Boonboy

Totally agree. This frag is just below the wave maker. Do you see the yellowish stuff? I suspect that is algae.

Do I also off the skimmer for amino acid and feeding?

Thank you for the education. For a moment, I was worried that the lights I am using had caused the polyps to not extend fully. Do you broadcast or target feed the supplements? (Amino acid)

I am puzzled! Whenever I look into the dark tank early in the morning and see that the polyps of most of the SPS (especially the acropora) having polyps fully extended (more then when the lights are on). Any explanation for this? * Picture taken using the room light (NOT the tank light), cannot capture the polyps without light.

I had similar issue too. I am using Skimz SM121. There was once it just keep overflowing after I did a water change. I had to reduce the water level to stop it from overflowing. Took about 1 ~ 2 hours for me to slowly raise the water level to the normal water level.

Yes, you should. I am using the same DI set and got 0~2 TDS after changing the resin(at full blast).

There is another thread discussing the exact issue. You may like to refer to it for solution. My guess is the resin that comes with a new set is expired!

Is this your school assignment? I was stuck at the first question... 1 means most love and 5 means least or the other way round?

Have not updated as there was not much growth. One of the frag is losing polyps slowly to zoa pox. Still battling with hair algae. Serious considering added rowaphos in filter bag. Any thoughts? FTS FTS - actinic

Check your flow rate. For a new set/resin, I believe you need high flow rate for it to be optimum. If you like to replace the resin, get the refill and reuse the crystal pro cartridge case. However, you need to ply it open. It may crack or break if you exert too much force.

Hi, Selling T5 after upgrading to MH and LED. Item 1 - Aqua Zonic Super Bright T5 - $60 Length: 60cm 4 x 24 watt: 2 x ATI coral plus 1 x ATI actinic 1 x Aqua Zonic super sun 12k Lightset & tubes: about 5 months old. Item 2 - Aqua Zonic T5 - $25 Length: 60cm 2 x 24 watt: 2 x Aqua Zonic super actinic Tubes: about 5 months old. May have some spare tubes to give away if you take both together. If you are interested, please PM me with your contact. Thank you for reading.

Just to share my experience. When I bought my Crystal Pro 3 stage it could not achieve 0 TDS reading with the resin & carbon that came with it(> 20). After I purchased a brand new set of resin & carbon cartridge I manage to see 0 ~ 2 TDS. Unfortunately, after about 2 months it went up to 6 TDS.

I got my peppermint shrimps about 2 weeks ago from LCK201. You may like to check again.

Thank you. My tank now looks like a frag tank (except that the frags are on rock, not rack). Will probably start a tank thread when the frags become small colonies.

I believe compact 5000 is an in-sump only pump whereas 1264 is both in/out of sump pump. Personally I prefer out of sump return pump. - less heat, less work for chiller - more space in sump for other equipment

For your considerations... For chiller feed if your flow rate is higher then the chiller max flow rate, you will not be able to achieve good chilling effect. On the other hand, you want your tank turnover to be high. Lastly, you need to know how much flow your overflow can manage. I would suggest 2 return (for redundancy). You can run one return through your chiller and the other through your carbon. With 2 returns you can place them at opposite corners and give your display extra current/turbulence/flow(save on wave maker) Just ensure the total flow of the 2 return pump is lesser then your overflow. Otherwise your display will overflow.

Thank you for the advise. I am using Phoenix 14k (recommended by DELightings). I started with 15 inch above waterline for 5 hours. Following day lowered to 12 inch above waterline for 6 hours. Next going to increase the photo period to 7 hours (today). Planning to increase an hour every 3 days until I reach 10 hours. Finally, will lower to about 9~10 inch above waterline.

Interested in your SPS. PMed you. Thanks.

With just few hours under MH, I am convinced that corals (especially SPS) are definitely better under metal halide (vs T5). First time I can seen polyps near the base of this purple valida frag! Feel they were so deprived under the T5s. However, I find the shimmering effect a little annoying. (Will get use soon)

Seen the real thing… Very nice… Colors of the SPS are amazing…

No way to squeeze in any T5. Hanging MH 15 inch above the water line. So far (5 minutes) the polyps starting to extend. It's hot just looking at it!

My tank is only 2 feet, will try to squeeze in the T5. How about hang the MH higher and gradually lower it? Some say use egg crate to diffuse the light, anyone done that?

Opps... May have given you the wrong impression. I am changing from T5 to metal halide(MH).

Hi, I am planning to swop 6 tubes (24W each) of T5 with 1 x 250w (14k) MH. Read about horror story where corals start to bleach out. Would like to seek advise on how to acclimate corals, fish & invertebrates to new light sets. Currently, running 10 hours light cycle. 1hr - 2 tubes 8hr - 6 tubes 1hr - 2 tubes 6 x 24W = 144W Reason of change: time to change tubes $30x6=$180 > MH bulb ~$100x1 (yes I am aware the electric bill will increase but the wattage also doubled so happier tank happier reefer)

Wah, you put it that way then I think Chua Chu Kang, Bukit Panjang and Bukit Timah can also consider north zone? LOL