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Quas111

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Everything posted by Quas111

  1. the rock is for future zoas. The Rock where they are on now was also like that before I put the frags into the holes
  2. I would say that the problem is with no wave maker. Usually this kind of shit gets blown off the sand when there is water movement
  3. OK I have bottled it down to either an favia speciosa or a favite pentagonna. I think it looks closer to a pentagona
  4. @ashwin thanks @admiraltan thanks! After looking online I think it's a favia but the type also appears under pictures searched for micromussa so im not so sure
  5. But hold on most pictures online show that favias have distinct protrusions around their mouth, like an echinata but less fleshy. This has no divides like that though. Is it still a favia?
  6. aaahhh yes this is exactly what it is. Online descriptions are spot on. Thanks!
  7. OK haha sounds like it's a micromussa then
  8. Thanks! I was referring to the left one but how can I know if it's a micromussa or an echinata if both species are nearly identical?
  9. it's quite fleshy, doesn't have individual heads(but has a lot of mouths), the mouths grow at different sizes and the flesh just spreads at the edge in different colors depending on how much light it receives. Thanks!
  10. Hmm it has been really long since I posted something here so I guess it's about time Fts: Bts: Mushroom rock: Some sps: My zoa collection(I didnt take photos of my sunny delight frag and captain america because they are currently closed from feeding): And a picture of everything Oh and I got a ultra bleached coral from an lfs a months ago and now it's a blend of orange(dominant), green(dominant), red and purple. Can anyone help me id I it? It's now my most favourite coral other than the zoas and I intend to collect more so pls help
  11. Loose contact should be the case cos then it would just dim and not flicker. Marine LEDs don't work on pwm the last time I checked so they wouldn't flicker because of loose connection
  12. Usually it's brand to brand basis unless you post the model name here I don't think I can help
  13. LEDs work with a constant current source. It may be overheating , so try to turn it off for about an hour and turn it back on and see if it fixes the problem. Else you're gonna have to replace the whole light set if the adaptors internal, or replace the adaptor if it's external. Usually constant current supplies are in a large aluminium box external from the light
  14. haha I can't do anything about my glass now :/ but maybe ill consider acrylic or crystal glass next time I upgrade my tank
  15. Hmm razor has all the colors so it wouldn't mean that the lighting spectrum is insufficient.
  16. Update: turns out that the reason why the corals look different is because of the glass and not the lights. When I put the corals near the water surface they look more stunning
  17. I'm using the default lens as im afraid that the light cannot penetrate all the way through the water column with wide angle reflectors
  18. @kevin81 I think got some from you haha they're growing beside a gsp colony bred from the one I bought from you
  19. thanks for the input Bro hmm ill try that combo tomorrow. Oh and I don't think I wrote that they are stressed earlier :/ anyways I think one of the reasons why they aren't "popping" is probably because they haven't adjusted to the light yet. And after I changed the orientation of the light I think the problem may have been fixed
  20. Update: I shifted the led above the rock and changed the direction it is facing and the colors look a lot better. However it's still not as good as I hope it to be. Guess the only way now is to save for a t5
  21. 5 feet is too big for my tank. Anyways I experimented and 40% is the best. I just have to wait and see what other people's opinions are too
  22. Update: tried it, better but I'm still not happy with it
  23. I use the same brand of lighting and currently use 60% white and 100% blue. Doesn't look that great to me. I'll try 40% white maybe that will make it a bit better
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