SubzeroLT

Interesting. What are your thoughts about feeding fish/prawn meat? Either commercial products like LRS Frenzy or home made concoction.

I have a nice branchy frag. $10 @ Bt Batok area. PM me if you are keen Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can use clove oil to euthanize fish. Clove oil is a sedative which at high doses, can put the fish down humanely very quickly. eg. a few drops of it in a plastic bag with the sick fish.

Very sad to see my Achilles Tang pass away several weeks back. Its sense of sight seems to be affected & tend to miscalculate the location of falling pellets. And then there was bullying from the now larger Atlantic Blue Tang. Started to slow down. Moved it to a holding box but it continued not to eat. Died a week later. In retrospective, more could have been done. Taking it out earlier. A larger holding tank with better filtration. With the Hawaii ban, another AT will probably be out of reach in the near future. RIP. August 2018 - January 2021. Day 1 pic from 2018

I received some queries about how to load the AI Hydra64 light setting file since everything is on the mobile phone nowadays. Here are the steps for iPhone. I suppose it should be similar for android systems. Step 1 : Click on the .aip file (similar for whatsapp or facebook) The text screen appears. Click on the icon on the top right Click on the row showing the applications. If myAI app is not there, click on ' More' Scroll down & look for the myAI app The preset will then be loaded & ready to use.

Thanks You will love the Hydra64 for sure. I've been running the current light settings since February 2020. I've loaded the settings to Singapore Reef Club facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/groups/sgreefclub/permalink/1900022876802915/

Dimensions here https://www.nyos.info/en/torq

Regarding total light time. There is probably many answers & options. The common practice is to have about 4-6 hours of 'brighter' light. And several hours of bluish light in the evening to enjoy the glow of the corals. But again, it really depends on what you keep. Some SPS look nicer with whitish light only and very dull in blue because they don't fluorescence. Some folks prefer more bluish light through out. And to compensate the lower energy (PAR), the lighting hours are extended. Regarding nitrate/phosphate removal. The common practice is to remove organic waste efficiently via skimming or replacing the filter wool often. Reduce feeding. Use rowaphos to remove phosphates. On closer look at the photo, I noticed an edge. Is that a sand bed? Or a piece of sponge that the rocks are sitting on?

Yes, ABS. There is has an enclosure around the printer.

You can calculate the volume of water that goes back to the sump. And then design the sump to accommodate the volume. PM me if you need inputs on this. Personally, I would go with the vent hole AND build a sump that can accommodate the volume as well. Exciting days ahead!!

Firstly, do consider getting an optical refractometer to improve the chance of success. The float arm hydrometer is extremely inaccurate which can cause issues especially with corals. The brown stuff is likely diatoms. Related to new tank setup/silicates/lighting. It can go away after a while provided you keep nitrate/phosphates low & lighting to a reasonable level necessary for your corals. The process can be sped up by siphoning out the diatoms (not blow/stir it) as you want to 'export' it from the system

View of the left side of the sump. Added a large secondary chamber for the calcium reactor & sulfur reactor. Instead of having 2 (smaller) separate chamber, I decided to go with a single large one. The outlet water is routed through a 3D printed channel & into the refugium box to further reduce CO2. Left tube is for sulfur reactor effluent. Right side is for calcium reactor effluent. This set up allows me to visually see the drip rate of the effluent and easily remove it for cleaning/unclogging as necessary. Due to the relative height of the inlet vs outlet, it was possible to have this 'open' reactor. The orange/grat parts are 3D printed. And fits snugly on the Skimz lid (blue) I wanted away to remove the tubes in case it needs to be cleaned or flow adjusted. Instead of cable tying it down, a tube clip was made which slides in & out of the aluminum profile Algae blenny found a new favorite spot. Fortunately the clam isn't too bothered by it.

Coral Farm should also have

Lovely SPS collection indeed. Fish issues? Would be keen to hear more if its convenient to share.

The vertical turquoise line shows the current system time. You get this view on the mobile phone when placed in landscape mode. It looks different in portrait mode. The vertical orange line shows the time you want to make changes. In the screenshot, it shows 1.40pm. That's the peak lighting period so you can see the lighting settings at that time (refer to percentages at the top of the pic) You can also get other light settings from the AI website: https://www.aquaillumination.com/lightsciences/signature-series

Do share more pics

I'm using the following setting. You can use this as a starting point :

Love the prata & torch section. New holy grail torch?

