Gouldian

After getting my very first Ich Magnet (AT), I have been battling with ich for the past week. Since I have already added my AT into my display, and the Ich still persist, I have no choice but to look for a solution that can: 1. Eradicate the *&%#^@ Ich, pardon my french. 2. Safe enough for my mixed reef display. Below are the info from the bottle: Reef safe KICK-ICH ™ is a water treatment for the control of ich in marine and freshwater aquaria. It has been scientifically formulated to eliminate the free swimming, infectious stage of the ich life cycle while being safe for all freshwater and marine aquaria. KICK-ICH ™ has a long shelf life at room temperature and is supplied in easy to use, self dosing bottles. Safe for all fish, corals, invertebrates and macroalgae, as well as the facultative anaerobes and nitrifying bacteria essential to biologic filtration. Safe to use in combination with Rally. Instructions: Beginning on day 1 add 2.0 oz of KICK-ICH ™ for each 25 gallons of total water volume for the entire aquarium and filter systems. Repeat on days 4, 7, 10, and 13 whether or not spots continue to be visible. Do not use carbon or similar absorbent media during treatment.

By the way, Electric Flame Scallop is in fact a File Clam.

I have kept them quite sometime ago and tried in vain trying to find out information about them but to no avail. Apparently Electric Flame are listed as Intermediate LS but some literature claim that survivability in a home aquaria is almost impossible. This is because, little is know about their feeding. Thus they will slowly "starve" to death in our aquarium. Robert Fenner claim that in order for them to survive, you will need to house it in a refugium without and disturbing fishes and protein skimmers. This is because the phytos and pods produced will be able to sustain this file clam. There are also another reefers in reef central that tried heavy dosing of phytoplankton daily to maintain them. According to him, he dose 2l of DT daily. For me, I think both the above methods is not cost efficient as such I have given up on them. I feel that the electric flame is already stressed due to hunger and when you moved it, you further stressed it thus the sudden deterioration. I have kept my for 4 months and notice it slowly shrinking and dying even though I target feed with 10ml of DT per day - can't afford 1l per day.

Actually all tang from the Zebrasoma family seems to be more hardy and lass prone to Ich. (YT, PT, Scopa, etc) From my experience even Hippo tang (paraacanthus hippatus) are aslo quite good at resisting Ich. But the Acanthus family is a different story all together. I am still battling this problem with my AT. PBT is also another commonly available tang that are considered ich magnet. That's why most books reccommend Zebrasomas as a beginners tang and the acanthus family as tang suitable for intermediate or experts.

Thanks you for the kind advises. After reading about the havoc Ich can bring to our tank, I eventually took the risk of adding medication to my display tank. Cuz, it is near impossible to fish out the AT without inflicting more stress to it and the rest of the inhabitant. As mentioned, I went over to Eaquanature to get Kick Ich which claims to be Reef Safe. After reading through the reviews of the products from reef Central, I decided to risk it. Tuesday, 07/09/2004 9pm: Although instruction is 2oz for 25gal, I added 4oz for my 34gal tank. Wednesday, 08/09/2004 8am - 8pm: No sign of Ich. All Intervertebrates: 1 x Maxima, 3 x Croceas, 1 x Scolymia (Prata), 1 x Hammer, 1 x Torch, 1 x Frogspawn, 1 x Fox Coral, 1 x Platygyra (Pineapple Brain), 1 x Goniopora, 1 x Cleaner shrimp, 1 x Fire Shrimp & 2 x peppermint Shrimp - No sign of stress or reseading tissue. Wednesday, 08/09/2004 9pm: Ich is back on AT again. No action taken as per instruction by Manufacturer to dose on 3rd or 4th day after initial dosing. So waiting to dose tomorrow.

Additional offer: One pair of Gold Banded Maroon Clown (Self Paired) for sale @ $12. Female: 2.5" Male: 1.5" been with me since April. Healthy and eating like pig. With give free to the one that purchase the CR tank.

Anyone????

Not all LFS will carry all brand due to conflict of interest. What you can do is check with our sponsors first, they usually are more reliable.

