DottyClown

Worried if the body will crack,water goes into motor, short circuit and fries livestock....

Just to update. Got the RW4 back from lfs. They changed the motor unit and its working now. Sadly, I believe they replaced with a "old & used" motor, as the physical appearance is not good.

Ya, I'm also figuring out the best way to do it. Currently I'm running 20-25ml of Rowas in a small pumpless "FR" which I DIY for my 20G tank. The Rowas is only 4-5mm thick. The setup is working as its brought my PO4 to nearly undetectable by my API test kit. But I think that because there's some amount of tumbling of the Rowas, thus I'm getting fines in my IOS sump chamber.

Hi bro, are you using a FR? 20-40ml is very little. Won't it be too small an amount to put in a regular FR? It will only be a layer of 2-3mm thick right?

Thanks for the pic bro. Yes, I still have that piece (bushing). In the end I brought it back to the shop early this week. Believed to be the motor died. They wanted to check if mine was brought in by them(agent) or through parallel importer, before they replace motor or entire unit. Just got a call from them today, asking me to go collect replacement. Hope I have better luck with the replacement unit/motor.

Just maintain clean water condition, make sure the fish is fed sufficiently and isolate it from all other fishes until it recovers on its own. I don't think there is anything else you can do, unless you put in separate isolation tank and medicate it (if there's medication available in market).

No need for urgent water change. I don't think PURE can be that bad, in fact it may be ok to use too, I do not know. But since your livestocks are all doing well, then there is no real cause for concern now. Just perform your normal water change weekly. (Btw, I also think 3 times per week is excessive.) If your Nitrate is just 20ppm, I feel once a week, 10-20% water is good enough. Siphon out the Diatom during water changes. Diatom usually will just go away after some time. Good luck.

DCJ80, please note that your mentioned NTUC Pure Drinking Water is not the same as LIFE Distilled Water the others are talking about. LIFE can be bought from NTUC, but it is not a NTUC housebrand. You need to check if this Pure Drinking Water is distilled water, or is it just purified water for drinking.

The fist time it stopped spinning, I took it apart and just rinse, brush and wipe it clean. Put it back and it did start to spin again after some hesitation, but not very strong and strength quite unstable. But less than a week later, it stopped again. So took it apart again and vinegar soak. But this time it just won't spin again. Both times I did not see anything loose and made sure did not lose anything. What does the ceramic bushing look like and where is it located?

Nice piece! Sigh, I too late.

Ok, so I cleaned the RW4 and sadly it is still not working. Only 3 months and its dead, that is very lousy quality. Anyone knows what is the warranty period for Jebao wavemaker? Problem is I have miss-placed the receipt, sigh.

Need advise. Me jebao rw4 stopped spinning after only 3 months of operation. Thinking to soak in vinegar and clean it, to see if it works again. So how long should I soak it. And do I take it apart to soak, or just put the whole "ball" in?

For copper treatment, you need to set up a quarantine tank. That means a physically separated/isolated tank from your main tank. Usually this would be a bare bottom tank. Good to place PVC pipe(s) in tank to allow the fish to hide inside. And then dose copper medication (for example, Seachem's Cupramine) to treat the fish. Do you have any pics of your fish?

Export meaning to remove/take-out. Fastest way to export nutrients is to do a large water changes.

The smaller tank size will increase the aggressiveness of the Dottyback. Plus there is no place far enough for the shrimp to hide. Everywhere it goes is still under the Dotty's territory.

Skimmer is tricky. Did they give you the manual? If I were to guess, set the height higher. The valve I guess is the air-intake valve that controls the bubble-size. So make the bubbles smaller. On the temperature, maybe get another thermometer and compare the readings?

Hi bro, I'm no expert myself, but allow me to make some comments. I think the AL60 chiller may be a little under-powered for a 60L tank. Monitor how frequently it is kicking in and how long it runs each time. then compare with others to see if your chiller running time is acceptable. The Green Algae growth seems a sign that your tank is cycling. (Even though you are using live sand and rocks) You made a wise decision not to add livestock immediately. You saved a fish from unnecessary stress. Good for you! The white looking ants are probably Copepods, which are good. Adjust the skimmer height and bubble size to get foam instead of water in the cup. Barring inaccuracies of the digital temp reader inside the tank and chiller's thermocouple. The digital temp reader is reading the temp of water inside the tank, but your chiller is reading the temp inside your chiller. So it will never be the same. If you can, do an external temp probe so that the chiller measures the water temp of your tank. Happy reefing

So meaning I can just leave the RowaPhos running in the tank? Guess I just wait another week or 2 and see how the Nitrates level go.

What is you current tank size?

Maybe you

Recently, due to poor husbandry, I had a bloom of Turf Algae. Phosphate was 1-2 while Nitrate was a staggering 100+. Now Phosphate has been brought down to undetectable (at least on my API test kit), but Nitrate still hovers at 40. Turf Algae growth stopped/slowed-down, but still there. The Nitrate level quite stubborn and just won't drop. I read that we actually need some Phosphate, in order for the bacteria to reduce the Nitrate. Is this correct? If so, does that mean I need to remove my RowaPhos and allow Phosphate to increase? Currently using RowaPhos, Purigen and a little remaining Biosphere for chemical filtration. Could anyone offer some advice, thanks.

Ya, looks like a Spoinid Worm. They are harmless and they eat detritus & fishfood. Agree, too much of them can look gross, so watch your feeding routine. Its up to you to leave it or remove it.

It may also help if, after acclimatising, you put the shrimp in a breeder box inside the DT. Wait till lights out then let it out. These are just some measures you can consider. But no guarantee it will work

Did you properly acclimatise the shrimp before putting it into your DT? Shrimps are more sensitive to changes in water parameters, so you need to acclimatise them slowly. Also, add the shrimp in after lights out, when all other fishes are hiding in their own holes. Let it have time to search for its own hiding hole first. This will help alleviate the stress of it being suddenly added into a tank with so many aggressive fishes.

Thanks bro, I really noob on this & learning. So if I got rotifer from lck201, are these suppose to act as seeds only? Meaning i still need to make my own "green" water and culture the Rotifers. Or is it sold already in green water and I just need to keep them alive? i know this being the first spawn, I wouldn't be really prepared. So fatality rate will be high or even 100%. Or a miracle may happen...haha