Gouldian

The iodide ion then is the desirable form of iodine, and it's what we want to put into our tanks. Iodide ions are considered to be necessary for calcification in stony corals, general health of soft corals, and molting in crustaceans. Source: http://www.reefs.org/library/article/e_edelman2.html

Aquarium & Accessories 1. 4’ x 2’ x 2’ Aquarium (WYSIWYG) - $250.00 2. Resun Chiller CL650 (less than 2yrs) - $250.00 3. AquaMedic BioFlotor Skimmer (less than 2yrs) - $150.00 4. Ocean Werks Fluidised Reactor C/W Compact 600 Pump (less than 1yr) - $40.00 5. Tunze 6060 C/W Sure Grip Magnetic Holder (less than 1yr) - $150.00 6. Algae Free Hammer Head Cleaner with spare pad (less than 1yr) - $50.00 7. 2 x 54w T5 (AquaMarin) Retro Lights C/W Moon Lights and ATI Tubes (less than 1yr) - $160.00 8. Atman Metal Halides (150w) Double Ended C/W 10kk BLV (less than 2 yrs) - $100.00 9. Aqua-Bee UP 3000 Pump (less than 1yr) - $100 10. Aqua-Bee UP 2000 Pump (less than 1yr) - $100 11. Portable Refractometer (less than 1yr) - $40.00 Fishes & Corals 1. 1 pair Flame Angel (Proven pair) - SOLD 2. 1 Flame Hawk - SOLD 3. 1 Yellow Tang - $30.00 4. 1 Brown Tang - $20.00 5. 4 Blue Chromis - $12.00 6. 1 pair Banggai Cardinal Fish (Breeding pair) - $25.00 7. 1 Sea Cucumber - $8.00 8. 1 Percula Clown Fish - $25.00 9. 1 Maxima Clam - SOLD 10. 1 Leather Coral - $7.00 11. 1 Star Polyps - $10.00 12. 30 kg of Live Rocks - $4/kg 13. 1 Brown Rhodactis colony - $6.00 Please contact him direct (Danny 96928378) as I am just helping to post.

Please contact him direct (Danny 96928378) as I am just helping to post.

Please contact him direct (Danny 96928378) as I am just helping to post.

Hi bros, My wife's uncle have called it quits and below are some pics of his tank and a lits of items he planning to sell. Please contact him direct (Danny 96928378) as I am just helping to post.

It depends on the growth rate and the individual species. As a general rule, most well-fed crustaceans in their youth will moulting more frequently then older or ill-fed crustaceans. Water parameters will not really be compromised in most tanks unless you have many carapaces / exoskeleton dis-integrating in your tank at one time. But this situation is not likely to happen. Most believed that iodine is needed for moulting. Lacking of which will cause in-complete moulting which will be detrimental. Thus, I will usually add a drop or 2 of lugol's into my tank every week. HTH

Pyramid Snails Identification Pyramid Snails, or Pyrams are very small snails that belong to the Pyramidellidae family. They are generally white in color, have a slender shell that tapers to a point, and do not grow larger than a few millimeters. The Pyramid Snails use their long proboscis, which is a tube-like mouth, to puncture the mantle of a Tridacna Clam in order to feed upon the fluids and zooxanthellae cells contained within. A few snails will typically not pose a threat to a healthy Tridacna Clam. The snails reproduce every 90-120 days, and if left to multiply, can cause serious harm or even death to their host in a very short period of time. Signs & Symptoms Evidence of an inflicted clam can be noticed by poor expansion and loss of color within the mantle. The Pyramid Snails feed mostly during the nighttime hours. During the daytime, they will remain either at the base of the clam, or within the scutes of the shell, where they are difficult to spot. It is best to inspect an ailing clam with a flashlight a few hours after the lights have turned off on the aquarium. The small snails will line up at the top of the shell just below the clam's mantle. Treatment If you discover these snails, it is best to remove the clam to a separate container of aquarium water. Once out of the aquarium, you can physically remove the adult snails, and brush the entire shell with a new toothbrush in order to remove any eggs. Natural predators of Pyramid snails include several species of wrasse within the genus of Halichoeres and Pseudocheilinus. A few of the more popular species that are reportedly very efficient at controlling these snails are; Six and Eight Lined Wrasse (P. hexataenia and P. octotaenia), and the Green Wrasse (H. chloropterus). Source: http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/general...ral_pagesid=362

