Gouldian

Sometimes the temperature may not be from your equipments, if your room temperature is 30 degrees it will be hard for the tank to maintain at 28 degrees. If you suspect your equipment, you can remove it and let in run in a pail of water. Measure the temperature of the water before and after the addition and you will have an idea. HTH

Moving to correct sub-forum.

Hi Stephen, Most sensitive electronics may need "soft start and stop" function to ensure longer life span. But I don't think the chiller electrical wirings and performance may suffer from such overwrite. The part that is likely to be affected with the the chiller temp controller but this is usually redundant once the external controller is in play.

Hi KY, * No further relays needed * Plug the external temp controller directly into the wall socket * Set the temperature * Plug the chiller plug into external controller socket If your chiller temperature setting is stuck at lower that desired temperature, the above method will work well without you needed to de-comm the old controller.

Sad to know that you decided to decomm. Give me a call when you free to chat...

Glad all is well.

Thread moved to a more appropriate sub forum.

Hi bro, These are micro bubbles, there are quite common in new set up due to the following reasons: 1) Air bubbles trap in new pipeworks - will diminish after some time.If problem persist, check pipe joints to ensure that are properly siliconed or white taped. 2) Air bubbles created by skimmer being sucked into return pump - Add foam as bubble trap at the skimmer exit, add baffles plates between skimmer and return or shift skimmer slightly so that skimmer exit does not face return directly 3) Vortex created by return pump - Caused by the suction of a powerful return pump, try to increase the water level or use an elbow joint pointed downwards at the pump inlet to minimize sucking water from the top of the water column HTH

Hi KY, You don't have to remove and dismantle anything from your current chiller. * Most external controller will be wired between the main power supply and a power supply socket * The chiller will be plug into this power supply socket instead of the main power supply (wall socket) * A probe will be connected to the external controller * When the temperature climbs above the pre-set, the external controller will supply power to the socket and thereby the chiller will start running * When the temperature lowered to the pre-set, the external controller will cut supply to the socket and thereby the chiller stop running Hope that helps.

Can't see very well but I suspect its manjanos.

Up... your MH is a steal at @$200.

up...

Moved to the correct sub forum.

As requested.

Closed as requested.

up

I always thought the headaches was cuz by......

Met him in KL over Christmas, he told me the hassle is the feeding part, he uses food from several manufacturers notable one is Fauna Marin. According to him, he notice slow growth is he cuts back on the feeding.

Thread Closed as requested.

Ups, Do note that Catalina CO2 Tank D&D Regulator are included in the package - not cheap alternatives.

Up. Comes with CO2 tank and regulator. All you need is a T-off and you're in business. Potential buyer are welcome to see unit in operation before committing, definitely a good buy.

Lucky I ordered the 20k

The likely situation could be the newly acquired brain is stress and releasing mucus that interests the hermit. Good idea, seperate them and observe. Happy reefing.

Hi Joe, I personally believe so. I remember a couple of years back when reefers were trying out the carbon theory by adding sugar, vinegar and vodka. Most started well but eventually realized that their tank condition deteriorated. It was then theorized that adding carbon source may cultivate a mono culture of bacteria depending on which will be more dominant. Over the years, we have also seen the introduction of probiotics into many area in our life; from animal feeds to baby formulas. Thus, I believe introducing probiotics and then feeding them is better than just adding any carbon source as we do not know what strains of bacteria in currently in our tank and will eventually dominate. So far, I have had good experiences with Rowa, Prodibio, Pries and recently Microbe-lift.

Hi, Depending on the species, some hermit will feed on inverts and thus not reef-safe. From your description of the hermit being able to flip the brain; I believe the hermit should be quite huge and in my personal opinion, they will never be in my tank in the first place. The only hermit I trust are those tiny orange ones (1cm) that I got from Marine Life. Also, do note that most scavengers will not turn down a good meal if the inverts are weak and dying. So if your brain is doing well and you find that the hermit is stressing it too much, I suggest to remove the hermit. HTH