Gouldian

Happy New Year! I like your rockworks!

Happy New Year, it is my pleasure meeting with you at RD during their Year End Draw. Take care...

The hole is to allows air in to stabilize the siphon. Any noise the standpipe makes is drowned out because the standpipe inlet is kept below the water line. From your above post, your comes with a valve, this is even better. You need to fine tune the valve in order to stabilize the siphon thereby eliminating the gurgling noise. If there is still noise after much fine tuning, the problem lies with your overflow pipe ending in your sump creating too much back pressure causing this back pressure to build-up and creating a burping effect. "Back pressure in the standpipe prevents air in the pipe from exiting the drain line. Instead of exiting the drain line, the air bubbles try to rise in the pipe slowing the rate at which the pipes drain. The water level in the chamber then rises. The increase in the chamber water level adds pressure to help clear the air from the pipe. Once enough water pressure exists in the chamber to overcome the back pressure, the air is literally is "burped" out of the drain line which crates a sudden rush of water. This is displayed as a rapid drop in the overflow chamber water level." What you need to do is: If using hard piping - Ensure there outlet of piping existing into sump is not too deep into the water or being blocked by filter wool and/or hard pipes does not travel horizonatally or up-slope. If using soft Piping - No loop or kink Source: http://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy?start=2 http://www.dursostandpipes.com/faq/45-flushing-effect-why-does-the-water-level-go-up-and-down Hope that helps.

Bio digest is 1 ampoules for every 60 litres. It is not necessary you dose bio tim during start up. In fact, Prodibio recommends Bio digest stop Ammo for start-up and have even marketed "Start Up" which is a combination of Bio Digest and Stop Ammo. I have never used Stop Ammo for my start up though as I have never measured spike in Ammonia requiring its usage. Source: http://www.prodibio.fr/index.php?file=faq http://www.aquatics-online.co.uk/catalogue/prodibio-aquarium-solutions.asp http://www.prodibio.fr/library/pdf/prod_pdf_enr_1.pdf http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1941459

I believe 1 big challenge in this set-up is the evaporation and salt crust on the upper expose portion of the rock. What are the issues that you guys anticipate in this set-up? Any bro keen is setting up like that? Read his total set-up cost GBP3k, not sure much much will it cost locally.

Was at Reborn yesterday and was flipping through Practical Fish Keeper and notice an article on Kyle Verry's unique set-up. Herewith are more links with the details of his set-up: Reeftools Practical Fish Keeper Image source: http://wn.com/Konolua

It depends how you define "cured", generally local LFS do not do much to the LR once they are shipped in, these rocks will be externally cleaned to remove decaying matter and place in their holding tub awaiting buyers. I do get some of my LRs from them and I must say the quality is acceptable, just choose those that have the least nuisance algae growth.

Collected, thread closed.

Good price, care to post pics of tank?

Dear bros, Keith2816 have misunderstood how auction needs to be conducted in our forum and would like to closed this thread and start a new auction thread. Let's give him a chance to make things right. Keith, As posted by Thairun, kindly read through the auction rules and regulations before you start your new thread.

Same to your bro!

Many hobbyists have reported seeing the tentacles tips of Euphyllia to break off to be carry by the current to settle on other substrate. This is believed a form of asexual reproduction that is unique to this genre. Source: http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f6/frogspawn-6865.html http://www.myawesometank.com/wiki/index.php?n=StonyCoral.Euphyllia-HammerOrFrogspawnCoral

Thanks for your interests, both mag currently reserved. Will contact next online accordingly.

Hi bros, I have 2 x Tunze Magnet 6080.500 for sale @ $25.00, they have been clean and is free from coralines. http://www.tunze.com/details.html?&L=1&C=SG&user_tunzeprod_pi1[prodid]=6080.500 Collection Punggol Central.