Hi bro, MH on - 11.30am MH off - 10.30pm

Too bad I already added to my display liao. I just got back from Edmund, bought some medication for ich that supposedly reef safe. Will try and feedback my progress. Thank you all for your kind advises.

Roidan has been keeping Royal Gramma with Black Caps in his tank.

Hi guys, I have finally tranferred the AT to my display. Eating bits and pieces of Halymenia until one bro generously contributed some ulva (Thanks again bro!). But What I notice is that the AT will always have ich just before lights off and the ich will be gone in the day. Is it normal? It has paired up with a doctor fish and the latter has been nipping the ich off whenever the AT permits but why does it comes back before lights off????? Any experts can advise?

I would recomend the Algae Blenny. Super hardworking!

Have you check your water parameters, current & lightings. Mushrooms detaching from the LR usually means that the conditions aren't good. If you don't look into this issues, you will not see any of them after sometime. Generally mushroom needs clean water with gentle current. Most mushroom prefers indirect lights but Ricordia prefers strong lighting.

If you are worried about hitch-hikers, what you can do is to leave the LRS in a tub with lights for two weeks and all hitch-hikers will by then starve to death. But remember to have a skimmer running to skim out the toxics release by the die-offs. But if you want to be more professional about it. You can install a sprinkler system on a tub with drainage. Put the LR in the tub and the sprinkler will contantly spray pre-mix seawater on the LR while the water will drain off into another tub with a skimmer to be recycled into the sprinkler system again. This is the way to do proper curing of LR. In fact Coral Farm also practice that on their LR - that's why more $$$ . For me I practice the first method loh and after two weeks in the dark, I find that the bacteria colonies still remains but add the bottom of the tub, I will always find die-offs such as sponges, crabs and algae.

Tank: CR Aquarium New Generation Series CR Aquarium 2ft Tank with internal IOS with Silver Trimming Black Cabinet with Silver Trimming Selling: $200 Still Available Filter: Ecco Aqualizer E55 Eco Aqualizer Selling: $90 Still Available Filter: Eheim 2213 Comes with: Warranty card, Elbow & Wide Output Selling: $50 Still Available Accessories: Eheim Quick Release Double Tap 12/16 Selling: $12 per set. Total have 4 sets available Two Sets Left Please note all equipment are in excellence condition. Tank requires no additional piping works, just add return pump, plug and play.

Anyone?????

Dear all, I have the following for sales due to upgraded to 3ft. All items bought earliest 12/03. Tank: CR Aquarium New Generation Series CR Aquarium 2ft Tank with internal IOS with Silver Trimming Black Cabinet with Silver Trimming Selling: $200 Filter: Ecco Aqualizer E55 Eco Aqualizer Selling: $90 Filter: Eheim 2213 Comes with: Warranty card, Elbow & Wide Output Selling: $50 Accessories: Eheim Quick Release Double Tap 12/16 Selling: $12 per set. Total have 4 sets available All items self collect after 8pm at Punggol. Thank you,

Yup. Especially Derasa & Squamosa. There are reefers that house them in the sump to reduce nitrate. Crocea & Maxima depend more on lights as they get their food from the zoos that they host. However, periodically filter feed too.

If you are only keeping Fishes. It should be ok. Most important about canisters is to dismantle and clean up the media frequently. Especially the sponge, they are there to trap deritus and can become a problem by increasing your nitrates and thus give you nuisance algae.

Yah, loh. Also, our beach sand are mostly consist of silica. The best sand are Aragonite.

True also. It reminds me of my Seahorse days. I did not try to raise the fries too.

And after month you will have to prepare "Red Eggs" for babies showers! Hahaha. I am happy for you "Grand Father" liao. ;-P

Dispar: Bro kepp us posted ok?

In fact there are still reefers that practice bleaching there rocks especially those that kept FLOWR & Seahorses. I use to keep Seahorses and frequent http://www.syngnathid.org One of their moderators preach about the advantages of bleaching rockworks meant for the horses to hitch on - which we call hitches. The reason they do this is because the demands are different from Reef tank, also they will only bleach hitches not Live Rock. The trick is after you have breach your rocks you have to rinse it thoroughly and subsequently dry it under the sun. This will neutralize and remnant bleach.