Gouldian

ooops, my bad. Kindly sms Alvin @ 97709979 for address.

Aquarium & Accessories 1. 4’ x 2’ x 2’ Aquarium (WYSIWYG) - $250.00 2. Resun Chiller CL650 (less than 2yrs) - $250.00 3. AquaMedic BioFlotor Skimmer (less than 2yrs) - $150.00 4. Ocean Werks Fluidised Reactor C/W Compact 600 Pump (less than 1yr) - $40.00 5. Tunze 6060 C/W Sure Grip Magnetic Holder (less than 1yr) - $150.00 6. Algae Free Hammer Head Cleaner with spare pad (less than 1yr) - $50.00 7. 2 x 54w T5 (AquaMarin) Retro Lights C/W Moon Lights and ATI Tubes (less than 1yr) - $160.00 8. Atman Metal Halides (150w) Double Ended C/W 10kk BLV (less than 2 yrs) - $100.00 9. Aqua-Bee UP 3000 Pump (less than 1yr) - $100 10. Aqua-Bee UP 2000 Pump (less than 1yr) - $100 11. Portable Refractometer (less than 1yr) - $40.00 Fishes & Corals 1. 1 pair Flame Angel (Proven pair) - SOLD 2. 1 Flame Hawk - SOLD 3. 1 Yellow Tang - SOLD 4. 1 Brown Tang - SOLD 5. 4 Blue Chromis - $12.00 6. 1 pair Banggai Cardinal Fish (Breeding pair) - $20 7. 1 Sea Cucumber - $8.00 8. 1 Percula Clown Fish - $25.00 9. 1 Maxima Clam - SOLD 10. 1 Leather Coral - $7.00 11. 1 Star Polyps - $10.00 12. 30 kg of Live Rocks - $4/kg 13. 1 Brown Rhodactis colony - $6.00 Please contact him direct (Danny 96928378) as I am just helping to post.

UP.... T5 set and 620 still available.

Not very good at ID bro, paiseh. But more than willing to drop by to learn from you.

WOW!!!

I might be wrong bro, but it looks like lobo to me.

Hi bro, It very difficult to determine when you need to change you carbon due to the below reasons: 1) Carbon adsorb nutrients. Meaning nutrients will gather or accumulate on the pores of the Carbon, trapped and remove by hobbyist when changing media. This process is passive and is dependant of external factors. 2) Individual tank conditions differs due to the water, additives, food, ozone,, medications and waste introduced into the water column. 3) Different grade and size of carbon used. 4) Placement of carbon, whether in FR or just in a bag that is throw into a cornaer of the sump. 5) Once the pores in the carbon is blocked due to saturation it will no longer be effective. As carbon adsorb odours, colours and some dissolved impurities. Some reefers will check on samples of the water weekly over a white background, once they discover a yellowing of the water - its time to change carbon. But generally most reefers will change their carbon during their weekly water-change. HTH

Btw bro, Just noticed that you do not have a Refractometer as your basic equipment. IMHO, I think a good refractometer (around $60) is a worthwhile investment to ensure accurate salinity. You can also look out from the Pasar Malam section for 2nd hands ones.

I'm speechless bro!

Hi bro, I have used the above chiller for my previous 3ft. I used it with a Aquabee 2000. The distance from my pump to chiller is 2 ft (1ft horizontal, 1 ft vertical with 1 x 90 degree elbow)) and the chiller to main tank is 3.5ft (1ft horizontal, 2.5ft vertical with 2 x 90 degree elbows). It was able to chill my tank effectively. In fact, I even used it to chill my present tank before i upgraded to the Daeil 1/3hp. It was able to chill until I increase the heat load by adding 2 x 250 MH. HTH

Hi Andy, Just like planted, if we chose to keep Anubias sp., little fertiliser, lights, water quality is needed VS if we intend to keep Riccia sp. The most common additives use for basic set-up like yours will be: 1) Kalkwasser - To maintain Calcium and Alkalinity 2) Calcium and kH buffers - Alternative for reefers who do not like Kalkwasser If you dose either of the above as per instructions, your Coraline Algae will eventually grows on your LR making them purplish pink. I guess this could be the addditives your friend is refering. Live sand is basically sands that have beneficial bacteria harbouring in them. Most reefers will just grab a handful of sand from a established tank to seed their sand bought from the shop. There are also alternatives such as buying commercially prepared Live Sand but these are more expensive. Live rock will usually smell saltish just like the ocean, dead rock will smell almost similar too. Its the dying rocks that stink! IMHO, I usually chose rocks that is free from any sponge, algae or unidentified mess attaching on them. Good quality LR are also free from 'dust' like particles settling on the surface and should be purplish pink due to coraline algae growth. Like me know if you need further assistance.

