Gouldian

Upz for Aqualight Retrofit with DD Actinic Tubes. Price revised to $50..... Self collect @ Punggol Central.

Reserved for NO2NO3.

Reserved for Eddy Lim.

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Hi Guys, Brand: Coralvue, USA Descriptions: 400w E-Ballast with internal fan Condition: 9/10 Remarks: Comes without plug Self Collect: Punggol Central Price: $100.00

Hi Guys, Brand: Hagen Marina, Germany Descriptions: Marina Micro Submersible LED - 1 3-way Hub and 2 - LED Light sets Condition: 9/10 Remarks: Use as night light Self Collect: Punggol Central Price: $20.00

Brand: Aquaz Descriptions: 2 x 39w T5HO, British 3-pin Plug Condition: 5/10 Remarks: without tubes and reflectors, transformer faulty Self Collect: Punggol Central Price: $10.00

Hi Guys, Brand: Aqualight, Germany Descriptions: 2 x 39w T5HO, German Plug Condition: 9/10 Remarks: 2 x DD Actinic Plus but without Reflectors Self Collect: Punggol Central Price: $60.00

Hi guys, Just wanted to know whether any of you guys drink Chinese Tea? http://paulhata.articlesbase.com/sup...ea-501610.html http://chinesefood.about.com/od/chin...a/whitetea.htm

I've guessed as well. Anyway like you, I have been embarrassed several time by auto correct. Comes join us: Here

Hi bro, By the way its Chaeto, short for Chaetomorpha. Biopellet biologically removes Nitrates through bacteria while by Cheato depends on the algae to absorb nitrate for its growth; there isn't a single method that is best, it all depends on your budget and system. In my personal opinions, most reefers fail to realized that in order for Cheato to removes significant nitrates it needs to be growing / thriving. In order to them to be thriving, you need to have sufficient lights to encourage photosynthesis therefore promote growth. It depends, if your biopellets is so effective that it removes all nutrients (Ammonia to nitrates to phosphates) them macro algae will die but the chances are slim. This is because macroalgae are not single nutrient obligate feeders. Most reefers are worried about algae going asexual, that is they turn white and die-off thereby releasing the absorbed nutrients back into the water. But this situation usually happens to Caulerpa (Nuisance) rather than Chaeto. Further to that, this situation can be remedied by lighting your macroalgae 24/7 or frequent periodic trimming. From your post, I gather you have decided on biopellets, thus I will not dwell on macroalgae to confused you further. Do share if your experiences after installing the biopellets.

Actually plants / algae require more than 1 nutrients for the different aspect of their life. Nitrogen is essential to plants / algae for the production of proteins and other nitrogenous compounds. It is normally available from nitrate ions found in the soil / water, which in turn may be derived from ammonia and ammonium ions. See attached pdf for more info. Hope that helps. 595-607-1-PB.pdf

I like chaeto too but have limited sump space.

The biggest I can find. In my current tank, the average rock size is 1ft but have several that is more than 1.5ft. The same logic applies to sand-bed, many research has been done to indicate that sand bed less than 3in will not have anaerobic zones, thereby most recommends a sandbed thickness of 6in. Thus I surmise that LR needs to be large in order to have anaerobic zones. This is just my 2cents. I find fist size is too small to have anaerobic zones within the rock.

Sorry to hear about your tank. Ups for a nice reefer!

Hi bro, Most hobbyist DIY their own algae scrubber. I believe Iwarna sells scrubber previously, you may want to PM them. Yes, there are some reefers installing the scrubber before the sump. They will then place GAC and skimmer in sump to remove any yellowish tinge usually associated with algae scrubber. You can check on this link if you feels that algae scrubber is the solution for you - If you already have good surface water movement plus a skimmer, you should have sufficient oxygen level in your tank. Be it Nitrate reactors, algae scrubber, chemical, water changes or biological, you need to research more of their pros and cons and decides what suits you best! For me, I used to be happy with nitrate reactors but have decomm it and switches to biological nitrate reduction - with this, it meant that I need to increase the number of large live rocks in my tank so that I have sufficient anaerobic areas for denitrification. Hope that helps.

