Gouldian

Wow, seems like you are trying out sps too - looking good!

Maybe can try here... http://www.wildsingapore.com/wildfacts/porifera/porifera.htm http://www.wildsingapore.com/wildfacts/por.../smoothblue.htm

Hi bro, You can use the search box of the right of the below link to ID your sponge. http://www.spongeguide.org/ HTH Just realized that they only cover Caribbean sponges only... sorry can't help much....

I am one of the many people who never pay attention to the flight safety demo, I think this will grab my attention.

Pygmy will be a challenge, it will be good if he can consider bringing in dwarfs seahorse (H. zosterae), was just talking about it last night.

Easy, blackout the tank for the next couple of days. Anyway, cuttlefish and lionfish fare better in low light condition. You can also add some carbon and PO4 media at the same time. For this kind of species tank try not to add any corals to further challenge your husbandry as your options to deal will nuisance algae will greatly reduced. HTH

Hi Bro, got mine from Reef Depot.

Great job! Hope to see more of this interesting creatures here.

Whenever I get new coral, I will use Coral RX and have seen some good results. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/4/aafeature2 HTH

Nice frontosa, is it yours too? Upz.

Bro, I believe that's a beckett skimmer from Bio Ocean.

Hi bro, IMHO its better to separate the sulphur beads and the calcium carbonate with some sponge.

I understand, anyway Aquabee is just as good. And like Ehiem, the distributor carries spare parts.

pH 8.6 should be alright. Do note that pH will fluctuated during lights on and off and also at different parts of a large system. pH will usually be the lowest before lights on as after lights off, respiration will slow push the pH low. So it is not uncommon to have pH fluctuating from 7.9 to 8.9 in the course of a day. If you have a pH monitor, you can constantly monitor the pH swing between lights on and off and from this you will be able to know the healthy pH fluctuation in your tank. So what you need to do is to do a kH test, if kh is good then there should not be a cause of concerns. HTH

Thanks for your Upz.

Yes, Kalkwasser which is calcium hydroxide. From my limited knowledge hydroxide have higher pH than carbornate thus adding too much kalk will increase the pH while Ca and kH may not increase much. That's why tanks with high calcium demands (stonies dominated) will need to install a CR or dose 2 parts solutions rather than just dose kalkwasser to maintain the parameters. HTH

Wow, that's bad. Mebner pump are manufactured for pond and fountain applications. When you first posted that your tank comes with Mebner pumps, I thought it was fishy that's why asked you to contact Main Land and hinted you to change to Eheim. But I never thought that the situation is this bad. Anyway, hope all goes well for you from now on. Happy reefing

Upz

Upz

Yup loved tuxedo urchin, been wanting to get a small specimen for quite sometime liao. Just heard that CF have some. I like them because, besides nuisance algae, they will also feed on coralines. This is always welcome in tanks that run CR and have coralines growing too fast and compete with stony corals.

Since you are studying buffer, you may want to share your insights.

Bro, this is just my layman understanding nia... :paiseh:

Hi bro, I'll attempt to answer your queries as much as I can: pH (power of Hydrogen) is a measurement of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. A pH of 7 is considered to be "neutral", neither acid or alkaline. Thus a reading above 7 = alkaline and below 7 = acidic. In our tank situation pH will go on a downtrend due to the addition of acid. These acids come from various sources are : 1) excess carbon dioxide (CO2) from respiration caused by lack of sufficient gas exchange 2) nitric acid from biological filtration (nitrification) 3) organic acids from metabolic wastes. Respiration and metabolic wastes are a part of the ocean, but the reason that sea water pH does not change is that the water contains a number of chemicals, such as bicarbonate, calcium, carbonate, borate and hydroxide, all of which act as natural "buffers" that prevents the drop in pH. In captive environment, pH can be maintain buffers such as carbonate and bi-carbonate. carbonate can be measure KH or dKH. The amount of "buffers" in sea water determines the alkalinity. When respiration and metabolic wastes increase, buffers within the tank will be used to react and maintain the pH. However, when the buffers have been consumed, pH will start dropping. Thus you will usually notice a drop kH before you notice a drop in pH. Also, if you kH is normal and the pH is slightly low, you can sometime remedy the situation with having better aeration. Ca is another ion that is needed by the livestocks for health and growth. Ca have a close relationship with kH as calcium carbonate, so when adding too much calcium carbonate, you will also notice increase in kH. Calcium can be liberated into free form calcium for a short period before precipitating into calcium carbonate. The period of calcium remaining a free ion depends on many factor 1 of which is due to magnesium (mg), thus keeping mg at optimum level will ensure calcium free ion be available in your tank for longer. This is also why, calcium have to be supplemented frequently even though we have sand bed derive from aragonite/oolitic. HTH

American Marine Pinpoint Monitor (without probe) - $60

Milwaukee pH Controller for sale (without probe) - $120