A couple of reefers still culture rotifers, I believed they will be Pming you soon with their generous offers.

In the initial stage, always test for Ammonia (NH3) and Nitrite (NO2) to determine when you can add your first livestock. After which test again for your next addition so on and so for. Its difficult to have Nitrate (NO3) reading at 0 without help of the more advance equipments and media. It is always good to read about the fishes that you wanted to keep especially when you are have a smaller room for error due to your set-up. Look for the following information to decide whether the fish is suitable for you: 1) Whether its a hardy fish recommended for beginner 2) Whether its suitable for community set-up or species only tank 3) What is its total length 4) What does it eat 5) What is its optimum parameters (Reef, Coastal or Trans-oceanic) Remember, ability to keep VS optimum condition are entirely different.

OMG!!!! Hard to see you post nowadays. Hope all are well on your side.

Maybe you could let us know the livestocks you intend to keep so that we may provide our 2 cents so as to avoid getting fishes not suitable for your tank. Also, as per your planted experience, selecting a healthy livestock that is eating and active is of key importance. HTH

Hi Andy, The more accurate method is to test for Ammonia and Nitrite. After introducing some LS and LR, your tank will begin its cycling process. Most reefers will test the water for a spike in Ammonia then Nitrite. Once your tank Ammonia and Nitrite is 0, you may begin adding your livestock/s. However, do note that your tank is still young and the beneficial bacteria may still not fully occupy every inch of your tank and thus may not be able to handle the influx of too many livestosks. Thus stock moderately and continue your tests. In fact, some reefers in Europe and US will cycle their tank for longer period than we Asians do. HTH

RO or distilled water is not recommended for long term consumption due to the lacking of minerals. Why we used it for our hobby is that our salt-mix contains the necessary minerals for the optimum health of our hobby. 0 TDS = plain H20 with untraceable minerals, this will have lesser benefits than water that still have its dissolved minerals intact. Thus drinking of distilled or RO water should not be consider as better for health. Most health conscious people will prefer to drink natural spring or mineral water than distilled water / RO water.

Hi Andy, Welcome to the forum, I believe you have most of the things in order. There is not hard and fast rule in marine just as there isn't in planted too. A tank without a skimmer will have to relay heavily of Live Rock and Live Sand to convert Ammonia to Nitrite and Nitrates. Thus it needs to be lightly stock or have extra area/s for LR or LS such as large refugium/s. Most of us prefer to have skimmer is because: 1) Effectively removes dissolves organic carbon (DOC) 2) Provides addition aeration - stabalize pH and less stressful to fishes 3) Do not have space for large refugiums that houses LR and LS for the effective removal of organic waste 4) Able to keep more livestocks 5) Able to keep more delicate fishes / interverts PS: The key to any hobby is the same - Patience - Take your time to explore and fine tune your methods before rushing to the shops. HTH

Yup tap water in my area hover around 60 TDS too. Distilled and RO is able to produced water that is 0 TDS. Besides chlorine, which is unstable and can dessipate through aeration overnight. Our water also contain chloramine which is a more stable form of chlorine that do not dessipate easily.

Nice work bro, thanks for sharing. I shal check out this thread periodically.

Hi bro, Thanks for the welcome, been checking out your exciting tank thread but never posted until I saw that wierd message.

Hi bro, Have not done so for my present tank but I believe if you still need your cabinet to be at its present position, you can only remove and re-laminate the doors. Cuz, lamination is best done of a horizontal surface so as to ensure that the surface will be even / flat. After lamination, the corners will still needs trimming and buff to ensure that there are no sharp edges. HTH

What happened bro???

Long nose hawk (Partly due to its lack of swim bladder and partly due to their plentiful food source among gorgonians in the wild) will stalk, aim and lung forward to capture preys. This feeding technique is not well suited for tank with fast moving fishes that feeds directly from the water column such as anthias, angels and tangs. But all is not lost, most reefers reccommend flooding slightly more during feeding so that the LNH will learn where are how food is being introduced and consumed in your tank and will eventually learn to swim up to the water surface during feeding time. Do note that pellets may take time to be recognized as food. Thus start with mysis or frozen food. HTH

Personally, I believe www.deltecusa.us should be the official site for Deltec and Rowa products in the US.