Besides the above valuable information shared, I hope to share the below to let you have an different perspectives on Nitrate. Nitrate, although is frown upon in our hobby especially if you intend to keep reefs tank rather than Fish only. It is a necessary by-product of nitrification. In a typical aquarium: Fish wastes are process by heterotrophic bacteria more precisely Saprophytic Bacteria into ammonia When ammonia and oxygen is present autotrophic nitrifying bacteria will began to multiply The 1st type of nitrifying bacteria (e.g. Nitrosomonas marina) will process ammonia into nitrite 2nd type of nitrifiers namely nitrospira process the nitrite into nitrate When you measure nitrate, it only means that your nitrification process has been establish and most fish only keepers will be happy to keep it as it is. But for reef keepers, we need another process to convert the nitrate into harmless nitrogen gas. This can be done through: Denitrification Chemical reduction Natural absorption by plants and algae Nitrate reactors Frequent water changes - "Dilution is the Solution for Pollution" Anthony Calfo Denitrification takes place when oxygen is depleted. Denitrification only takes place in anaerobic environments where oxygen consumption exceeds the oxygen supply and where sufficient quantities of nitrate are present. These environments may include certain Deep Sand Bed, inner core of large Live Rocks or in Nitrate Reactors. AZNO3 is one of the more popular chemical reduction of nitrate and many have been happy with its results. However, due to its prohibitive price it is not the solution for long term usage. There are also many alternative brands on the market which is better on the pockets. You may speak with some of our sponsors. Another tried and tested way of keeping nitrate is check is through natural absorption, plants or for our hobby algae and even clams will uses nitrate as a fertilizer. You can do so by growing some macro-algae either directly in your main tank or in a refugium or in a algae scrubber. You can also reduce nitrate using a production nitrate reactor or a diy reactor. Reactors were initially used by large public aquariums but increase in popularity as the hobby matures and hobby grade reactors becomes available. Finally, a simple way to keep nitrate in check by doing frequent partial water change. In conclusion: Nitrate is the end result of nitrification Nitrate is not an issue for non-reef tank and some livestocks (inverts) with high nitrate tolerance Nitrate can be controlled using the methods mentioned above Hope that helps.

Herewith is the conclusion of the article: Conclusion: The recommendation based on the clear effect that the use of carbon had on the study fish is not to use activated lignite carbon in marine aquariums housing fish species susceptible to HLLE. Other means of water quality management should first be explored; water changes, non-carbon chemical filtration, or foam fractionation. Extruded pelleted carbon may be more suitable, especially if used sparingly. No conclusions can be drawn regarding the use of carbon filtration products that were not tested. If you do use carbon, rinse it well in reverse osmosis water prior to use, employ a foam fractionator, and do not place the carbon in a high water flow reactor (that might serve to break the carbon granules up into finer particles). Source: http://www.coralmagazine-us.com/content/activated-carbon-hlle-smoking-gun-found In the article, the fingers were pointed conclusively at lignite carbon and carbon dust. Lignite if I am not wrong, is about 70 percent carbon. Bituminous is around 90 percent carbon. Anthracite is consists of 99.9% carbon. I believe lignite and bituminous are commonly used in the hobby. I prefer to use virgin bituminous GAC rather than the former and I have never encounter HLLE in my tank before. I was given some China made GAC branded by a local company and the results wasn't good when I used them in our MASS set-up but we did not observe any HLLE during the 3 days. But I personally will not use them in my own tank due to the amount of "fines" in that small package - to me it is unacceptable. The Reef Tank post on Carbon: http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f6/activated-carbon-life-test-results-118497.html Virgin Bituminous: http://www.magnavore.com/closerlook/pcrcl.html Georgia Aquarium Using Carbon Filtration: http://www.water.siemens.com/en/applications/aquatic_water_treatment/Pages/ga_aquarium.aspx Why some reefers use lignite: http://www.fishchannel.com/media/saltwater-aquariums/aquarium-frontiers/reef-aquarium-granular-activated-carbon.aspx.pdf I guess the verdicts is still out there...

I am currently using Elos and like it, I trusted their results due to the following points: Calibrated lab droppers: the accuracy of a titrimetric test kit is, in fact, strictly related to the precision of the drop size. RealColor technology: the precision of a colorimetric test kit is strictly related to the precision of the color chart. In these test we use an accurate system to calibrate the color chart compared to the reagents. The validation of each batch of reagents through the use of NIST (National Institute of Standard and Technology) certified samples. The strict control of the supply and storage chain: test kit reagents are very delicate, their accuracy is significantly influenced by storage. For this reason we keep our stock strictly under control and we suggest, to all our retailers, to do the same. The use of Lab Quality reagents: to grant a constant, precise result like only professional products may permit. Not only are the reagents included in all elos test kits precise but we use non toxic reagents whenever possible. As for the D&D, I believe their selling points are as follows: Specifically developed with Merck (Internationally renowned lab test kit manufacturer) for the aquarium market place Comes with 2 flat bottomed glass test tubes and a black polystyrene block, which allows the user to look down onto the colour card without any stray light or colour to alter the perception of which is the correct reading The second test tube is used as a standard so that any colouration of the aquarium water does not affect the ability of the user to read off the concentration. The test kit with its nice plastic case contains sufficient chemicals to carry out 100 tests after which time a refill is available rather than replacing the whole kit. I believe the above 2 are the best test kits available in the market now. Most of us who frequently use test kits will find that the lacking in accuracy when comes to the dropper, re-agent or even difficulty in reading the low range due to the colour chart provided or stray lights from our room. I have even encountered once when the colour charts differs between packs on the same brand! I have recently gotten a set of H20 too and will be doing some comparison soon.

I believe the Philippines yellow tang you mentioned should be Acanthurus pyroferus. The yellow tang mopiko is selling is Zebrasoma flavescens.