DottyClown

Would like some recommendation on easy to use Test Kits. Are those 5-in-1 type of test strips accurate enough for a Non-SPS tank?

Didn’t you just started your tank less than 3 weeks ago? You can’t have finished your cycling so fast. My guess is the fish was too stressed out because tank is not ready for inhabitants yet and thus in its weakened state, it got attacked by whatever its body had been able to fend off previously. Would suggest you quickly give up the surviving clownfish to someone with an established tank. Patience is key in this hobby.

Yes, the tank water should go through the sponge filter first, before going to any other media like your bio-bricks. So have to move your Skimmer to 2nd chamber. I’m not familiar with bio-bricks, but you maybe can consider placing them in a media bag (or tie them together) before putting at the bottom of the chamber. This way, easier to remove from the narrow chamber if you need to take them out for rinsing. Or if they do break into smaller pieces, you have less headache “fishing” for all the loose pieces.

If you manage to block the light, then should not have issue of excessive algae growth through sunlight. But you may have issue with temperature and water loss.

Usually you want to have the mechanical filter (ie. Filter sponge) in the first chamber before anything else. So it can filter out most of the detritus before it runs through the rest of your system. You can have your bio bricks in first chamber, after your filter. If you have your bio-bricks in front, then it will become clogged with detritus very fast. Not familiar with WaterBox, but is the water level in the compartments meant to be so high in all compartments? Noted that you will be using fan for cooling. So you will have significant water level drop daily, which may affect skimmer operations. Might want consider get an ATO to counter that, unless you monitor very frequently.

Since it’s for cycling and such a big volume, why not just get salt water mix straight from a LFS?

Increase your water change frequency, % or both. Should clear in few weeks time if current parameters not out too by much. Siphon out as much cyano as possible when changing. Else for quicker fix, can consider Red Slime Remover, ChemiClean or similar. But do read up on it as different reefers have different experience with it.

Skimmer helps “plucks” the organic nutrients out from the water.

Any Skimmer?

The best way is to control your nitrate and increase export of nutrients. Else add what fish also may not solve algae problem. Don’t forget, fish eats and then poo, means the nutrients are just being circulated in the tank. What’s the size of your tank? What method of nutrient export are you using now? Possible to remove LR and scrub the HA away? Combine with a few weeks of major water change, should see results.

Click on the Reefer’s name to PM him/her. Then you will see an icon of an envelope, like email icon. Click on that and should bring you to a messaging page.

The tank maker has a responsibility to solve this issue. Regardless if they made both tank and cabinet, or if cabinet/tank was outsourced to another party. Do you know if this is due to uneven cabinet top or badly constructed tank? If tank, then should reject.

Has anyone successfully maintained a display tank with mix of corals and macroalgae? Am thinking to include some Sea Lettuce, Caulerpa and/or Dragon Breath into my softies and lps tank. Algaes that won’t spread/propagate everywhere all over the tank but rather grow around a base area, easier control. All advice appreciated. TIA

Amphipod, they are good. Detritus eater, until they in turn become food for your fishes.

As per title. Please PM if selling and indicate expiry date. Tks.

This method of water change has been discussed on several sites. The main idea was to do away with back-breaking routine water changes. It was also to promote stability of water condition as it’s doing frequent small water changes instead of single large water change. And it’s all done Automatically by using the Dosing Pump. My reservations on this method are (i) what if there is a mismatch of input and output? Over period of time, would it crash the tank or cause an overflow? (ii) Lifetime of Dosing Pump will be shortened, meaning increase cost of operation. Lastly (iii), even if Dosing Pump had replaced 10% volume of water over a period of time, but actually it is not equal to 10% water change, because you are actually removing old and new water everytime it pumps out. Above just my personal view.

I’m not planning to use it to scape/glue pieces of rocks together. Rather, only to stuff it between crevices of a rock, then make a hole in center of the epoxy to hold a frag plug stem. So not concern if it cannot bind 2 pcs of rock together. Only concern is if it will contaminate the tank water.

Need advice. I have an unopened stick of Fluval Epoxy that is way past it’s expiry date. Is it still safe to use? Or will it create havoc in the tank?

Looks like sponges. Pineapple sponges. It feels soft, right?

Last Frag still available.

Bro, you first owner?

SKIMZ PUR Reef Salt.

I don’t measure it’s level of Magnesium, Calcium, Potassium and such, so I don’t have those data. But I’ve been using it for years for LPS and softies and all are growing fast and fine. I don’t do SPS, thus can’t comment on that. I like that the salt dissolves very fast into a clear mix and I never had issue of “white” precipitate, even if I dump all the salt in very fast.

Or if anyone want to do a “group buy”, please PM me too. Aquamarin selling 1 pail @ $82. Buy 2 get 1, so for 3 pails it’s $164. Plus delivery $12, total $176. If anyone interested, we can work out how to split the cost per pail.

Anyone have a 20kg pail of new unopened PUR Reef Salt, please PM price and location. Tks.