pospeh
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Posts posted by pospeh
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WOW, this volume sounds more interesting than the prior volumes. Clams!
Need to get a copy from Amazon then.
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I dont think vol 4 and 5 are out yet.
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Unfortunately, such creatures are protected under CITES.
You will not be able to import such creatures unless you are a research institution, a marine park, Underwater World etc.
And yes... in the black market... they will be more than $10,000 each.
AT, I think you meant to say "fortunately" they are protected by CITES.
Not that I am a crusader or anything, I also try to avoid buying fishes from SE Asia because of the high use of cyanides in collecting these fishes.
I just find it more economical to buy fishes from the US, Red Sea, Australia because the survival rates for those fishes are higher.
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Saw a 6 inch specimen at Marine Life at Hong Leong.
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What kind of corals do you have?
The softies are all pretty adaptable. Plus I don't think light shock is that huge of a problem even for hard corals.
Be that as it may, it is still a good idea to acclimatize the hard corals, just to be safe. . . . but I guess having a fix canopy kills that idea.
All I can think of is if you have more than one bulb coming, you might just try adding a single bulb at first.
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Geez, 1000+ watt of power seems to be a bit of a overkill unless he plans to keeps lots of sps corals. The light bill must be tremondous, not to mention the heat generated.
How big is the tank? I am guessing around 200 gallons. i think the rule of thumb for MH lighting is 3-5 watts per gallon.
As AT said, the light band between the 6.5k and 20K seems a bit too defined. Why don't you consider putting all 10K bulbs, and adding actinics for the blue?
JMHO
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Yep, thats the scienific name.
I got mine from 5 years back for about $100. I think Sealife has one for sale now for 60.
The long nose type butterflies you mentioned are both very beautyful. I think they go for less than 10 at most shops. Of the two, I would go for the yellow long nose rather than the copperband as it is more hardy. You should have no trouble keeping one if your tank conditions are right.
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How large of a tank do you have and what are you feeding it.
It does need a varied diet to keep its color (in the wild it is a spong eater) and a large tank with lots of hiding spaces.
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One of my favorites is the masked butterfly. Its from the red sea and has a golden yellow color and a racoon like blue patch on its face.
It will eat brine shrimp and I kept one for several years. But that was a fish only tank. I think it will probably eat corals, but i have never actually kept it with corals.
The only bad thing about it is the price
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I agree with Chris.
Nudibranches have specilized feeding habits, with each specie feeding on different things. Some on sponges, some on sea fans, Etc.
They should not be collected in the first place or be bought by hobbiests as they will just starve to death in a home tank.
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I think a nice piece of rock with lots of mushrooms are around 8 while a plate coral is around 20.
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I don't think there are any chemical additive you can add that will permanently solve your red algae problem (which sounds to be like cynobacteria from your description of "red slime"). It is actually a bacteria, not algae.
To get at the root of the problem for any algae problem, including cynobacteria, you need to reduce your bioload on your tank, or alternatively, get more efficient filtration. You need to remove the nitrates and the phosphates that are in your system. Water changes are also a good temporary solution to reduce the amount of nitrates and phosphates in the water.
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Other books are (1) Natural Reef Aquarium by John Tullock and (2) Aquarium Corals by Eric Borneman
Both can be bought from Amzaon
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Correction:
Lee Chin Eng was Indonesian. He stayed in Bali and did most of his research there and later moved to Singapore.
I read about him before.
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I would say a canister filter is a useless piece of equipment (for purposes of filtration and denitrafication), as there are much better method out there. I would even venture to say that it does more harm than good if you don't properly maintain and clean it. I would remove it unless you have no other means of water circulation. Otherwise, I just think of it as a glorified pump.
The essential equipment is a pump to provide water circulation, a skimmer, live rock or live sand (if you can afford it) and lighting (suitable for whether you are fish only or reef tank). You don't need anything else
As an aside, Singporeans should be very proud of the fact that we first introduced the concept of live rock filtration to the world. Lee Chin Eng first introduced the natural live rock filtration method to the world in the early 60's after he found that simply by placing live rock in the tank, the fish thrived. I think he passed away for quite a while already.
So its not the Ang Mohs that does everything first.
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Great test guys,
I would like to mix bulbs of different spectrums too . . . but no budget to buy a whole new ballast.
I use the 250W AB 10K HQI which I think is actually closer to 13K in terms of color. It gives a nice whitish blue color much like the Ushios in your test.
I don't know about the PARS for that bulb though, although it is my understanding that HQIs give out more light.
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A good and properly run air driven skimmer is as good as a venturi skimmer. The key is getting a good airstone (which you need to replace quite often because of the salt water) and a powerful air pump. It is also preferable to get a skimmer with a long column (greater than 20 inches) so that the bubbles come in contact with the water for a longer period.
But all in all I dont think in the long run, an air driven skimmer is that much more cheaper to run than a venturi skimmer.
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I would say a skimmer is essential equipment for any marine tank, especially for a beginner.
The various filtration methods such as Live Rock, Live Sand, NNR eliminates nitrates and nitrites AFTER they have been produced.
A skimmer will eliminate the raw wastes before they have a chance to degrade to ammonia, nitrates, etc.
So with a good skimmer, you eliminate the vast majority of the bad stuff before they are produced. And for a beginner who is likely to early-stock and overstock the tank, this piece of equipment can be a lifesaver.
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But this tank is a physical impossibility.
The angel would eat the corals. The lion would eat the damsels.
And the aspect ratios are all wrong. How can a damsel be half the size of a lionfish?
And bubbles!!! you only use that in freshwater tanks
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A clarification. Whilest lionfishes do not ear corals, they do love to eat everything else that are found commonly in reef tanks (i.e., smaller to medium size fishes, shrimps, etc). They have huge mouths!!
So having a lionfish severly limits your choice of fish in a reef tank. The only other fish that can be safely placed with lionfishes are other similarly large-sized fishes . . . and many of those larger fishes will eat coral.
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It's most likely coraline algae that has die off when it was removed from the ocean.
The rotting smell is another sign that die off of the critters that live in the live rock has occurred. Its all a normal part of the curing process and you just have to wait a while for everything to settle into balance. i.e,. don't put the stuff in the tank with any corals and fish in it until it has cured.
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Ian,
I may be mistaken, but do you have a lionfish in your tank? The thingy on the bottom right hand corner of your tank seems to be a lionfish. If that is the case, I don't think you should be keeping any corals. It is either the corals or the lionfish.
I recognize your tank as being from Aquatechnic. But it is a bit unusual for an Aquatechhic tank in that your have quite a bit of plumbing (and also a skimmer) hanging out from the top of the tank. Do you not have a sump because it was formally a freshwater plant tank?
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Hi all,
can someone share with me the effect of different salinity value.
1.020, 021 22 23 24 or 25 ?
I noticed queen angel, king anel , french seems to be more active with higher salnity valus and coral seems to do well in low salinity value .
Being an enclosed space, the red sea has higher salinity. So fishes from the red sea (purple tang, majestic tang) tend to prefer higher salinity. But they can be acclimated to accept lower salinity.
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although lots us people seem to swear by Coralife, I dont find it that good because of its non-soluability.
Biosal, in my opinion, is one of the best out there. It melts evenly and quickly, unlike Coralife. I believe it is dug from salt mines rather than evaporated seawater. Because of this, when you mix it, the water actually turns cooler (I don't know why, though), rather than hotter when you mix the other salt mix brands.
Sentosa Underwater World
in General Reefkeeping_
Posted
Do you know if their feeding requirements are any more different than seahorses? If so there is no reason why they can't be captive bred.