Gouldian

Dear all, Just cleared out some equipments from my storeroom. Priced to sell as I do not have room for them anymore. 1) Kent Marine Nautilis Sea Squirt Feeding Prong ($39) Selling $15.00 2) BRAND NEW Resun Ozonizer - never use before ($80) Selling $40.00 3) Denenerle solenoid with 3pin adapter ($135) Selling $70.00 4) Denenerle 2 stage regulator ($180) Selling $80.00 5) Tunze Temperature Controller ($279) Selling $120.00 6) Tunze 2 stage regulator ($129) Selling $60.00 7) Dupla 2 litre Aluminium CO2 tank ($120) Selling $50.00 8) Steel 2 litre CO2 tank ($80) Selling $35.00 9) Eheim 1048 Universal pump ($105) Selling $40.00 10) Y Loc-line replica ($8) Selling $3.00 Please PM to arrange for collection at Punggol Central. MASS members, feel free to sms me. Pics on the way......

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Hi Bro, if you are cleaning your fins periodically the only time you need to service is when hot air is no longer coming out from the chiller and it takes longer to chill your tank. HTH

Btw, I was running 1/3 hp for my 4 x 2.5 x 2.5 and I must say it struggle a bit when all lights (2 x 250Mh, 4 x 39T5) are on. Also the heat and noise generate is another concern. Since then, I have opt for Aircon compressor with Ti coil and I have been enjoying my tank even more.

Hi bro, 1) Give the chiller more ventilation 2) Clean and vacuum the chiller fins If the air coming out from the chiller is no longer warm, its high time for servicing. HTH

Yup, your overflow box is quite big. There is a formula to calculate overflow width and pipe sizes, I like to use those at reef central.

IMHO, dust particles accumulating at the water surface can be remedied with a powerhead blowing on the water surface towards the overflow box. These protein scums will be remove by your filtration. HTH

"I'll be using GF instead of Japan piping. Isit ok ?" GF is good pipe but does not really affect the selection of pumps "Tank maker said the External Overflow box is design to cater 1260, if 1262 need to increase the length of the EOB ! btw, I have only one return pipe and do not want many piping behind the tank lor !" Yes, that what I am worried about, if your tank EOB or durso pipe is already design to handle flow created by 1260, it is not adviseable to upgrade to 1262. HTH

But ensure that your overflow box and durso can handle the flow.

I will also suggest a 1262 plus a t-off to chiller and both return into your main tank.

You can prevent them going asexual by doing frequent trimming. Alternatively to to get chaetomorpha, they are more stable.

Not much diff. If you intend to use 1260, you can even t-off to run a FR if you find the return too strong to your liking.

A typical 2 x 1 x 1 ft tank holds about 55 litres of water so technically speaking you will have about 20x your tank volume with 1250 which is quite decent. There are however some who will push up to 40x their tank volume. Personally, I will still choose 32mm for your overflow as for the return, it is best to go according to your pump which now suggest a 20mm pipe. Yup, stand pipe or durso have to DIY but its no rocket science. You obviously will have either a internal / external overflow box (weir), just ensure that the width of the box that allows water to flow into your stand pipe will have a minimum width of 10inches i.e. 5 inch on each side of it happens to be a corner overflow box. As you can see from the below image, the part where there is holes to allow water to flow through constitute your width of your overflow box. http://www.ditchmond.com/gallery/albums/us..._overflow04.jpg HTH

Yes, they are tiger tail (Hippocampus comes). The macroalgae will adsorb nutrients and at the same time provide a refuge for copepods to grow and in terms be hunted down by your SH. SH are slow and fussy hunters, so they may be out compete for food by your fishes. If you are keeping SH only with fishes, you can try to use the feeding bowl method to wean your SH to take frozen mysis. HTH

First determine what pump you intend to use and then accommodate your piping towards your return pump. For a 2ft tank, you can run with a eheim 1260 which will turnover 2400l/hr. If this is the pump, the overflow have to be 32mm and the return have to be 25mm minimum. Also ensure your overflow width to be not less than 10 inches. Another point to note is try to get DIN standard pipes as they will save you to hassle in a long run. HTH

DA, is the other anemone still around? Any pics?

He charges by the distance from your mains plus the cost of raw materials... cannot remember how much I spend liao but definitely not more than 300.

Wise choice.... Many like to chose those that are transparent with green tip, you opt to be different and it looks better.

Not sure about others, but for me when I upgraded my tank, I contracted a separate PUB approved electrician to calculate the load, install more sockets and a ground fault circuit protector. In the end, I was told that HDB already have a ground fault circuit protector installed in our circuit breaker. He however calculated and increase the loading of the supply to my tank area.

Nice clean and neat set-up. I like harlequin tusk too, if I were to have a FOWLR tank, it will be one of the fish I will strongly consider.

Here's a write up on fishless cycling for your information - http://www.fishchannel.com/fishkidz/beginn...ss-cycling.aspx HTH

Hi, To start you cycle, you can throw in a few pellets or 1/5 cube of mysis shrimp. Don't need to use livestock to start the cycle. HTH

You wan... Ah Beng still have... lol. You LFS got time, meeting no time!!!

So you are the guy in short and wearing a pair of jogging shoes? Next time will self intro self to you.

Always like the look of a matured tank. I like the coralines on the back wall, looks natural, used to have them and now trying to get them back.