Gouldian

Thread closed as requested.

Where got "I" only, at least someone help you with the clearing of your 4x2x2.

Welcome back to marine... camping here liao.

How lao, another teen gang incident! I think our security forces have been to engrossed with Terrorists and Traffic violations and have forgotten the importance of cleaning up street gangs! http://www.straitstimes.com/BreakingNews/Singapore/Story/STIStory_604990.html

Yup, one of the many uses of vaseline. For more, please see http://www.wackyuses.com/vaseline.html Beside the uses stated in the link above, vaseline can be used to prevent silicone from sticking to your fingers.

Move to correct sub-forum.

Added "WTS:" to topic title.

Bro,does it still need ballast in this case?

Thread Closed as requested.

Added "WTS:" into Topic Title and Amended "BM250" to "BM150".

Added "WTS:" into topic title and change "250" to "150".

Added "WTS:" into topic title.

Same skimmer as mine. Always good to read set-up threads.

Went for a fishing trip a few days ago and met a old friend selling lead sinker. Apparently he is 1 of the few guys supplying lead sinker to the shops. As seen from the image, he is using Stainless Steel instead on brass/copper hooks for the sinker thus it is more hardy. After enquiring his price, I thought I can post it here for the benefits of the bros and sis here. Sinker Size 4 - $1.00 Sinker Size 6 - $1.40 Sinker Size 8 - $2.00 Sinker Size 10 - $2.50 Sinker Size 12 - $3.00 Sinker Size 14 - $3.50 Sinker Size 16 - $4.00 Sinker Size 18 - $4.50 Sinker Size 20 - $5.00 Sinker Size 24 - $7.00 Those interested, can SMS Sim @ 90056726. Door to door deliver services for $50 and above, further 10% disc for $100 and above, Purchase $100 and above plus self collect - further 20% disc. ***Please note that I am not benefitting in anyway from the above posting, it purely a lobang I discovered and wanted to share*** Happy fishing....

Sorry to hear about what happen especially when you are nursing a new born. Heard from a friend who runs an agency, some of then may play this kind of tricks when their loans have been paid off, this is a quick way to return home especially for those who do not have much friends here. Neo garden is good, tried them many times.

Thread closed as requested.

Bro, The most effective is under-over-under-over, however due to the lack of space, you may try under-over-under. This is because most of the bubbles exiting th skimmer will be rushing to the top and lesser bubbles will go through the baffles. Best is to build baffles across the entire width of the tank. Keep about 20mm between the baffles for easy removal and siphoning of detritus. HTH

Ups... bought the Eheim air pump from RedStar yesterday he have taken care of it well and condition is like brand new.

Upz for your sales, saw the chiller personally last weekend and the condition is good.

1) Cleared all sandbed 2) House whatever leftover livestocks in unlit sump 3) Waiting for next step

Hi bro, Q1 - Yes, on the chiller 24/7 and leave it to the temperature controller to do its work. Unless, your room temperature is lower that your desired tank temperature (only happens in temperate country). Q2 - External temperature controller is good when you suspect your in-build temperature controller is not able to perform to your liking. Q3 - Keeping your condenser free from blockage with good cold air circulation will aid the performance of your chiller. External temperature controller do not increase the performance of the chiller. See - HTH

