ml708

I did several water changes and I think I have removed close to 100% of my old water in the tank by now. This reduced my nitrates to 2ppm from a ridiculous 24ppm. However my phosphates are still at 4.5ppm. Rowaphos does not seem to have helped either. I feed half the amount I normally feed to reduce nitrate and phosphate buildup and still have this reading. Can anyone please advise me what to do? My duncan is absolutely hating it!

Flashlight fish

I just tried to on wavemaker but off return pump. bad thing is my mysis tends to settle at the sand bed. any way to prevent this?

Mine is broadcast feeding of various coral foods in the day, and a large amount of mysis at night.

anyone making frozen gel type foods for your fish? can share how you make? thank you!

I hope this isn't a stupid question, but if the water inside is well maintained, is it possible to keep a fish in there for life? since it gives it the illusion of being able to swim far. of course I am not referring to fish that require substrates and other more demanding conditions

where can you get them online? they send to SG?

to prevent food from going into the sump and stuff, but leave the wavemaker on to circulate the food.

from what I understand, nitrates are generally from uneaten food. am I right to say that that is likely to be the single largest contributor?

how do you build an algae scrubber and how much algae do you need?

where do you keep your chaeto? many people keep in the sump but don't you have to install an additional light source for that? also nitratEX apparently is only for use with freshwater systems O_o

for rowaphos once every 2 months would be good? do biospheres last indefinitely?

and how should one go about doing it? advisable to remove the sand and wash it in some DI water? for me I just stir up the sand bed and let the gunk go into the filter.

Does TDS also lower on its own as well if no new nutrients are added to the tank?

thats the brand, what food from polyp lab do you use?

did you dose daily?

yes unfortunately because my DI unit was not working well and I never realised it, until I tested and saw water coming out at 64. My tap water is 67. so I got a new RO/DI unit which is giving me a reading of 0.

My flashlight fish are really big eaters, and it has affected the water quality to the extent that my duncan does not want to open. I did water changes and now he is opening more again. How do you frozen food feeders keep your nitrates and phosphates down? A really annoying side effect is also that my skimmer goes into overdrive and keeps churning out foam at an incredible rate after feeding. Any way to prevent this?

I know marine life aquarium sells gel type foods for fish, but are there other suppliers available too? Thanks in advance!

I'm having a problem with my phosphate level, a really big problem. Its at 4.5 and it was my fault that I never did regular checks. I quickly changed some rowaphos in my reactor and am doing water changes. Does phosphate naturally decompose in an aquarium? How long will rowaphos take to reduce the levels to an acceptable one? My nitrates are at 24, which is ridiculously high too. And it seems that nitrifying bacteria and water changes aren't lowering it fast enough. Any advice?

I have a high TDS reading from the water I have added in a few of my tanks, both fresh and saltwater. Have been doing partial water changes of 20% every 3 days but I'm afraid that the TDS in the tank is not going down fast enough. Any idea of any chemical I can add to speed up the process?

I am rather keen on either building or buying one. Does anyone have any experience with one? I'm thinking of using it to dose mysis and clam max into my tank. Anyone also know of anything that can dispense gel foods?

It's purely a hypothetical question at the moment, getting a TDS meter tmr and will report back on the reading.

So on average how often should I change resin?

Usually it's the resin that starts to degrade first and not the membrane? Why is that so?