Gouldian

As written in the article, Stop Parasites is actually a product from Chem Marin and is sold in Europe and Japan through Salifert. I check in Reef Central Review and found the following review: http://www.reefcentral.com/modules.php?s=&...owcontent&id=19 Any one can shed more lights?????

I was at Aquastar Yishun yesterday afternoon and chance upon the above product. Tried searching for it in the net and landed on this article written by Sandy Cohen, a writer for FAMA. http://www.chem-marin.com/cohenapt2.htm Anyone have tried it? Please share..... If it is true, we alot of us will be very happy!

Good price for a good product. Upzzzzzz

Bro, what I believe happened to you is that the params in the bag and your tank is quite similiar thus, when you dump in - it does not cause any shock to the shrimp thus no problem. Params, differs due to: 1. salt mix 2. level on ammonia, nitrite & nitrates 3. dissolve oxygens 4. DOM (Dissolve Oganic Materials) 5. Trace elements etc

Bro, what you mean by 1kg $150? Does in comes in liquid form? I am interested leh.

Hi, if your light is a 2ft fl or pl, you can use it to keep only fishes. Coral requires more intesensity to survive.

Damsels, clowns, angels & wrasses are more hardy and usually will develop some form of immunity to ich. As for the tangs, they are usually more prone. When you don't see white spots on your current fishes, it does not mean that ich is not present. Ich have 3 life cycles: 1. Attached to host (appearing as white spots on fishes) 2. Hunting for host (swimming freely) 3. Buried in the substrate For your condition, I gather that the ich is already present in your tank. It periodically feeds on your hardy fishes but due to their immunity, it does not cause a outbreak. When you add new fishes that are more prone to ich, it causes an outbreak thus you see whitespots. Generally speaking, the Zebrasomas sp (ie. yellow tang, purple tang, scopas etc) are more hardy as compare to the Acanthurus sp (ie. achielles tang, powder blue, powder brown etc). And when a yellow tang cannot survives in your tank, I would suggest you improve on the condition before trying another. There are only three proven methods of eradicating ich: 1. Formalin 2. Copper 3. Hyposalinity The former two methods are very effective but can only be use in a FOWLR (fish only with life rocks). If you are having corals in your main tank, you can only use Hyposalinity. However, please note that Hyposalinity can only be perform outside of your main tank in a QT tank. While you are doing hypo, you need to have a fallow (without any fish) main tank so that the ich in the your main tank will not be able to have any host (immune or not) and will die - this treatment will take a minimum of 6 weeks in order to be effective. For more information, please read the post in the Disease and Treatment forum.

Once your mg is settled, you will need to slowly increase the KH to the desireable level, then slowly increase Ca. If you overdose Ca - KH will drop and if you overdose KH - Ca will drop too.

Since you have not done up your sump yet, it is better to use an external pump like the iwaki MD40. It will: 1) Save space inside your tank 2) Effecient 3) Will not transfer heat into your tank Also, check out the total footprint of the skimmer + pump you intend to use. If you are thinking in-sump, I don't the space you have catered is enough.

Wish you all the best! Continue to feed garlic soaked fook loh. BTW way, try to beef them up with some Selcon or Zoecon, it will help with the recovering of the fishes. Cheers,

The easiest and quickiest way is to check whether the water are milky or blurish. When you have too much kalk for your tank to handle, you will caused percipitation, this is will cause your water to look as above and you will also see white spots apearring at the side of your tank glass. I have that happening to me before to the extend that my tank stayed cloudy for 6 hours!. But fortunate to say, all livestocks pulled through. Try to establish the actual cause of your demised, do not be to quick to conclude that it is the kalk.

As per rest of the advises, shrimp are one of the most difficult to acclimatize livestocks, the rule of the thumb is that whatever methods you have used on your fishes in acclimatization. Incraese it by 2 x and you will not have them dying on you upon adding into you tank. For me, I will float the bag for 20 mins after which, I will the bag (Shrimp & Water) into another small container and slowly drip my tank water into it. When I check that the level of water into the container have increase by 3/4 vs the initial water from the bag. I will let it bubble for another 1/2 hours before adding to my tank.