Hi bros, The condenser coil of your chiller /compressor performs a tough of ensuring your tanks are kept at optimum temperature. It takes the concentrated heat collected from your tank and dumps it into the room / outdoor. To get rid of the collected heat, the condenser coil has to move a lot of air. If the coil is dirty or other objects (cabinet door, additives) are too close to the conditioner unit, the fan in the outdoor coil can't move as much air as required for good performance and efficiency. This raises your electricity cost and may shorten the life of the unit. Thus, it is important to periodically clean the condenser coil with a brush and removes any dust, debris or equipments that may be blocking the efficient exchange of air near the condenser coil. For outdoor compressor unit, which will be more dirty, you may even want to wash it periodically. This should be done with caution, herewith are steps that I take: Wait for rain - for those staying in HDB, washing your condensor coil will make you the enemy of the block if you don't handle it correctly. When rains comes, all residents will close all windows and wouldn't care less of what you do to your condenser. OFF elctrical supply to the entire unit - No one likes to see a fried naked man hanging outside their block. Spray water on condensor fins - Avoid all electrical connections and electronics, if unsure concentrate on the fins portion only. Use Chemical - Do not use unless you know what you are doing and are confident that you are able to rinse off any remnants as they will corrode your coil! Wait: Wait for 30mins or more for any water to drain off before you turn on electric supply. For indoor unit, just frequent brushing will do, do not try washing (unless your know what you are doing) as they are not build weather-proof like the outdoor unit.

Hi guys, Most of us have read and given different advises about the usage of GAC. This article by Richard Harker to be detailed and comprehensive. As the article is too long, I will simply insert the link below for your necessary reading. Richard Harker GAC Part 1 Richard Harker GSC Part 2 An interesting point to note is that he concluded that GAC "through high-volume power filters should be avoided".

Photo-adaptation In the context of this article, the term photo-adaptation is used to describe the ability of the organism to alter its structure and function in response to the characteristics of the light in its environment. When a coral from the wild or another tank environment is placed in a reef aquarium it has to photoadapt to the various aspects of light — the intensity, spectral distribution and direction of light. The basic adaptation mechanisms employed are various combinations of change in the chlorophyll content per unit surface area, change in the number and size of zooxanthellae, changes in coral morphology to increase the surface area available for light capture, and changes in respiration rate. More recent research is indicating that the corals may, in fact, harbor different types of zooxanthellae and the corals may be able to change the mix of the zooxanthellae as a photo adaptation response. It has been shown that most of our aquariums are limited in light when compared to light in the natural reef environment. Often the light intensity may be one-third to one-quarter of what the coral receives in the wild. Yet we find that corals live and prosper (as far as growth is concerned) under these conditions. The scientific literature has some interesting results on photoadaptation. For example, Porter et al. (1984) have provided data for Stylophora pistillata adapted to high and low irradiance levels, and examined photosynthetic parameters of intense light-adapted colonies at high and low light levels and low light-adapted colonies at high and low light levels. The results showed that low light-adapted colonies have much higher photosynthetic capacity at low light than the intense light-adapted colonies. Corals growing at higher light irradiance are often much lighter in color than colonies of the same species in lower irradiance regions. Interestingly, Falkowski and Dubinsky (1981) found that the difference in pigmentation in S. pistillata was not due to the density of zooxanthellae, but due to the average pigment content of the zooxanthellae. Another interesting result that could explain why corals live and grow well in our poorly lit aquariums is the research finding that the coral adaptation to low light was faster than adaptation to intense light. Corals may also show morphological changes in response to irradiance. In the wild, colonies that are often hemispherical in shape in shallow waters become increasingly plate-like in deeper waters. In aquariums, most hobbyists have noticed that when fragments of the same coral are planted in different locations in a tank, they may often grow in different shapes. These morphological differences may not be completely attributable to irradiance, but may be a combination of several factors that include irradiance and water motion. Corals in the wild are subject to light from various directions, and different parts of the coral may be photoadapted to different light characteristics based on its position and relative exposure to the light. When placed in an aquarium, the light is typically unidirectional (from the top), and parts of the coral that were once subjected to light may now be shaded, whereas parts that were shaded may be exposed to more light. Hence, different parts of the coral may have to photoadapt differently. Often we find that the underside or shaded portions of the coral colonies will bleach, and this is due to the change in the light reaching the bottom of the coral colony. Sometimes the tips may bleach, and this may be due to coral tips receiving too much light and its failure to adapt rapidly. Source: www.fishchannel.com

Up for the ho liao (good stuff).