Gouldian

Thanks for sharing bro.

Joe, Keep for me...

It hard to answer your questions, there's now hard and fast rule to reefing, it depends on what is your requirements. I have seen people who kept 8 clown in a 20l tank with LR full of nuisance algae and the owners is happy with the set-up and I have also seen people with only add 2 to 3 fishes in a 700l tank and keep complaining that the fish load is too high. Our advises are generic to steer you away from failure but its your tank at the end of the day and you made the judgement call. Hope that helps.

From my experience your clownfishes will soon be wrestling for dominance even after you have upgraded to the 130l. Clownfishes don't school well and the most dominant (female) will soon be ruling the tank with its mate (2nd most dominant). Adding the anemone will encourage "roosting" behavior among the 5. Having so many clownfishes will deter you from adding any more fishes unless you have a super-sized skimmer or willing do more maintenance. Adding anemone is alright but do note: 1) Anemone are much more difficult to keep compared to fish only set-ups 2) Not all anemone will be readily accepted by the clownfish as its host 3) Anemone will move around stinging other denizens in order to find the best spot 4) Anemone may move and get pureed by your wave-maker or pump causing tank-crash 5) Anemone needs increased lighting 6) Anemone have lower tolerance to water parameters (temperature, nitrite, ammonia, pH etc) compared to fishes If you are willing to accept the above and is willing to set aside more time and money into your set-up then you may want to consider Bubble Tip Anemone (Entacmea quadricolor) aka BTA. Although not the natural host for Ocellaris or Perculas, BTA is one of the few anemone requiring lesser efforts to upkeep. Hope that helps.

Microbe-lift products can be found in Green Chapter (West) Pet Mart (East). If i remeber correctly should be around $16 for 8oz.

Try to add some ammonia source to start the cycling process. This can be 1/4 cube of brain shrimp, let it decompose in your tank, you will be able to register a spike in the ammonia followed by nitrite and then nitrate. Once ammonia and nitrite is zero and nitrate is around 5ppm or lesser, you can safely introduce fishes. As comycus has mentioned cycling takes 4-6 weeks. This is due to the fact that beneficial nitrifying bacteria multiplying takes longer time to multiplying and get to work. Hope that helps.

These images are self-rated NC16 (contains partial nudity and little violence) so no cause of alarm. As there are no closed up shots on the performing body parts. Anyway, the gonopods were out but I could not get a good pic of it using my mobile cam. Source: http://www.mda.gov.sg/Public/MediaClassification/FilmsAndVideos/Pages/RatingsFilmsandVideos.aspx

Job done, time to rest....

In-position... pant... pant... pant...

Engaging 1st gear.... Wrestling time

Dear all, Herewith are the pictures we have been waiting for: Getting into position

You don't need chiller to cycle your tank. Plum in the chiller when you need to introduce livestocks.

I tried it recently on my small tank with a pair of black ocellaris that i have not changed water for very long time (6months at least). After dosing the tank clouded however both fishes did not show signs of stress or deep breathing except for the initial shock of water turning cloudy. The next day, my tiny Aquarium Systems Duetto which I have also never maintained for more than 6 months stuck clogging. I removed it for rinsing in a pail of used sea water (10 litre), the water turned dark, thick reddish brown with gunk immediately and the stench was foul. I surmise that EasyNeo Marine actually precipitated the dissolved organic (cloudy water), binding them so that the filter are able to trapped them. With the dissolved organics trapped and removed through the servicing of the filter, the water clears dramatically (although not crystal clear compared to freshly mixed water). Good product, that I will use: 1) In the transportation of fishes 2) Increase filter performance to remove dissolved organics 3) Missing fishes and presumed dead 4) QT http://www.easylife.nl/asia/index.html?id=08

With regards the above way of cooking LRs, I am basing on the Activate Sludge treatment concept commonly used in the sewage industry. "The activated sludge process is a wastewater treatment method in which the carbonaceous organic matter of wastewater provides an energy source for the production of new cells for a mixed population of microorganisms in an aquatic aerobic environment. The microbes convert carbon into cell tissue and oxidized end products that include carbon dioxide and water. In addition, a limited number of microorganisms may exist in activated sludge that obtain energy by oxidizing ammonia nitrogen to nitrate nitrogen in the process known as nitrification. Bacteria constitute the majority of microorganisms present in activated sludge. Bacteria that require organic compounds for their supply of carbon and energy (heterotrophic bacteria) predominate, whereas bacteria that use inorganic compounds for cell growth (autotrophic bacteria) occur in proportion to concentrations of carbon and nitrogen. Both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria may exist in the activated sludge, but the preponderance of species are facultative, able to live in either the presence of or lack of dissolved oxygen. Fungi, rotifers, and protozoans are also residents of activated sludge. The latter microorganisms are represented largely by ciliated species, but flagellated protozoans and amoebae may also be present. Protozoans serve as indicators of the activated sluge condition, and ciliated species are instrumental in removing Escherichia coli from sewage. Additionally, viruses of human origin may be found in raw sewage influent, but a large percentage appear to be removed by the activated-sludge process. The success of the activated-sludge process is dependent upon establishing a mixed community of microorganisms that will remove and consume organic waste material, that will aggregate and adhere in a process known as bioflocculation, and that will settle in such a manner as to produce a concentrated sludge (return activated sludge, or RAS) for recycling. Any of several types of activated sludge solids separations problems indicate an imbalance in the biological component of this process. In the ideal "healthy" system, filamentous organisms grow within a floc (a large aggregate of adherent, or floc-forming, microorganisms, such as bacteria) and give it strength, with few filaments protruding out into the surrounding bulk solution. In such a system, there is no interference with the compaction and settling rates of the activated sludge prior to its recycling." Source: http://www.college.ucla.edu/webproject/micro7/studentprojects7/rader/asludge2.htm http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/water/wm/ww/tech/biol.htm Please feel free to comments and enlighten...