Maintenance weekend Clean lens & body of the lights. Wipe off salt spray. Out of sight but not out of mind. They do catch a lot of dust & pet fur. Particularly for the blade, you need to do this when the lights are off & install the grill back correctly. Check that the fan turns freely. The blades can snap off if it get caught when spinning. Wipe off salt spray from wavemaker. Else, the rubberized parts get sticky over time. Top up the CO2 scrubber. More on this in another update. Trim off overgrown corals. Will post on pasar malam soon 15% water change You'll notice I'm wearing gloves most of the time. Here is a short write up about gloves & minimizing risk of rashes. https://www.sgreefclub.com/home/protect-yourself-protect-your-tank/ This long latex glove is good. Disposable nitrile gloves are particularly useful when gluing corals. Or when you are attempting to squeeze out every last drop of glue. Slip a disposable nitrile glove over the full length latex ($$) glove when glueing corals inside the tank. Secure the cuff area with rubber band.

You can refer to this SRC article by Willy for a more detailed explanation : https://www.sgreefclub.com/home/reef-photography-tips-tricks/ I do the following when taking pics with an iphone To capture the fluorescence of LPS : Best taken with yellow filter. Favorite lens is DD Coral Lens Gen2 for use with mobile phone Lighting : Use blue light only. In my case, with AI Hydra64, turn on Blue & Royal Blue to about 30-50%. No ambient light as this will mess up the yellow filter. So best to take the pics at night with the room lights off (only have tank blue light) That's it. Then just take pics To capture colors of non fluorescent SPS : About 10-14k lighting temperature (i.e. more whitish light setting) Ambient light is OK. No yellow filter when taking pics during the day time

Do share your feeding regime. And close up pics if available. Very interesting tank/topic.

Thanks Most of us do not have the space for a proper quarantine system. Or the discipline to follow through it. My process to manage fish disease : Quarantine. I have a plastic tub (filled with 20L of water) to quarantine fish for a couple of days to monitor them. Usually add prazi as a preventive measure against intestinal worms , skin flukes & paravortex turbellaria flatworms (black ich). But as you say, this is not 100% fool proof. The rest are more applicable to your query. Hospital tank/medication. I have a spare plastic tub / tank on standby in case fish get sick & needs to be taken out to medicate. Air pump & wavemaker for the hospital tank is always within reach. Standby Seachem Cupramine (for ich), Eiho Prazi Gold (dewormer) & API Furan2 (broad spectrum anti biotic) AquaUV sterilizer. Usually running about 75% of the time but will turn on 24/7 for several weeks if new fish are added. UV is to mitigate risk of full blown ich. I'm running a 57w unit on the 850L tank. Feed the fish well so they can fight off parasites on their own. I use Fauna Marin Food Energizer on a regular basis to give pellet food a nutrition boost. Selcon works very well as well. Cleaner wrasse eat some turbellaria flatworms that reside on fish. Wrasses & Mandarin dragonets eat what they find on the sand bed. Wrasses & mandarins are not a solution to pests. And may not do much in the whole scheme of things. But they probably do help a little (just like how UV can reduce the population of cryptocaryon irritans). A single adult turbellaria flatworms (black ich) can re-produce hundreds of larvae on the body of a fish. Any reduction of an adult is a good thing. I have cleaner wrasse, 6 line wrasse & blue mandarin dragonets - 2 pair of each.

Fortunately or unfortunately, I have a crazy population of asterina starfish. I think there comes a tipping point where its able to self sustain (hopefully in the long term). When I first started the hobby, I did the same thing to buy sand sifting starfish but feel this is not a good idea. The starfish will be dead in a few days & continue to be in the water for longer periods for the shrimp to finish eating it. That fouls the water. And sand sifting starfish are now in the $5-$6 range each. Not $2 anymore.

Using Olympus EM5 MK1 (there is a new version out now) + Olympus 60mm macro lens. Pics from outside the tank of course. Here are more fish pics :

This piece started as a single stem stuck to the back wall of the tank several years back. It merged with another pink digi & reached the water surface. Then hair algae started to grow there. Snip snip....and this piece goes back to the back wall. Got this new frag cutter from ReefmarketSG recently. The black layer is some kind of plasma deposition coating (if I heard it correctly). I suppose this gives the stainless steel cutter an additional layer of protection against rust. And its pretty sharp. Didn't realize how blunt my old frag cutter was until now.