SubzeroLT

Starting a new thread to document the progress of a new set up. Tank was given by a nice reefer (thanks!!). In return, I bought over his equipment. Its a nice sized tank - 5 x 2.5 x 2, 15mm glass, chengal wood stand. The physical condition of the tank wasn't great and took it as part of the fun to fix it during free time on the weekends. Some pictures : Upon closer inspection, there are several large patches of scratches in the middle (viewing area) Ordered some Cerium Oxide - a compound commonly used in the industry to polish glass Mix into a paste Marked the areas with bad scratches with masking tape Climbed into the tank & polished out the scratches. I'd say 90% of the bad scratches are gone. I didn't bother to remove the scratches from areas which were not easily seen.

Primary purpose of the lights is to provide energy for the corals to photosynthesize. During cycling, its absolutely not necessary to switch on the lights.

Bacteria can be purchased - many brands out there. Continum Microbacter 7, Aquaforest ProbioS, prodibio just to name a few. These will help seed the bacteria population. The market prawn is to create organic waste & provide ammonia to feed the bacteria so that its population increase. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure which model you are using. My understanding is that an industrial resin housing containing ~ 8L of resin has the following specs : 8L / minute , 700L+ capacity (@ 250ppm) before resin is depleted. Assume SGP water is cleaner, it can last longer.

Never tried 'lemon juice' before. Need to read up more. But i'll probably leave it at the moment until it grows too large.

Headache.... Anemone splits & decided to travel 3ft across the tank & lodge itself among the SPS.

For sharing, this is my setup with 2x Hydra26 (3x1.5x1.5). For 322, i agree with the suggestions provided earlier - i.e. 1 to 2 units Hydra 52 depending on your scape.

Yeah. Great for LPS as well. I like it because the pods are about 2mm. Fishes can see it clearly & tend to go for it better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got this recently after reading good reviews of it. Fishes love it. From what i read, 'The secret of Nyos Goldpods is in the top quality raw material. The fresh-caught copepods are processed by a special method developed at a Norwegian University. This patent-pending method deactivates autolytic enzymes that would further disintegrate valuable substances such as fatty acids and proteins' This explains why there is no need to refrigerate the bottle. Just keep in a cool place will do. Because its suspended in a light gel & does not need refrigeration, its possible to auto dose it.

Tank preparation is in progress & purchasing equipment at the moment. Will share some pictures soon.

Nice setup! Look forward to updates. I noticed that the return pump is in the same compartment as the skimmer. This means that the water level may not be consistent => skimmer performance may vary. It may over skim if water level is higher, underskim if too low. Hence, an auto top up system is probably required.

I've decided to stick with the sulfur reactor instead of biopellets after having better success with it. Drip rate is shown below and able to keep nitrates between 2-5ppm. The reactor running at about 0.5% volume. I suppose it'll be better if i had more sulfur media in the reactor. Anyway, its good enough for now. Water change once every 2 weeks but i dose trace elements, iodide, potassium & iodide in between. Some random photos from this evening. Got this red monti from reefer Evolutionz some time back. Grew from 1" diameter. One of the 2 bandit crabs in the valida colony

Nice set up you have there. Look forward to updates! BTW, what's with the canister filter?

Lovely!! Must see it in person one of these days.

Sorry, i do not know of any silicone that you can be used within few hours. A common aquarium safe one is 'Selleys window and glass sealant'. As mentioned by Tuajia, most are acetic cure sealants & need about 48 hours for it to release all the acid. You also need to select one that does not have fungicide and should not be paintable.

Yes. Cut to exact size you want Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can get glass panels from Atlantic Glass (@ Serangoon). Its typically around $10

Not from Singapore...but i saw this in another forum recently. Someone with a huge tank doing some rock rescaping. I can imagine Larry doing this.

Very nice project. Looking forward to more updates!!

What part are you looking for? The ceramic bushing on the non-propeller end? You can try Aquamarin.

Alex, how do you manage your rotifer water in the pail? Do you change it regularly? Do you wipe down the sides to get rid of the slime?

Do use with caution. Hydrogen peroxide is quite potent.

I mentioned earlier about Bryopsis growing in the tank. It grew like crazy after being away on 2 separate overseas trip. It got out of hand & grew between zoanthids, on the shell of my maxima clam & grew so tall to block light from the SPS frags. Used Hydrogen peroxide to clear them slowly over a one week period. Did 1 rock every alternate day. Not all at one go. Removed all corals from each large rock & dripped hydrogen peroxide onto it externally. This was one of the reasons why i didn't epoxy the rocks together - to have the option of taking rocks out for such drastic action One particular rock had an un-removable Maxima clam & colony of True Rasta. Here are some pics of the process : Diluted the H2O2 to about 5% concentration Pulled out as much hair algae / bryopsis manually as possible. Good time to scrape away the bubble algae. That's a clam submerged in the tub of water. Dripped H2O2 onto the rock, clam. You can see the algae bubbling away. Good riddance. There were several patches on rocks in the tank that could not be removed. Stopping all the pumps, some hydrogen peroxide were injected directly onto the bryopsis. Being cautious, max 5ml only. No casualty. Clam is so clean now. 100% of zoanthids opened after 3 days. And all bryopsis cleared

I assume Nitrate reactor refers to biopellet. Generally, these need much higher flow than Phosphate reactors (eg Rowa). The suggestions above makes sense. Another option is to connect in series but with a T off & valve in between the 2 reactors. The valve allows some water to return back to tank & a lower flow to the 2nd reactor. Pump -> Nitrate reactor -> T joint/valve (to output some flow to sump) --> Phosphate reactor -> Output to sump

Overflow - IMO, either Herbie, Durso or Bean Animal are quite similar. There are subtle differences & safety factors. Having the water level just below the weir will reduce water sound in the overflow. Any system that has a siphon drain running will be able to pull a lot of water effectively. As you say, draining it under water in the sump will help reduce the splashing sound. Calcium Reactor - Yours is a large tank & likely to use an external calcium reactor. Wavemaker - I agree, MP40 is nice. You can consider adding on the ReefLink module for added features like feed mode & different profiles/power along the day. This also helps randomize flow. RODI - You may need to get a booster pump to maximize the output of the RODI unit. Which return pump are you getting?