SubzeroLT

Sump - go as big as it can fit your cabinet. Chiller - you can start with your current 1/10HP Artica chiller if it has served your well for your FW tank. The sump will add an incremental 40L or so. Decide later if you need to upsize the chiller. ATO - Best one i've seen is Tunze Osmolator Universal 3155. A good cheaper option is JBJ ATO RO/DI - Can get from Madpetz. This is a popular model. http://www.madpetz.com.sg//index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=&products_id=91

Welcome to the salty side. I was previously into freshwater planted tank of the exact same dimension & converted it to saltwater with overflow & sump. You can refer to my earlier thread of the conversion process & equipment used. That could answer some of your queries. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/topic/128995-my-slice-of-nature/

Glad to be able to share. And also hope to get feedback to learn something new as well.

For small glass tank projects, you can look for Atlantic Glass located at upper serangoon road. Many folks here have made their small tanks/sumps there. Any reason why you need it in glass? A 10L opaque white container does not look too bad. $10.90 http://www.madpetz.com.sg//index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=&products_id=416 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some recent DIY. I had this float switch in the display tank to turn off the return pump in case it overflows. However, occasionally over the months, snails crawl around the area & trigger the float switch instead. Found a small 'filter inlet' from C328 & modified it as a 'cage' around the float switch. Another recent DIY with acrylic. Made a 'clear' Apogee PAR sensor holder.

I believe this is also called a female blue star leopard wrasse. Last seen at New Trios shipment a couple of months back. Would be keen to know if AM has this too.

A fellow reefer asked for more information on how i made the float switch holder. I'll share it here. - Slip the cable through the clear acrylic rod (artfriend) - Fit the threaded area of the float switch into the acrylic rod (either glue or wrap with white tape) - Set height of the float switch with a standard probe holder available at LFS

Congratulations. Lovely tank indeed.

As i said before...plenty of space available All corals look v healthy. Impressive!

Wow...very nice indeed.

Lovely pictures indeed

Regarding sand. I assume you are referring to Caribsea live sand. In my opinion, its not a must but there are some advantages - Take advantage that Caribsea offers nice colors & substrates (eg. Fiji pink, Hawaiian black, extra fine) - No need to wash (though washing regular sand is simple) - Supposed to be 'live'. Some amount of bacteria inside (though you can easily dose bacteria separately)

Awesome!!

Sure.....whoever needs help to take PAR measurement, just send me a PM.

The monti collection is outstanding. Especially the Jedi Mindtrick & Superman

Even nicer collection now. What lights are you using?

Another place with AI light locally is Madpetz. I've had lights issues in the past & AI local warranty support has been fantastic. You can see a demo unit of the Hydra26 HD at Madpetz. I'm waiting for it to be available locally in Nov.

Thanks... Photos are straight out from camera. No photoshop editing.

Some pics from today : Golden cloves' polyps seem to lengthen considerably under higher light. Started to use Revoreef Intense supplement the past couple of weeks. Quite happy with the results & colors. Valida. It was all pale when I first got it. Nicely colored up Pink Milli Maxima Sulphur reactor update : Running OK so far. Managed to bring NO3 down to 2ppm even with regular frozen mysis shrimp feeding. Apparently, the nitrate reactor needs to be 'fed' with bacteria on a regular basis. I added a small tube at the water inlet at the bottom of the reactor. Bacteria is added into the reactor with a syringe. This seems to work - a 'reaction' can be observed from the ORP meter (change from -150mv to -190mv)

Thanks for the tip. Yeah...it really takes the guess work out of light setting & coral placement.

Helped Lawrence measure his set up with the PAR meter. With his current peak settings, this was obtained : - Appears to be generally on the low side. LPS should ideally be in the 150 - 250 PAR levels for good growth - We then increased the maxpect razor settings & able to move almost all the positions to within recommended zone. i.e. 150 PAR (sand bed) - 250 PAR (upper portions of the rock). - All the best

Seen the tank in person....very impressive indeed. What's your dosing regime like? (eg. color elements & strontium)

Measured PAR recently with an Apogee MQ200 quantum sensor. Its clearly under-lit in some areas. This explains why some SPS aren't doing so well. Should have gotten 2x Hydra 52 instead of Hydra26.

I did more reading up after your reply. It appears there is a risk hydrogen sulfide entering the water column if the reactor goes into the anaerobic mode (ORP less than -300mv). Hopefully this can be prevented using an ORP sensor to monitor it. As a safeguard, I'm now passing the effluent through rowaphos just in case - this will covert hydrogen sulfide into elemental sulphur (reef safe). Thanks for the tip off.

I think it's alright to get it oversized as i don't plan to switch it on all the time. I've just started to use the Hydra Stream.....still trying characterize the effects.