Hi bro, I will try to post some pics when I have some time over the weekends. Like you mentioned, cooking LRs can be a hassle if not done correctly but it is also not something that is very difficult if we know what it entails. So far, the water remains clear and I am not experiencing a foul smell. For my cooking process, this is what I did: 1) I did not use any skimmer - To remove the dissolved organics, I use bacteria and microbes 2) I did not use any powerhead or wave maker - For Aeration and Movement, I use Air-pump

Microbe-lift products can be found in Green Chapter (West), Pet Mart (East) and Fresh n Marine (Online). On Sunday a bro (Grateful) came over to my place to help scoop out the sandbed from my main tank and he was pleased with the clarity of the water in the plastic drum. Upon inspection, I also notice that the LRs surfaces are cleaner compared to the time when it was in my main tank. For those who knows me, my main tank have been running without lights for more than 6 months as I contemplate how I should solve my tank leaking problem. So technically, the LRs should already been very clean but with the addition of the GSC, I think the gunk have been bio degraded further by the microbes found in GSC. I intend to continue using the GSC until I managed to seal the leak, and when that happens, I am going to take a picture of the bottom of the drum which I believe will not have much gunk left. Will update again.

Just wanted to share a product I find helps in cooking LRs. Recently, I removed all my LRs to be placed in a 30g plastic drum while I finishes some work on my tank. As the work on the main tank has been delayed, I decided to cook my rocks as well. Herewith is the Instructions of cooking Live Rock by SeanT of RC. Instead of laboriously taking our the LRs one by one to swill, I wonder whether there is a better way of doing so. In the recent Marine Exhibition, I managed to meet with Wilson of Rein Biotech who is the current distributor of Microbe-Lift products in Singapore. He gave me a small booklet of some of the products by Micro-Lift and in it I saw Microbe-Lift Gravel & Substrate Cleaner which arouse my interest and began researching about it. I have been very pleased with Microbe-Lift products especially Special Blend and Nite-Out II, these 2 products have served me well and I am curious whether GSC will be able to effectively cooked my rocks. According to Microbe-Lift, The Gravel & Substrate Cleaner contains natural cellulose matter, selected biological accelerators and special microbes that biologically degrades organic sludge and muck with minimal disturbance therefore effective in aquarium sludge reduction. As the objective of cooking LRs is to have the bacteria consume all (or as much) organic material and PO4 stored amongst them, I feel that GSC will be able to do the job effectively. I bought a bottle yesterday and will be observing the the LRs as we go along. Please feel free to comments and advice.

Congratulations for a well planned and executed event! MASS is proud to be part of this meaningful event whereby we will be able to share our knowledge and create the awareness to promote conscientious captive marine aquarium keeping. Being part of the organizing team, I have witnessed the dedications and commitments needed for the event and look forward to having it again soon. Having said that, through this event, MASS have gain much insights towards the needs for us to provide more talks on the conscientious captive aquarium keeping thus those interested please feel free to contact to contact me or any of the MASS members.

There are a few shops at Kelantan Lane area that sells them, mostly 2nd hand and cost 1/2 of a blue note depending on size and which shop you buy from. HTH

Bro, I believe the 2 degree diff is not a user programmable setting. All this while, I am only aware that Teco is working on 2 degree difference, this supposed to be better as the chiller will not cut in and out frequently. Personally, I feel that 1 degree may be slicing the cake too thin and may not be needed even more most sensitive species. Anyway, do let us know if you managed to twitch it.

Good job!

Nice... It is always good to propagate and share. +1 for you.

YT sold and collected. Thread closed.

Item sold and collected. Thread closed.

My take with regards to cleaner wrasse is only to buy them from shop that have been known to keep them alive successfully alive. I personally believes there are many reasons why some shops have been known to sell them feeding and able to survive in captivity part of which could be the supply and part of it could be due to the shop's dedication and skills. Although cleaner wrasse is cheap compared to most other fishes, the environmental impact is huge if they are over-harvested due to hobbyist unable to keep them alive for long. As some of the seniors have mentioned, Marine Life (Henry) is one of the few LFS in Singapore able to provide feeding cleaner wrasse that last in our tank (the last one I got from Henry stayed with me 3 years before it was sold). Thus, I hope all of us will exercise caution when buying them.