What I saw was hammers, not sure whether there were alot of candycane as I was occupied by the maximas... hehehehe You can also try Golden Octopus, they frequently carries stocks for hammers and candycane. HTH

Hi bro, It is always prudent to use a soft toothrush to scrub the shell plus the byssal area of a new clam no matter how healthy it looks to you to rid any parasitic snails. If I were you, I will remove the clam now for some light scrubbing, place in a separate tank for observation before re-introducing back into the main tank. Remember those parasitic snails will multiply like plague when left unchecked. HTH

Saw quite a large selection at Harlequin Marine yesterday.

You can find them in most quality LFS, check with some of the sponsors here and you will get the answers. HTH

You can also try Caulastrea aka Candycane, they are just as hardy. Caulastrea HTH

I like to add the below into my food: 1) American Marine Selcon 2) Spiruzina from Fish & Friends 3) Kent Marine Zoe-con 4) Marc Weiss Combi Vital HTH

You are right... I am wrong to have even contributed.... I shall stay far away from your posts in the furture.... Happy now???

You are right... I am wrong to have even contributed.... I shall stay far away from your posts in the furture.... Happy now???

Like your below statement! Ups

For your case, you may try the below: 1) Removing the territorial fishes into a separate tank for a couple of days to give the angel an opportunity to establish its ground and acclimate 2) Re-doing your rock works to break the territory of the established fishes 3) Do the above 2 together. HTH

Fishes will do just fine in 1.025 to 1.027. In fact, fishes and inverts from red sea are accustomed to higher SG. The reason why we have kept 1.020 or even lower was based on old literature. During that time, keeping fishes below the ocean's sg was thought to prevent diseases. However, with the advancement in technology and the shifting of paradigm into reef tanks with inverts, most reefers reports better successes when we keep the sg similiar to the reefs ie in the region of 1.025. HTH

P. steenei aka Galaxy dottyback is slightly on the aggressive side according to a article written by Scott Micheal. O. novaehollandiae aka Australian or New Holland dottyback is more gentle.

Hi Piero, My humble opinion is you may have slightly high tang population than usual. But I don't think you have balantly overstocked - that's why you are not experience any nuisance algae. May be the reason behind you asking is that you may be looking into the SPS thus wanting to reduce bioload???? Cheers,

PVC Valves are Unions are not common in the general hardware shops as most carry brass valves a unions since most of our homes using copper pipins for water supply. As for PVC valves and unions they only have selected applications thus harder to find and even we can find we will usually end up with lower specs ones rather than those sold in Hai Cheong or even +GF+ which are higher quality. Most of the vales and unions we use are DIN standard with metric measurement.

Pump charts show the values of flow vs head. Some manufacturers will include pump chart while others will include just flow and max head and for the user to do their own estimation. I agree with you a 3500l/hr 1.2m head pump may performace better than a 3000l/hr 2m head pump at ZERO head ie, exit directly with pipings or elevation etc. I stand corrected on my statement "A pump with a 3000l/h with a 2m max head will definitely push more water than a pump with 3500l/h with 1.2m max head." as I was speaking in the context of the earlier posts of wanting to push water into the tank with 1.5m height.

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You are right bro, if getting a pump with sufficent head and flow is too costly. You can always think out of the box by shifting the location of chiller or pump or even the chiller outlet. For me, due to the horizontal distance of my chiller, I chose to have the chiller water intake on the first compartment of my sump and the oulet at the last compartment of my sump. I then rely on 2 very efficient return pump to push water back into the main tank. Btw Tineng, I am embarking on my own DIY similiar to yours but doing it personally.

Actually, all pumps will experience some form of back pressure when subjected to reduce pipe size, elbows, vertical height, equipments such as FR etc. That's why most reputable pumps will indicate its max head so that consumers will be aware of its performance in different situation. When choosing a pump, always look at the flow and the max head. A pump with a 3000l/h with a 2m max head will definitely push more water than a pump with 3500l/h with 1.2m max head. HTH