Gouldian

Hi guys, Letting go Tetra Aqua Art Tank with cabinet for $80/-. It was only used once and subsequently went into the store. http://www.seapets.co.uk/products/aq...m-kit-60l.html WYWYG, no scratches but don't expect the tanks to be brand new condition. White patches on the right are sticker stains, can be removed easily with lighter fluid. FCFS. Self collect from Hougang St 52. PM me to arrange for collection. Herewith are the photos taken on 17/5/12.

Bro, any comments of acclimating? What's your take?

Hi guys, Spoke with a few hobbyists recently during a shipment of star snails. They were disturbed that why Marine Aquarist Society (Singapore) are not discouraging reefers to buy such snails that are not meant for reefs. They pointed to me that Dr Ron Shimek has wrote an article about it in Reef Keeping 2004 Issue, I cannot recall that article during that time thus did not comment about it. In the above mentioned article, Dr Ron mentioned "Many of the actual individuals of Astraea offered for sale in the reef aquarium hobby come from the cooler waters of Baja California. " and "Given that they also are not warm water animals, they tend to die young and leave a good-looking corpse in the aquarium". So should we stop buying Astraea? Yes, I would think so until we have further information. So how about those reefers that have bought or currently have "Astraea" snails in their tank? Good news, these snails will still be able to serve you well. From what I have found, the "Astraea" snails that we get in Singapore are in fact, Astralium snails from Philippines, these of course are from tropical reefs. In fact, IMHO they are better cleaner compared to Turbos or Tronchus plus the fact that they looks better, remain small, affordable and hardworking. However, I would like to take this opportunity to share another part of Dr Ron's article I find is lacking in Singapore. "The complexity of internal anatomy in snails is one major reason why some of the Trochoideans seem to die easily, or otherwise not live through their full life spans in our tanks. Although most folks probably never give it a second thought, snails have a complex internal morphology. In many ways, the internal structures that the snails possess have allowed them to be very successful. It is not, however, a particularly "rugged" morphology when subjected to some specific stresses. Snail tissues often seem to be composed of thin layers of tissue that are very filmy and diaphanous. Consequently, they often suffer significant damage during water changes or during transport from a dealer's to an aquarist's tank. The circulatory system of snails may be very complex (Figure 5), and many of its vessels and channels can rupture under stresses caused by changes in salinity. The vessels in the kidney are numerous and delicate, and may rupture if the animal is not slowly acclimated when being moved from one set of water conditions to another. If the acclimation is too fast, the animal will die in a few minutes to a few weeks. If the snails are drip acclimated, the acclimation time may need to be on the order of five to ten hours for maximal survival." I hope the above will encourage our reefers to acclimate their snails slowly. Happy reefing. Source: http://reefkeeping.c...05/rs/index.php http://www.chucksadd...com/snails.html http://www.gastropod...NIDAEASTRAEINAE

Air bubbles are considered flaws as these is where the glasses are not bonded together properly. When the tank is submitted to daily stress, more air bubbles will appear or the air bubble will get larger and finally leak.

Some of these data are gather straight from the packaging of the respective manufacturer and some may not be accurate. I have used both Aqua Bee and Eheim before and I can attest that the AB definitely is not able to withstand higher head compared to Eheim. Nevertheless, it is a good reference.

Agree wholeheartedly, his skills, workmanship and attention to details is one of the best I have experienced in this hobby. I hope to meet with you soon one day. Bro, Can PM me his contact?

Just like to share this pix I took today at a LFS. Mespilia globulus on the left and Tripneustes gratilla on the right. M. globulus generally are smaller than T. gratilla and thus I usually recommend the former for smaller tanks.

Yah, think X.motillai looks better...

Must be super nice just from your descriptions.

Lemon, you are right, posted X. montillai after you mentioned about it. I don't have any image on X. margaritaceus. But from my limited knowledge, the owner of this image I posted mentioned this fish was caught in PNG.

Cut out the exposed silicone on all joints, seal with new silicone and cure for 1 week.

Bro, how many you getting this time??? lol

*** Move thread to Kopi Tiam.

I use a AB2000 for pump water to the evaporator and back to sump.

Got mine from Teck Hoe, for reefers who frequent Malaysia, can get from there too, prices are very competitive there and many reefers there uses them vs Singapore.

My current tank is 48 x 30 x 30 and was build in end 2004. During that time, being prudent, I opt to have top and bottom bracing. However, after 6 years of usage, I discovered a leak at the bottom of my tank. I have to de-comm and finally realized that although I have top and bottom bracing, the bottom brace was only 1 inch front and back on the long side. Did I made the wrong selection and blame the tank-maker? No, because I approved his proposal and also I don't think all tank-makers will plan for a tank that will last more than 3 year but compromise on aesthetic.

Technically, brace is just another piece of glass use to provide support to prevent the glass pieces from 'opening' up like a flower. It is usually stick to the four edges and/of the center of the long side of the tank. However aesthetically braces can be unsightly and cumbersome. For long tanks, the top and bottom bracing is a must and some tanks that is 3ft and below will only have bottom bracing. Different tank-makers will advise you accordingly base on their experience, skill and also the silicone they use.

For me, Glass work: I will usually check on the glass edges, the silicone used and also how the glasses are bonded together. Those will poor workmanship usually will have air bubbles, rough edges or minute misalignment. Carpentry: check on the laminates edges - I prefer stiff laminates veneers rather than the roll form laminates that is cheaper but peel easily, hinges - pay for the branded hinges, plywood used for the cabinet - marine ply are expensive and a reduce in thickness will only show after a few years, frame - ensure that they are chenggai or kapo wood. Overall planning: This is the one that differentiate good tank-maker from a glass cutter. An experienced tank-maker will be able to consider all the needs in your entire set-up. This is important if you do not want to end up with un-serviceable in your set-up. Imagine having a fish jump into your overflow box and you are unable to retrieve or having to dismantle half the pipe-works in order for you to change your filter wool. As per all things in life, ask, compare, observe before you commit.

Bro, do check on your closed zoas, look out for nudi (touch wood)....

For me, I bought air-con compressor, temperature controller and contactor and got my Air-con contractor to do the piping and installation. But instead of an exposed drop-in coil, I chose a concealed evaporator from Resun. It is similar to the one below but mine is from Resun.

Sure its Gem Tang not Black Tang with white spots???!!! Lol. Nicee.....

I don't think yours is a Tuxedo Urchin - Mespilia globulus, rather it could be a Pin Cushion Urchin - Tripneustes gratilla. Nevertheless, upz for your sales.

mjck is right. I believe problem lies with the regulator and tank assembly. Did you white-tape the threads of the assembly? White tapping will minimise micro-leaks which is the cause of condensation. If the above is done and your soap water leak test yield nothing, I suggest swapping the regulator. i have a spare but you need to self collect and return.

Just in case the 8ppm consist of Chloromine, you can add water conditioners to neutralize it. Average TDS for tap is 35-40ppm. Average acceptable TDS for DI is less than 10ppm. Average acceptable TDS range for distilled water is less than 5ppm. I believe it is commercially not possible to have water to be in 0ppm for long, that is why wafer fab has to treat their already 'cleaned' water supplies before using.