DottyClown

Your salt has hardened due to absorption of the moisture in the air, which caused a chemical reaction. Likely the Calcium and Alkalinity parameters are now reduced. Mix a batch and test all the parameters to see how much is affected.

Bro, to clear your tank totally of the Ich protozoan, with corals still in tank, then the easiest (and maybe only) way is to leave it fishless for 2-3 months. So your surviving Chromis and Blennies will need to be removed from that tank. Either put them direct in a QT tank or maybe treated with medication (like cuprine) before QT. Do not put them back into the main tank until the 2-3 months period is up. During this period, as there is no need feeding of fish, maybe only corals, coupled with your regular water changes, your algae issue should clear soon. During water changes, try to manually hand-pluck whatever algae you can.

I've used Joe's Juice and saw the "implode" jerking. But it re-appeared a week later. Used it a second time, same reaction, but this time it reappeared just a few days later. Plus another head grew nearby.

Tks guys:)

Anyone can confirm?

Anyone can ID this strange mushroom-like things? Algae? Hydroids?

Yes, looks like Spaghetti worms.

I took mine apart and soaked for only 1-2hrs. Then brushed off any coralline that was still present. I removed and did not soak the rubber cushion and bushing. Just to play safe as dunno if these soft rubber parts will be affected by the vinegar.

Letting go below bundle at $35. (WSIWG) 1) Purple Digi. Approx. 7cm tall. 2) Green Yuma. Open to 3-4cm diameter. Currently detached and not anchored to LR. 3) Golden Cloves. Only 1 big + 1 small polyp. PM for interest.

Thank you so much for your kind offer bro! But my tank small, really want to find as small as possible. I look around again. TQVM.

Anyone letting go a Blue Tux Urchin? Preferably a small size (around 1") one. Or anyone seen in any lfs recently?

Bro, don't worry about the TDS for now. Anyway, you should mix the salt water first, before you put in your LR and sand.

What's a good LED light for 3ft tank? Estimate cost?

There is no right or wrong or any fast rule on starting a new tank with NSW or saltmix. It is simply what is comfortable and convenient for you. Some wants the convenience of just pouring in NSW, instead of having to fill a full tank of freshwater followed by mixing a huge amount of salt and still have to adjust parameters to the right salinity. Whereas some feel more comfortable with saltmix as they can be assured there are no contaminants like there could be in NSW.

Mine was under warranty, so was free motor exchange. Do not know how much it would cost otherwise.

Just to share my experience, as I had a similar problem recently. Due to neglect, my NO3 went up to above 100, while my PO4 was at 0.1 or lower. Despite several large water changes (40-50%), and later introducing Purigen into my system, NO3 still won't drop below 40, while PO4 was still 0.1 or lower. On advise from Reefers, I removed Rowaphos for a few weeks and only had Purigen in the system, while doing normal weekly 10-15% WC. NO3 dropped to 3 while PO4 increased to 2.5. I later re-introduced the Rowaphos again. NO3 and PO4 are now nearly undetectable. Lesson learnt. You need to have some PO4 first if you want to reduce NO3. So I guess this is has got to do about the Redfield Ratio.

That's strange. I've touched my Octo, Torch and Hammer before. But they usually open again within same day. Was it a gentle touch, or was it rough and injured it?

You could try this Spin-Stream from IM. It can be attached to your return pump/pipe or to a powerhead, but do check your flow rate to see if its within the operating range of the Spin stream.

Reserved.

Selling the below 3 items as a bundle @‌‌ $25, to make space in my nano. 1) Approximately 1.5" x 2" GSP. Will cut the frag when purchase confirmed. Below photos show the cut-point as indicated by the stirrer. GSP not attached to frag plug, so is easy to directly glue to your LR or tank wall. 2) Small GSP on frag plug. 3) "Pulsing?" Xenia. Was pulsing when first purchased from Irwana months ago. But when introduced into my tank, it stopped pulsing. Do note the rock its attached to have some turf algae. PM if interested. Collection at Telok Blangah (Bukit Merah area), or I can deliver to west side at time convenient.

You have A.Carbon in system to absorb any toxic release by torch?

Just for the record. After I feedback to LFS on the replacement quality. They responded quite promptly and agreed to change the motor again. Collected the new motor today. Have to give kudos to the LFS, great service EOA!

Does this type of mushroom need moderate-high light? Or are they ok with low light. Because the only low flow area in my nano is in low light.

Not sure what type of mushroom is this. It's generally purplish blue in color but sometimes can see tinge of green. Anyway, the issue is, the mushroom will grow to 1-1.5" diameter, then it will detach itself off, leaving its base still attached on the LR. The detached head will drift off and the base will later grow another mushroom. Already happened twice. Maybe the flow too strong?

Hi bro, Hope the below helps reduce your worry. 1) From that video, the 2 clownfishes are not fighting and in fact are getting along very well. 99% sure they are paired, with the larger clown being the female. 2) If the clowns get too rough on the anemone, yes, there is a chance anemone could get injured. But looking at the video, the anemone seems to be still ok now. Is that the full size of the anemone? Or has it greatly reduced in size due to the clownfishes? Monitor the anemone carefully for signs of prolonged stress and damage. If it does happen, try to isolate the anemone from the clowns for a while for it to recover. I had the same worry as you when I first got my RBTA. The female clown was larger than the RBTA at first, but the RBTA survived and grown bigger since.