Since you are dosing in 3 parts, you may want to try dosing using Randy Holmes method: "To initiate dosing, first adjust calcium and alkalinity to roughly their correct ranges. This may require a substantial dose of just the calcium part if calcium is low (e.g., below 380 ppm). I would suggest targeting calcium between 380 and 450 ppm, and alkalinity between 2.5 and 4 meq/L (7-11 dKH; 125-200 ppm calcium carbonate equivalents)." See source below more more details. Source: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php

Hi bro, sorry for the late reply. Using water from main tank for QT in practical sense works as long as there isn't a disease outbreak in your main tank. Was reading Advanced Marine Aquarium Techniques: Guide to Successful Professional Marine Aquarium Systems yesterday and in it, the author shared another way of saving by doing Batch Processing used aquarium water to be re-used later. This technique require another container with DSB and also Ozone to work - I guess it is more suitable for Public Aquarium or hobbyist with luxury of space at home.

Hi bro, Technically, she is not wrong. This is because, Granulated Activate Carbon aka GAC aka Carbon contains millions of tiny microscopic pores, these pores absorb heavy metals and organic molecules by trapping the molecules through a process know as molecular sieving. As more organics are trapped, Bacteria readily colonize the outer surface of the activated carbon and consume some of the sorbed organics. Beneficial bacteria (aerobic) will cling onto any surface within your tank to convert ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate. Thus when GAC, filter wool, rocks, corals or anything that has been in your tank for a long period that have been removed, the bacteria that colonizes them will be removed as well. That's why prudent hobbyists will stagger their maintenance of filtration medias so as to prevent removing too many bacteria at one time. And it is also one of the reasons why we practice partial water changes vs total water changes. Source and interesting reads: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/9/beginner http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/june2002/rb102.htm http://joejaworski.wordpress.com/2008/05/09/does-a-reef-tank-need-carbon/ http://www.hallman.org/filter/gac.html http://www.reefaquariuminfo.com/Chemical_Filtration.html

Bro, do note that GSP color (especially luminous ones) will fade with insufficient lighting.

Nice and healthy specimen, saw it with my own eyes. Ups! On a side note: Bro Straydum, I like your concept of keeping your tank fish-less, I can see healthy populations of pods and snails. Btw, if you dun mind, I hope to buy some of the tiny snail from you. Looking at your tank have further inspired me to hold my tank fish-less for longer period before introducing fishes. I have also learned yesterday when speaking with Jens Kallemeyer how some of the successful reefers in Germany are holding back fishes during set-ups. I will post the details of our meet with him

Congrats Nitro for successful breeding LGF, i have previously dabbled with them but always get in-fertile eggs or females kicking eggs from nest due to disturbance from family activities. Yup, read that if care-taker finch dun feed, you need to do it fast. Be prepared to feed them every 3 hours. Good luck!

Color - reddish orange = good luck, color do not changed unless bad food source Shape - round = good luck Size - max at 10cm = suitable for most tank Pattern - tiger stripes Feed - easily convert to most captive food source, generally reef-safe Temperament - although slightly territorial, they will usually accept conspecifics after initial aggression, easily paired Availability - comes with most Hawaiian shipment Afford-ability - less than $50 a pop Survivability - hardy and long life once established Behavior - inquisitive and will insect every nooks and cranny, will swim and eat from hand if properly conditioned I am sure there are more but off-hand these are what I can think of.

I believe Wayne Shang used to do something similar. If I remember correctly, he uses the used water from his reef tank for the fowlr or vis-versa. Source: http://www.underseadiscovery.net/home.htm

I am keen but do not need so much (need about 60kg nia). Are there any bro willing to share the cost with me?

Besides, lighting you may want to check on your water parameters. A slight swing of nutrients and temperature could cause elegance to recede and expel zooanthelae (bleach). Looking at your recent pics shows that your elegance signs being stressed by environmental factors.

Hi Wil, good to see you back, you still stay in NE? Maybe we can kpoi one day, lost your contact though .