james72

Wrong again........no casing for u........hahaha

This first pic look like some kinda slime from the frag, I swift the PH to blow on the frag to get rid of those sliming stuffs. This is the latest pic of the Acro after one day without lights. So far what have I learn? If I follow the advises......probably now u still see me cycling my water.........for 12 mths maybe like one of the reefers said.......LOL

For the sake of learning.........this is a slight bigger pic.

Not sure abt plants man, you try out liao let us know lor. Stainless steel tubings can be bought at any hardware stores, if use for marine, get the beter grade stainless steel to prevent rust.

Sorry! wrong answer........hehehe those guess correctly get the 2 free super heavy metal floodlight casing.....LOL

Collecting my 3ft hood tonight, will incooperate the MH inside the hood then no glare liao. ya my place is facing part of the highway .......hehehe, can see reflection ar? LOL

Bo pian leh, if no act fast then my 3 frags of Acro later turn brown liao. Before collection of the floodlight already sold off my 150W DE pendant. The bulb that come with the floodlight is ard 5200K. Quite yellow. PR got sell the 10K and 20K BLV SE 250W bulbs but very expensive ($160 for the 10K) I ordered 1 x 10K & 1 x 20K 250W SE BLV from Viclite liao. $95 for 10K and $115 for 20K. Approximate time of arrival 1-2 weeks. So mean time just bear with the glare.......

Ya, hunting for one 1/2hp chiller right now. But my budget only $500, so a bit tough to find. The lights are about 10" above the water, monitoring the temp. now, so far still at 25.7 degrees C with my 3 fans & aircon running. Just off my aircon, lets see how high the temp. will shoot up.

But if put both 20K, it would be very bluish/purplish right? If given a choice of 2 x 250W SE MH for a 3ft tank, what would be your preferred kelvin rating?

MH with tank p/s: Monitoring temperture now, I got no chiller.....hehe.....This size ok? Will update when my BLV 10K and 20K is here.

My DIY stainless steel hanger with the 2 x 250W dismantled MH

Dismantled Floodlight MH

Wanna thanks Oink Oink aka Gene & Susan for selling me the 2 x floodlights MH. This is what I have done with it after collection from yest. evening. Still awaiting the 10K & 20K 250W SE MH from BLV. 2ndhand 250W Floodlight MH from Oink Oink

Just to clarify, 2ndhand or is fine, if brand new even better :-) But whether 2ndhand or new, it must have warranty. Thanks!

Still hunting for 1/2hp chiller with warranty - budget $500 pls PM with chiller details.

My method :- 1)Set up all equipment and ensure no leaks, install sponges,filters,bio-balls,bio rings at sump. 2)Put 4" grade 0 sand (btm) & 2" grade 1 sand (top) 3)Fill it up with salt water (can buy from LFS), ensure SG1.020-1.024 4)Run all equipment to cycle the water 2 days 5)Add in 2ndhand cured live rocks (the longer the beter) as much as ur tank can carry. 6)Cycle with chemi-pure for another 3-5days and use test kit to keep track of ammonia (NH3) & Nitrite (NO2) level. 7)After Ammonia & Nitrite raise and drop to zero, Add in two damsels to test water 8)Test for Nitrate level and look out for bubbles in DSB 9)Test for NH3,No2,No3 every day, if good, buy more LS 10)I stop stocking whenever I notice Ammonia and Nitrite is more than zero, if ammonia and nitrite still keep climbing, I add some zoo-11-1 baterials to counter, if still goes up, change 20-30% of water. 11)Add in Phosguard & 8 snails to help battle the brown algaes & 2 hermit crabs to battle the overfeeding or dead cells from LR. 12)Still monitoring water parameters closely, but so far so good despite my overstocking within a month. Basically, I think the 2ndhand cured LR I bought from a fellow reefer and the 6" DSB helps a lot in my cycling speed. Just sharing my cycling method, do not follow my method unless you willing to do test for water parameters everyday and take counter measures immediately. I will hold no responsibility for any "death" cause.

No. 1 balestier road. Walk along Serangoon road till the end of little india, see the main cross junction turn left, see the first road on ur left , PR is just at the corner.

Acylic will melt, dont even try, waste the money.......its saver to use glass.

You make the hood liao let me try for you lor, if melt I give you back, if no melt I buy from u.......haha

Add few layers of sponges on top of bioballs to prevent debris from dropping and trapped on the bio-balls. Occasionally take out the sponges and rinse. That way maybe you wont have a Nitrate factory. Just my guess........need some "lao jiao" to verify.

Nvm lah, try my luck lah. thanks! Msg that AT bo reply one.....

Anyone have the address for Iwasaki office ? Do they have 250W SE 20K & 6500K bulbs? Hopefully can get 2 bulbs from them A.S.A.P.

Have called oink oink office. The MH are in his office at 279 River valley rd #03-01 tel. 67382342. Can collect anytime before 6pm (office close). Buy two is $60 each, buy 1 is $80. So those who wanna take advantage of buying at $60, I'll be collecting 2 sets at his office at 5.45pm sharp. Those buying 1 set can meet up with me at the office downstairs at 5.40pm sharp. James

max 20" . A 2.5ft = 30" You need very deep DSB to compensate the depth. I was using 150W MH, no problem for LPS or anemone. But upgrading to 250W cos heard SPS require more intensity. The higher the kelvin, the lesser the intensity. So 6500K can penetrate deeper. If you have no intention of SPS, I think 150W is good, not much impact on temp. also. Correct me if I am wrong......I only got one month experience.

Point noted!