Gouldian

Hi Bro, ORP controllers are commonly used by reefers to control ozone generation. Below are some links with more info: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-12/rhf/feature/index.php http://www.aquaristsonline.com/blog/water-...-potential-orp/ http://www.athiel.com/lib5/redox.htm http://www.ozoneapplications.com/info/orp.htm HTH

Bro, Not sure whether it helps but I believe there are several contacts in the below thread. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?...mp;#entry698163 HTH

Hi, I believe it is a Speckled butterfly fish Chaetodon citrinellus. http://www.julianrocks.net/fish/littlefish...inellus5301.jpg HTH

I think it applies to everyone. In our chase for quick recognitions / success, we may err. But I guess time will heal.

Hi bro, Below is a link to answer your question: http://americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquari...rilization.html Just for your info, I don't use UV and don't think its crucial to a successful reef tank. HTH

Wow!!! To me that's the right way to reef: - taking time and letting nature takes it course. Many a times, we see enthusiasts throwing in $$$ for a quick solution only to de-comm after a short period.

Hi bro, If you intend to go for "reverse photo-period" most will usually peg the timing to the main tank lighting cycle. e.g. Main Tank Lights On - 10am, Main Tank Lights Off - 8pm = 10 Hours Refugium Lights On - 8pm, Refugium Lights Off - 10am = 14 Hours HTH

Hi bro, I using Alpheus distilled water, got it from Candid Water Cooler. Not sure how much they are selling now, my was an old contract. HTH

Hi Bro, I am having the same problem you are facing due to my busy schedule the past few weeks, have not been diligent with my weekly maintenance. Finally, managed to do a total re-scape, re-position tunze, clean skimmer cup, change carbon and rowa. I am now noticing a reduction. I believe the control measure mentioned in wetwebmedia and am confident that if you keep up with your routine maintenance, you will be able to control the situation. HTH

Here's some read: http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/...em.php?news=410 http://www.amonline.net.au/fishes/fishfacts/fish/prhinor.htm http://www.izuzuki.com/Zukan/Fish/tora/minamiGP.html http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_...20rhinorhynchos HTH

The guru of sandbed and plenum have recently wrote about this issue just few months back. Check the below link for more info: http://www.instantocean.com/sites/InstantO...3_Fall_2007.pdf

Hi Bro, As per below link, cyanobacteria bloom due to many reasons and in order to rid them you need a multi-prong approach. "Blue-green slime algae growth should be avoided on several fronts. By way of limiting nutrients, through careful feeding of appropriate foods and limiting use of supplements, proper lighting, adequate filtration, circulation and aeration, and stocking of competing photosynthetic life. Should you have a massive outbreak of Cyanobacteria, look to the root causes detailed here and attack your BGA problems at their root causes: lack of competing photosynthates, overabundance of chemical foods, and stagnant, low oxygenated water. Beware of chemical fixes for these noisome algae types. They don’t work in the long term, and may well poison your livestock in the short." See link for more details: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm HTH

Hi bro, There are indeed many yellow corals in nature, porites and tubastraea are available commonly in yellow. Here's an example of a yellow brain. http://www.oneatlantic.net/images/Brain_coral.jpg Maybe, you would like to post of pix of your coral for the bros here to advise. The worst situation will be you have a bleached brain. HTH

Hi bro, Reason why some reefers run their refugium 24hrs is that they wanted to prevented single cell algae from going asexual. Cheato is supposed to be multi-cellular and thus you need not keep your refugium lighted 24/7. However, most who keep Cheato will light the refugium on a reverse cycle - which means that the lights will turn on when the main tank light are off and off when the main tank lights are on. This is supposed to stablize the pH of your system - for having too many organism respirating in your system without photosynthesis may drive the pH down. HTH

Hi bro, Different skimmers and different tank conditions will produce different colored skimmate. Getting green colour skimate should not be a cause of alarm, neither should you be overly concern in getting 'kopi' skimmate. I only get 'kopi' skimmate when my tank is not doing well or I have overfed, the rest of the time, I only get 'teh-o poh'. Hehe Bio-balls will become nitrate factory if you allow detritus to build up. Also, do note that nitrate is the end product of nitrifications whereby the more harmful ammonia and nitrite is being converted into the less harmful nitrates. So if ammonia and nitrite are plenty, you will still get high nitrates. HTH

Wow... even after so much neglect, you still manages to amaze us with just simple pix of your coralines encrusted tunze.

Hi Johnny_Blaze, Below in my opinion, are the differences: KR Media - Kalkwasser (Calcium hydroxide) How it works - Using pump or stirrer to suspense the kalk mix (kalk + fresh water) inside the reactor. Fresh water from reservior is pump into the reactor and exit into sump. Usually used in conjunction with a fresh water top up system. Cost of ownership: <$500 Ease of usage: Easy Remarks: Recommended for fish only, soft corals and mixed reef with low calcium demand CR Media - Calcium carbonate, Aragonite, proprietory recipe etc Mechanics - Media is placed in the reactor with tank water being pump into the reactor. Reactor comes with a re-circulation pump that provides circulation within the reactor. Carbon dioxide is injected into the reactor to lower the pH thereby melting the media in the reactor. Calcium rich water exit reactor into tank. Cost of ownership: >$800 Ease of usage: Intermediate Remarks: The preferred method for tanks with high calcium demand such as SPS dominated tanks. HTH

Hi bro, The problem with the noise is due to the scratched impellor, this is usually cause by substrate/debris being suck into the pump. 1) If the problem is just on the impellor, you can easily replace it with the local agent or online. 2) If the impellor housing is also scratched then it will be more tricky because you will need to replace the whole needlewheel pump which is not cheap. IMHO, don't think Reef Octopus will be on par with a H&S. HTH

Hi bro, If both side also have air coming out means that the no retrun valve needs to be changed liao. HTH

Me no expert but I believe this is a cleaner wrasse.

Hi bro, What you have belongs to the Anampses genus but not sure which species. Hope the below link can shed some light. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/w...mpses/index.htm http://fishbase.org/Summary/SpeciesSummary.php?id=4916 http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-08/hcs3/index.php Do note that they have poor survival records in captivity. HTH

Here's a link of the said fish for additional info. http://filaman.ifm-geomar.de/summary/Speci...FTOKEN=75896690 HTH

Sorry that such things happened to you. Maybe its better to custom-build your next tank rather than buying ready-made tank.

Hi Mark, Happy New Year! I am interested in the Coralife Tong, is it still available?

Upz for a set of solid equipments