brent

Glad to see that I am not the only one annoyed by this. Is there any technical way to throttle the number of posts? It should be possible to restrict each user to only one new post per minute.

Purple is a full spectrum with red / blue accents and appears to be most similar in spectrum to coral plus. Therefore, it would probably make the most sense swapping out the white with the purple. http://www.atinorthamerica.com/bulbs.php

Hey bro A 1/2 or 1/3 would be the safest option. The 1/4th will struggle cooling down your tank. It should be fine if you combine it with the fans. I have an Arctica 1/5th and it has a hard time keeping my 4ft 125G cool during the day time. (See the attached graph) The people who seem happiest with their setups are using drop in coils. In my experience the Haileas are too loud. The Arctica 1/4 requires between 1820 - 5000 lph of flow. Considering that pump values are frequently inflated, I doubt that the Aquabee would be sufficient. I've also thought about supplementing my chiller with some fans. Can you describe what fans you are using and how they are set up? Thanks

Thanks bro. All items collected. Mods: please close the thread

Fuel from Iwarna breeds them. You should check to see if he has any stock.

Purple hammer reserved. Everything reserved now. Thanks everyone.

Everything else reserved except the purple hammer. I'm now selling the purple hammer separately for $10

Pocci reserved

Hi Bros / Sis I'm trying to free up some space and so I've decided to sell off my non-SPS corals. Here they are: Pulsating Xenia Colony (fist size) $35 Fast pulsing, very nice, and fast growing Two hammer soft corals: 1 Green (2 heads) and 1 Purple Brown (1 head) - Both for $30 Photosynthetic Gorgonian - Bought it for $40. Selling for $25 Here is an older photo of it. I haven't had time to feed it and so I haven't seen PE for a while. Current photo: Christmas Tree Rock - These came from CF. I believe I paid around $40. Selling for $25. I don't have a photo with the worms out since they only come out at night. They are the small worms. Rainbow Pocci Frags - $10 for all 3 frags I bought these maricultured rainbow poccis a while ago but they never seem to flourish under my care. Maybe someone else will have better luck. ----- Dealing in the East near Haig Road. nine tw0 7 O - 2 eight six two

Hey bros. Has anyone spotted Tonga branches? Thanks in advance

That's right. It's a Canon EF-S 60mm macro lens.

Thank you everyone for your positive feedback. I'm just getting started but I'm happy to share in the journey. I tried my best to use the golden ratio in my aquascaping but recently I've strayed a bit since I'm running out of space. I use a Water Blaster HY10000 that feeds a manifold, which powers my return, chiller, biopellets, etc. I use a 60mm macro lens and take photos using the RAW format. In terms of compensating for the blue light, I just select something that I know is either white or grey and use the color cast adjustment feature in iPhoto.

It's been forever since I've posted and so I thought I would highlight some relatively new additions. Thanks to bro kaijuworld for picking up the first two for me! Kit Kat Sorry neither of the next two are good photos... my photo skills are very rusty Desalwii (Pearlberry) SSC (not new but coloring up) I have some other corals that I wanted to highlight but the photos are so blurry that I decided to wait until I get decent shots. Everything else seems to be going fine except I've been thinking about upgrading my skimmer. Unfortunately, a skimmer upgrade means a sump upgrade which would be a major project. Right now I'm looking at the JNS skimmers. I'm also debating whether or not I want to stop dosing two part and buy a calcium reactor. Happy Reefing

There aren't any hard and fast rules for wavemaker placement since everyone has different rock placement, substrate, powerhead types, coral growth, etc. Most people will start at half way up and then look for dead spots. You want them high enough that they don't create a sand storm and low enough that they don't create a vortex that sucks air. Make sure that you aren't directly blasting any coral. Then you just make adjustments until you eliminate as many dead spots as possible. Sometimes you'll need to tweak the position 10 times to get it right.

You need to provide some photos since they sound like copepods, which are good. In fact, many people spend money to buy them for feeding difficult fish like mandarins.

Not sure if you are still looking but two of the fish from the Iwarna shipment photos look like they could be blue throat triggers.

CO-1 should be sufficient given that it's already 2.5X your water volume. Apparently, there can be issues if you overskim too much since the skimmer doesn't have enough organics to develop a decent head. The only issue with the CO-1 is if you decide to upgrade. BTW, if you don't mind me asking, how much do the two models cost?

Struggling means that I wouldn't buy it since it didn't seem to be recovering well from the shipment. Sea Life: Jalan Bukit Merah Blk 107 #011830 Singapore City, Singapore 160107 6256 4727 I would call before going down there

I bought a blue throat trigger yesterday from Iwarna. They might have one left but it seemed to be struggling. They are supposed to be one of the safest triggers for reef tanks. I remember seeing a post that Sea life had some in stock last week.

Total price should be less than 10 SGD (depending on size)

It's standard piping components available at any plumbing supply shop. As you can see: 1 Tee 1 Elbow 1 End cap Some links: http://randystacye.com/dursostandpipe.htm http://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy?start=3

One more. This is the most relevant: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.htm

Good luck. If it turns out that it isn't a problem with the test kits, here's a couple of good articles on correcting chemistry problems in saltwater tanks. This guy is the master of reef chemistry: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/11/chemistry http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/6/chemistry

Yes, 24/7 lighting on the chaeto raises pH due to the photosynthesis. Some people like to reverse cycle their fuge lights and main tank lights to moderate pH swings between day and night. Some people will run 24/7 to maximize nutrient export and avoid some macro algae such as Caulerpa from going sexual. In any case, chaeto would not be causing any of the problems you're mentioning. Try that trick with aerating the water. That should give you an idea if you are having problems with low flow. Also, sometimes salt separates in transport which can cause some problems since the bucket is chemically inbalanced. You need to mix the entire salt bucket before you use it. When I started out, I also used API. Eventually I had so many problems with the accuracy that I threw them out and bought Salifert. Get some decent test kits.