SubzeroLT

That's should be a 40mm to 30mm reducer. The black hose is a wet/dry vacuum cleaner hose. Mine was from my old shopvac which has a 32mm internal diameter. Should be able to find them online or from hardware shops.

Thanks for sharing. .... The report is saying there are other contributors to aluminium (eg. salt mix, food, phosphate media, etc). And that systems using marine pure actually reduces aluminium.

Its rumored that Marine Pure (though its a very good bio media), can leach small amounts of aluminum. Its mentioned in some overseas forums. Not seen controlled analysis about it though. Aluminum can be introduced by using aluminum based products like Seachem phosguard. John Guest quick fittings have aluminum clips that can also leach aluminum over time. Toxic levels of aluminum that cause death are ~ 10ppm = 10000 ug/L. Most reports on aluminum are at very high level exposure (eg. death, growth inhibition, cancer). Don't see any reports on exposure levels we typically see in our reef tanks. But i'd assume there should be 'some' effect. My ICP test shows 180 ug/L. Upper specs for sea water is 10ug/L. Corals are growing fine but its still 18x over NSW levels. Note again that toxic levels are 10000ug/L Being paranoid, I took out all aluminum contributors (clips & MP media) and changed to Maxpect Bio Sphere. Got mine from ReefmarketSG.

Its been one full year running the Alkatronic. It has mitigated potential disasters (several times), allowed me to travel overseas with peach of mind and helped keep the tank in relatively good condition. Its one of the best purchases to date. The price tag appears expensive at first but isn't at all in the whole scheme of things. . The unit is placed on a table next to the display tank. Test reagent is placed in a stable water bottle next to the unit. About 1.2L volume is mixed each time using the "weight" method. It used to run 6 tests per day in the initial few months but I've scaled that back to 4 tests per day. Waste waster is dumped into a waste bucket. A 5L container of KH solution (using Nyos Alkalinity powder) is used to dose KH if triggered. This is the amount of concentrated reagent left after 1 full year. Hence, the running cost is actually quite economical. I've been a little behind on calibrating the pH probe & pumps. Ideally that should be done to be sure its "spot on" accurate. But its ok to be a little off since stability is probably more important than accuracy. I measure Ca & Mg once every 2-4 weeks with Salifert test kits. So far, both Ca & Mg is always in range as long as the KH is maintained (because they have been dosed in the correct proportions via a calcium reactor) Aside from dosing KH when its out of spec, below is an example where the Alkatronic can provide feedback on tuning the calcium reactor. Time to tune it up!

Some coral pics : Ironman Blasto Fiji Pipe Organ New addition. Wife says the cynarina is not nice Friend's scoly in the tank Chalice growing quite well Chalice having a meal of prawn meat last night Close up Yuma stilled "jailed" in its container. Rhodactis from SAS.

Yes. But MP's contribution to aluminum is unclear since its not a controlled set up.

Some folks have complained about Ecotech Reeflink & difficulties with connecting to ecosmartlive. Some have commented its related to the ISP (internet service provider) blocking the server which is probably untrue. Personally, this worked for me. If you can't get the blue light even after powering off/on the Reeflink, try rebooting your router and the ONT (Optical Network Terminal). Works for me. Topping up the kalk reactor. This was originally from Larry (Thanks). The coral feeding tube tends to get food stuck in inside. Best way to clean it is to stuff a small piece of sponge & push it through with a plastic filament. Mine is from a spool of 3D printing media. Nitrates creeping up a little. Set up a biopellet reactor (FR45 + NP Biopellets). Tuned up the Vectra S1 to about 85% power

Seen the tank in person and definitely doing well. Do share some videos This is a good thread for reference for handling the elements (rain, UV from sunlight etc).

That's a good list from Snoopyburger. The next level of easy LPS are hammers & torch. If you get these, try to get branching type instead of the 'wall' variant. Branching ones are more forgiving & one is able to cut off sick parts if that happens.

Nice set up. Look forward to more updates.

There is much chatter (though not 100% proven) that marine pure contributes aluminum. I removed them as a precautionary measure since the Maxpect spheres are not that expensive. Other things done is to remove anything with aluminum bits (eg. John Guest quick fittings)

All my MP blocks/spheres & 2 bags of Bacteria King are removed & replaced with Maxspect bio sphere. I still have a couple of bags of Bacteria King media in there. Intend to leave them there since they should be OK.

