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Everything posted by Gouldian
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Be careful hor, dun bite off what you can't chew. Better automatic before I order pig head and red paint.
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No worries, Kok Hui, we are after all neighbors , maybe one day my son and you daughter will be in the same school. As for the pictures on my tank, I guess we have to wait till one kind sould to be free to take for me.
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No offense Chris, I think you better get some senior to assist you with you tank stocking. 2 months + tanks if not careful will experience "crash'. (Touch wood). But seriously, kindly consider the above.
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wah lao i paiseh liao
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hehehe... Dispar is right. Especially the Vietnamese maximas - scutes are not that prominient.
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http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=33375
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By the way, the don't feed on corals and are considered reef safe. Thus it is not true that they are responsible to the demise of your corals. I believe there are other reasons to the lost of your corals. The most common reason for corals demise in both captivity and the wild is water conditions, not predatory.
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Dear Chris, The 1st picture you have is a Synchiropus picturatus and the 2nd is a Synchiropus stellatus. The Synchiropus AKS Dragonets live in sandy bottom foraging for benthic invertebrates. Unlike most fishes the Dragonets needs to constantly forage and hunt for live foods to sustain themselves. It is not uncommon to see them foraging around sponges as the holes in the sponge may play host to copepods that the Dragonets are hunting for. If your sponge is dying it may not be due to the Dragonets but rather may be due to other reasons such as your water conditions and also the handling of the sponge during and after purchase. I can't help but to notice that you are quite new here? Is your tank new too? For Dragonets are reccomended to tanks that are minimum 6mths and above. This is due to the above feeding requirements. So tanks that are more than 6mths and above generally will have more bio-diversity to sustain these beautoful fishes. Please feel free to ask as many questions as possible if you are unsure or you may choose to PM us.
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Aiyah, the shipment before the watanabe is the bellus. I get just the female. Anyway Terryz, should not be long before the next bellus shipment will arrive, Good luck, hope to see you posting soon.
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http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=33375
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I have a male watanabe and a female bellus. If you happens to be in NE please do drop by.
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I envy you Alfa! My AT died of no apparent reson after it started to feed on pellets. Anyway, I believe your AT is in good hands! Good luck with the "Red Carpet" treatment.
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Congrats! 1 - for finding a job, 2 - for getting a pair of watanabe! Very nice pair, I am sure you will like them. If you have got from SL, then it should be super stable liao. Btw, G. watanabe is the smallest of the Genicanthus growing to about 15cm. Good choice, just remeber to beef them up with lots of garlic before you release them into your main tank. (heard you went fallow)
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Six Line wrasse and purple fire fish
Gouldian replied to blackpuma's topic in FOWLR (Fish-only with Live-rock)
Hard to say. But the six liners are usually trouble makers. Thus, I suggest you stand by and observe. -
For Marine tank, we will require our tank glass to be minimum 10mm think. Most of the tanks sold in the shops are imported China or Taiwan tanks that only have 4-5mm think. They can only be used for fresh water. Thus most of us look for tank makers to customized our tank. There are a few reputable tank makers specializing in marine tank. I persoanlly likes the works of Geo Aquatic, he is the man behind some of the great looking tanks in both SRC & Arofanatic. Geo Aquatic Mr. Goh 94506753 Although my tank is not from him but he is the one I wanted for my next tank!
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Hi Des, I dun really bother to wait till there is a drop in PH/KH before changing the Kalkwasser. I usually change between 2-3 weeks.
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I dun mind. I will colect it from you next time we meet.
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Hi Des, I have used Reefez and Aquapharm and Tunze. As I am using the Magnetic Stirrer KR, the size of the Kalk is critical, thus I will only share my preference based on whether they works well with my KR. Aquapharm: Size of of Kalk inconsistent. Sometimes too big sometimes too small. Tunze: Size too fine for my KR, stirrer unble to effectively mix Kalk. Reefez: So far the best of the 3, consistent size and can be effectively stirred. Hope that helps.
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rowaphos or aquaz purphos better
Gouldian replied to LIM CHYE HUAT's topic in New to the Marine Aquaria Hobby
Personally I have tried both RowaPhos and PurePhos. I prefer the RowaPhos for the ability to absorb more quickly and last longer. However, I prefer the PurePhos for its availbility and also the price. If you don't have have too much a Phosphate problems and have a budget, PurePhos would be ideal. -
Being planktonic feeders, Swallowtails eat very frequently in very small amounts just like Anthias. Tangs are also frequent eaters but they definitely tends to eat and poops more than planktonic feeders. However, unlike some Anthias such as the Purple Queens. Swallowtails are able to switch their diets to accommodate captivity just like the hardy Dispar Anthias. (Dom????) As such, try to feed them at least 3 to 4 times a day in small amount and slowly reduce to your comfortable frequency. I feed only once a day. As they are planktonic feeders, it is difficult for them to take big morsels of food, thus try not to feed them pellets. One of the best size food are Cyclopeeze although I have seen LFS feeding them with Hikkari Mysis. For me, I am a believer of prepared frozen food. I will usually buy Henry's food, then further fortify it with: 1. Sturgeon eggs 2. Cyclopeeze 3. Aquaz Golden Pearls (different size) 4. Garlic 5. Zoecon or Selcon 6. Secret ingredients (cannot tell you ) 7. Additional proteins such as shrimps, sotong, scallop etc 8. Nori I strongly believe the above is the reason why I can feed 1 feed per day and all my fishes and corals are still healthy. Cuz the above recipe will cater to both carnivores and herbivores.
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Prata is actually Scolymia, they belongs to the family of Mussidae. The other members of the Mussidae family are Blastomussa, Cynarina, Lobophyllia and Symphyllia.
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Pot bellies are from temperate waters thus needs to be kept below 26 degree C.
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Where to get Genicanthus Herewith is the brief listing of LFS and species that they usually carries: Coralfarm: G. watanabe, G. caudovittatus, G. lamarkii, G. bellus, G. melanospilos SeaLife: G. watanabe, G. bellus, G. melanospilos Aquamarin: G. lamarkii Iwarna: G. lamarkii *Note: the above are not comprehensive as I only started checking out of the Genicanthus 5 months back. I will strongly encourage reefers to check out Genicanthus in both Coralfarm and Sealife due to the fact that the specimens that they have generally fairs better maybe due to their divers are mor careful and plus the fact that they have more species availble for your picking. However, please bear in mind that Genicanthus will usually made available in smaller quanity unlike the common Centropyge species. I personally waited 2 months for the G. bellus and 4 months for the G. watanabe.
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Criticise Like A Man But Apologize Like A Wimp
Gouldian replied to Gouldian's topic in General Reefkeeping_
Aquara - your opinions are greatly appreciated!. -
I really respect your wife for doing that! Anyway, deep down I also believes that are are well worth her efforts! Lets all soldier on together!