Pacific Reef looking for clean up crew & came across a bag with a Diamond Watchman Goby & a Candy Stripe Randalls Pistol shrimp. They started burrowing in the back corner of the tank. Figured I should grab a couple of shots before they disappear under the rocks later on. Pick Bubble Tip Anemone hosting a White Spot Anemone Shrimp

Looking forward to updates. I'm keen to know how you are mounting the T5 with the Razor.

What kind of 2 pin is it? Some of the Euro 2 pin can actually be earthed if the right adapter is used.

Even though you are using RO/DI, you probably still have phosphates in the water column. Have you checked the levels? Phosphates are generated from decomposition of organic matter, so I don't think it'll improve by cultivating more bacteria.

I placed the new life stock in a small plastic container placed in main display tank (to acclimatize temperature). Just in case I forget to check on the drip, I didn't want this container to overflow & getting the LFS water into my tank - hence the mineral bottle with a fixed amount of tank water.