Its works better than my initial impression of the product. The 2L one has enough space to place a loosely packed bag of heavy metal removal resin too.

Finally the Nyos Torq is here. Its such an innovative design that makes changing media so simple. Specs for Body : https://reefmarketsg.com.sg/product/nyos-torq-body/ Specs for Base : https://reefmarketsg.com.sg/product/nyos-torq-dock/ Base dimension : 162mm x 162mm x 110mm (Height) Got the large 2L body. Both the 1L & 2L version allow 2 media to be placed in the tube. Giving it a quick wash with dishwashing liquid. Not a must but its just my common practice. Opening up the base to have a look. Powered by 1000l/hr pump. 12W The design adjusts the flow through the variable slot at the base of the body. Just like their skimmer, build quality is fantastic. Base is held in the tube via a reliable silicone O ring. Rinsing Rowaphos Recommendation is to place the longer lasting media at the bottom. So the bottom cover is popped open & Rowaphos added from the bottom end Carbon for the top half Sponge for the lid. Its important to place the motor block on the sump base or stable surface. I initially placed it on an egg crate sitting on top of some bio media which wasn't very stable. That's risky as you don't want the reactor to topple (due to unstable surface) and risk popping open the bottom lid (and contents can spill out). Hence the emphasis to mount it on a stable surface like sump bottom. Goodbye to dreaded moments of pulling out tubes when its time to change media in a reactor Tuning the flow rate is done by rotating the tube body. Crazy easy.

A couple of things done over the weekend. One issue with this leak sensor is that it either too sensitive (full contact with the 'salty' cabinet base) or does not trigger (bcos its too light & lifted up) Finally got down to making a simple holder Printing in progress All done Also got a new MP40 wet side. And more glue

I have 5 tangs, 9 cardinals, 3 wrasses & several blennies/mandarins/gobies. Fed quite heavily with home made frozen food/mysis daily. Many of us run very high overall pump flow rates which in reality may not be really necessary. These high flow rates cause the Clarisea internal levels to rise too much & advance the filter fleece before it is really fully loaded. Yes, I opened the flap to allow some water to flow out. This ensures the fleece is fully loaded before advancing.

Yes, this one changes color when depleted. pH clearly goes up by about 0.1-0.15

Trying this media to absorb CO2 for the skimmer intake. Bought too many packets ...probably let go of some soon. Clarisea media finally finished yesterday (6th Jan 19). Last change was 28 Oct 18 => lasted 2 months 9 days. Not sure why my media seems to bunch up a little. Perhaps the take up reel was tightened straight. A fellow reefer mentioned about fishes getting into his overflow & gets sucked into the drain pipe. Most likely the fish will get stuck at the ball/gate valve area & die there . To prevent this, this is what I've done on this tank : mount a large mesh cover over the siphon drain pipe. Chalice appears hungry :

Your corals are doing very well. Nice!

Top view with my iphone & viewing box

Noticed some wear marks on the Clarisea motor cable. Probably from regular pulling & tugging. Better do something about it before it splits to expose the wire. Workaround is to cut a small piece of air tubing. And slip over the wire

Its about 2.5 months since I started using the Nyos trace elements for this 850Ltank. Just finished the 1st set today. Quite economical & seems to work well. Free frag from a reefer friend from some time back coloring up nicely (Thanks so much for it) Quite glad to see the molted shell of a pom pom crab stuck on the tuxedo urchin. Got this crab almost a year ago but never seen it around (thought its dead already). Must be lurking around somewhere. Precious small frag of RBM seems to be losing the battle with coralline algae. Guess i'll need to cut the RBM

This think this will restrict flow & reduce performance of the skimmer continuously. If you really need this (though most folks don't), then have a 'cage like' screen instead of a flat screen - this will enable more water flow through. Look forward to seeing an upgrade tank build! Do share more pics

For my initial tank fill, i filled it up with water. Let it run to be sure there are no leaks as the pump system runs. Then placed a large filter sock at the sump water inlet area - and added salt into the filter sock till it reached 35ppt salinity.

Perhaps you could share about your equipment set up & tank set up for folks to provide better inputs on suitable hardy corals. Or what you have in mind.