Marineman

My tank is 5 yrs old, mainly LPS with a couple of montis. Previously when my Ca was low I do top up with additives but then I do not see any effect on my corals, reading was 250ppm. Recently I have taken things for granted as I have a stable tank for a few yrs, furthermore I was busy and did not do regular WC (started with every 2 weeks than delayed to a month and then to 6 weeks or longer), I begin to notice my montis starting to bleach, thought it was my lighting as I have not change my MH for a yr. Then I begin to see my bubbles and mushies beginning to decay (not healthy), my coraline algae starts to lose colour and growth (turning from pink to brown!). As I am too lazy to do any test for months (always showed the same result and gets boring). I asked some experienced reefers who told me that it could be my low KH. I used kalkwasser for top up as I do not have a CR. When I start to increase my KH, I noticed that my corals begins to recover within a week and my coraline starts to recover too. I di not check my CA at that time, I only suspect it is low becos CA is not absorbed by the system when your KH is low.

I think Cherm better change his nick to Cham, very cham la, kena left, right and center! LOL

I agree with you. Moreover all new tanks will go through this experience, start off with brown algae which you can use turbo snails, tangs, blenny and reduced lighting to counter it. I think the green algae will go away after a while and coraline will take over if you use kalawasser for water top up and a calcium reactor. My tank is about 4 months old and experiencing exactly the same problem as yours, I can see the coraline algae growing too, like you said a bit slow. To clean the rocks is not an option, it WILL come back, to reduce lighting is also not an option as I have a lot of corals in the tank. If you look at those matured tanks, you don't see any of the rocks having this type green algae, I guess it is only a cycle. As long as there is no hair algae, I just leave it and see what happens.

If you cannot raise your calcium level, your KH could be low and that could be the reason. If KH is low you can see that the corals, esp sps, will begin to lose colour over a period of time and mushies will also be affected, however this will take weeks to a couple of months to see the effect.

looks like it isn't it! He is the Chief Information Officier on Public Aquariums! Thanks for sharing, it takes a lot of effort to take photos, downsize and post and you are so good at it, keep it up! My sis and bro was laughing at me when I visited aquariums, they said I only know how to take pictures of fishes and corals and forget everything else and not take photos of the family!! I am sure you are in the same predicament too!

I faced the same problem! I have been using coralife for the last 5 yrs becos it has very little residue and water is clear. However about a yr ago, I noticed that the water turns milky after mixing it for as long as 10 days, whether it's 1 day or 10 days, colour still the same. I have to leave it for a few hours without the pump so that the "white powder" sinks to the bottom for the water to be clear. I normally buys a box of 3 * 6.6 kg. I believe the problem lies in the production, was told that it was manufactured in China, therefore inconsistent quality. I have experienced 3 batches over the last yr. Switched to IO (was told it was manufactured in China as well), water slightly milky not crystal clear............... I do not test for the quality of various salts, I only judge them by the warer clarity and minimal residue after mixing, afterall I think all salts are more or less the same as long as they are manufactured by the big boys.

What type of algae?

Not to my knowledge, maybe your fingers got "bitten" by something else hidden among the rocks.

What about this from an aquarium in Yokohama, Japan?

It is Pseuanthias Luzonensis or Philippines Fairy Basslet.

The second pic looks like bartlets's colour but as I said, Bartletts does not have a line across the eye.

I had experienced the same problem, mine survived for a few weeks and it was eating, two died on me. I guess it is the collection using cynide, esp from the Philippines, based on my research.

No, Bartletts does not have the "line" below the eye, looks like Pseuanthias Luzonensis or Philippines Fairy Basslet. Dispar is similiar with the "line" across the eye but the mouth for dispar is pointed, this is not.

I may not fully understand what you wrote but the first three words is not polite. You should refrain from making unnecessary remarks to reflect your immaturity and intolerance towards others afterall this is a public forum and if you don't like or understand a particular thread, you can choose to ignore without making uncalled for remarks.

He is not answering..............

I was considering to use an Ozoniser at one time but decided against it for the time being. I have done some research and the advantages are many, like water clarity, better light penetration, killing of germs, increased oxygen and redox levels, enhance skimmer performance. However applications must be strict and applied accordingly. A Redox controller which controls the the application of ozone within predetermmined parameters, used with adequate carbon on the effluent air and water outlets can be safely applied and controlled without fear of water contamination. The use of ozone is useful to reduce stress of newly arrived fishes as the ozone will provide them with more oxygen and at the same time kill germs which causes white spots but if too much ozone is applied, the fish gills and eyes will suffer the damage first. Ozone is not necessary or recommended for continous application without a controller as harmful byproducts may give rise for concerns like excess ozone can harm marine organisms like excess ozone in the air is also a health hazard for humans! Despite the many benefits of ozone, it should always be used as a temporary or controlled treatment with due consideration for risks of misapplication. Some reefers switched on when water is not clear and off when water is clear. In my case my water is always clear enough. Personally, I am not sure if I can handle the management of the the Ozoniser and the redox controller to take full advantage of its benefits. If I do not apply it correctly then my tank living organisms will be wiped out! Not forgeting that ozone can also alter or degenerate plastics which makes them brittle over time. Maybe I will reconsider to use it one day...................

Simply Amazing! If I get married again I will ask you to be my official photographer!

I have the same problem, a real nuisance and you can't even remove or delete it from you screen! I suggest you go to your Control panel and click on the icon that says "Add or Remove Program", click on it and then delete those files which states "spyware' or programs which you are not using. I am sure you will find that nuisance spyware there.

Totally agreed, cheaper and better ones in Spore. Not worth the effort at all!

BTW my kids only likes salmon sashimi, me too, prefer toro but very pricy of course, only give myself a treat from time to time! Gouldian, since you have done so much research on how to sliced the salmon and serve them, can we have a salmon eating session at your place? But make sure the salmon is big and fat enough as I can see a lot of hungry reefers here, we will pay for our share of course. I will bring my kids along as well, mind you they eat a lot!

hahahaha! you guys, don't rub it in la, why not try something else like toro or kobe beef?

Hahaha Bro salmon, be prepared to be skinned and consumed, look at this thread here! http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?...topic=43968&hl=

Received this from someone thru email, was told that this was the spacecraft where the first Indian Astronaught was killed, I can't verify info I received is right or wrong, intention was to share the photos. Don't remember there is ever a spacecraft that exploded becos of explosion with loose rock from space. Logically it is not possible as the rocks, if any would are floating in space.

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