Tube worms are very good filter feeders plus the fact that they look nice. You are lucky to have two in your tank without having to buy them. There is another type mentioned earlier in this thread - the coco worms, the big difference between coco worm and tube worm is that tube worms' tube are usually brown and soft while the coco's tube are usually white are hard. Both are equally cherish in our hobby. Good luck

Hi SH lovers, I have a colony of fake corals from my SH days. I have already wash & them and they are sitting in my study as a decoration. Interested? PM me...... Piriority given to Chinmo & Diabolous of course. Cheers,

Check your PM......

Chua Chu Kang?!?! Besides going to Farmart, you can go to LCK110 and Coral Farm. Coral Farm is at Lim Chu Kang Lane 6 and LCK 110 is also in Lim Chu Kang but nearer to Neo Tiew - Sungei Buloh Wetlands reserves. Coral Farms is famous for quality exotic fishes and tonga branches while LCK110 brings in wide arrays of LPS, Clams & SPS.

Selcon is a additive with lots of HUFA (Fatty Acids), vitamins & minerals. It is normally mixed into prepared food to be fed to the fishes. It is more difficult to find Selcon here in Singapore, I bought my last bottle from E-Aquarist Place. A more commonly marketing alternative is the Kent Marine's Zoecon. But bare in mind if you are fortifying your food with Zoecon or Selcon, they can really turn your skimmer crazy! Ensure that you have a good skimmer if not, your water params will drop drastically.

It is difficult to taget feed them in the display tank. What some bros have tried is to wean them to eating mysis in a small tank before transferring to the display. But if you look at the natural behaviour of the Mandarin, you will find that they are constantly hunting for pods. As such, I will prefer to add them to a matured that that have a healthy supply of pods. The fastest way to do this it to keep you tank fishless for a couple of months, by then you will notice tons of pods swimming or hanging around your tank - this is the perfect moment to add the mandarin. But make sure you only add one per tank! Also try not to get those that are more than 1 inch in size cuz they eat lesser and are also less finicky.

I postion the seios between rockworks so that I dun have them looking like "security cameras" in my tank, thus the sallys are able to access the seios. But for the climbing part, I have observe several occasions whereby the sallys climb on the bare back of my tank to eat the algae growing on the top edges of my tank! Talk about "cliff hanger"!

I got two sally too. And both of them likes to clear the debris and aglae growing on my 2 x sieo 620 and 1 x 820. They have been with me for 2mths liao, still doing while. For me, I have a mantis in my rock works that I have not been able to trap and remove. I read in RC that those hitch-hikers mantis are mostly smashers that firstly do not grow to the size that will threaten the fast moving fishes but will prey on crabs. Thats why I can always finds shells of hitch-hikers crabs at one corner on my tank - I lost my first sally this way. Thus the latter two, I got the bigger ones instead.

Fan loh, but this will only solve part of the problem cuz fan is cools by evaporation. And evaporation cause salinity to climb which in term result in another drastic change in water parameters. BTW, brine shrimp are not reccomended as a primary food source, it is lacking in the necessary nutrients critical to the survival of all livestocks. Thus, I would advise you to either slowly wean your livestocks to dry pellets or to other more nutritious frozen feed such as Mysis, Baby Brine Shrimp, Zooplankton or Cyclopeeze.

I think the cause of your problem could be the drastic change of temperature. I believe your work place in Air-con right, so when you guys goes home for the weekend and the Air-con is off the temperature will slowly creep up to the point that your fishes will all up the car. I have tried keeping fishes w/o chiller in my last office and have to purposely leave the air-con on over the weekend in order to maintain temperature. Now cannot in the new office cuz it is centralized.

There is nothing wrong with pumping air into a marine tank. The reasons most reefers has stopped doing so is that: 1) Our skimmer is already doing it 2) Some corals cannot tolerate bursting of bubbles - will cause recceding tissues 3) Some owners cannot tolerate burtsing of bubbles - will cause salt spray on hood and lights. You may slowly acclimatised the fishes into dry pellets so that you can use Auto-feeder.

You can PM Cookiemunster for the price.

Just realized that there is also another post on the KR. Anyway, here it is CORAL LABS KR If this is the case, I will not dwell more into the KR here.