ryz

PL lighting is single ended double-joined-tube. Also refered to as PowerCompacts or PC. FL is your normal double ended Fluorescent tube. Get a bright PL lighting preferable above 10,000kelvin. Not so much as a necessity but for aesthethic reasons.

INTERESTED! sell me for 90 and I'll take it! Price still negotiable. Post a pic of it pls! USe a coin or something for size comparison

I'm secondary 3 going on sec 4 next year( like few days away) I'm in catholic High.

Higher Kelvin Lighting penetrates better into deeper waters as other spectral colors get filtered off by the water. However Lower kelvin lights are more intense and are better for Photosynthethic Zooxanthelle algae. Higher Kelvin Lights also appear bluish thus more pleasing to the eye. lights of 10,000k and below are often slightly pinkish. Trust me. once you see the difference you wouldn't like the 10000k one maybe you should go to some LFS and let them show you the lighting difference (visual) and decide then. I would choose a 15,000Kelvin bulb over a 10,000 in a heartbeat. HTH

Oh your talking about a false gramma? haha my bad. But my methods works just as fine though. IMHO bicolor pseudochromis are beautiful and rather peaceful fishes. You shouldn't have any problems with their aggression. add a damsel to your tank and it willbe less aggressive(size intimidation). However they are known to defend their territory against fishes twice to thrice it's size. So I think u should add it as your final fish( or at least not the first few). Now you can take it out rear it in another tank(maybe your Quarantine tank) and add the fishes that you wanna keep in your main tank(that are non aggressive) then reintroduce your pseudochromis to the main tank> Then it will see the area as foreign territory and not show aggression to other tank mates are they were there 1st. HTH

Keep your LR in aquarium water (in pails) while you are catching your basslet. Make sure you don't kill the nitrifying bacteria in the LR. I wouldn't reccomend removing ur LR though. Too tedious. Just snag it while it's sleeping or set a trap using a small plastic tank with a small door in the hood. Leave some food in there and try to lure it into the small tank once it's in there. Reach down and close it quick. or perhaps use a net and put some brine shrimp in it.

Algae bloom? of the same kind? some other type of macro? or diatoms? I'll take it as algae of the same type multiplying in your tank. Indeed, It should not cause any blooms. try to recall what alterations/additions you made to the tank in the past week. is yours the red caulerpa(spelling?) algae? cool. Haven't seen any in the LFS that I've been to. Valonias(bubble algae) however would cause blooms. Pooping of their bubbles releases thousands of spores into the water thus causing a bloom. Do some research on the species of your algae. I wouldn't reccomend getting phosphates or nitrates removers though. I'd rather you get some cleanup crew. Throw in some hermies and some macro eating snails. They should do the job.

SPonges exposed to air will get air bubbles trapped in their channels through which they get food(do some reading, vague description) therefore blocking any food intake. Causing it to wither away slowly. Never expose your sponges to air(better to be safe than sorry, cliched I know but true)

whole set for 300? negociable still. What about logistics? I live in Yishun leh.

Don't cover your tank with glass. This cuts of circulation and hinders the exchange of gases. CO2 would accumilate and alter your PH. Cover with eggcrate or bbq grilles etc.

you could remove the ballast and change it to a MH ballast. can get them at sim lim square. MUCH cheaper than ready made ones. but have to do some Modding. I would suggest you tell us what type of bulbs it used to hold so we cvould better advise you. Otherwise we can tell you nothing. PCs(powercompacts) in general are sufficient for the average reef. Unless you wanna keep light demanding clams or SPS. Do some reserach on lighting before you buy the. I suggest you go the Metal Halide way(MH). What are your tank specs? 3ft? 2 ft?

AT most salt mixes have trace elements in very minute amounts and often exaggerate the quality of their product. I suggest you get a good salt mix(usually expensive) I would suggest you getting the "marine environment dualphase formula" salt mix. Pricey but good. It has a small bottle of trace elements calcium, strontium iodine etc. Best salt mix (according to some review, do a search on salt mixes review). With a good salt mix, just do regular water changes of 10%- 15% every week or 25% every month. That should replrenish the supply of all the required chemicals and also remove nitrate, toxins etc. Lighting is also one of the fundamentals in keeping your corals healthy. what size is your tank? I would suggest you get MH or 2 PCs of the highest possible Wattage. For starters, don't keep hard corals (SPS or LPS) maybe you could get away with a fox coral. Otherwise get some zooanthids or mushrooms. They are less demanding in lighting and are hardy. PH : 8.1 - 8.3 dKH: 8 - 11 Temp: 25 - 28 degrees celsius SG: 1.024 - 1.026 ( I know it says 1.021 to 1.023 on the hydrometer, but my range is better for inverts) Calcium : 420 - 450 ppm (if you're keeping hard corals) Get the Marine Environment dual phase formula salt mix and follow the instructions and you shouldn't have any problems. Maybe you might need to get Ph and KH buffers thats all. Do your regular water changes religiously. And for calcium reactors, you don't need one. Unless you're tank is a full Hard corals Tank. Otherwise kalkwasser or other calcium supplements would suffice. Just remember to maintain it at 420 - 450 ppm(parts per million)

I see. Cool. I regret getting damsels though. Cheap and good looking, but it's aggression causes some problems.

I suggest you get a PL light above 10,000Kelvin 15,000 would be nice You should also supplement it with actinic. Adds umph to your tank. besides one 55w isn't good enough. get 2

TSUNAMI. get a pump that pump 10 times your tank's capacity in an hour. That should be more than enough current

All (most at least) of the shrimp u find in LFS are cleaner shrimps. Peppermint, Blood fire, Scarlet Skunk, Boxing shrimp (aka coral banded shrimp), ###### shrimp etc. and most will set up cleaning posts where fishes will visit to rid themselves of dead skin or parasites. Cleaner Shrimps work best in groups.

Think PL = PC just that singapore LFS refer to them as PL dunno what it stands for PC = Powercompact. It would help a great deal if you could tell us what type of anemone you are keeping Bubble tip? Carpet? Condy? How many watts of PCs you have over your tank? Tank specs? I have 3 bubble tip anemones and 1 carpet anemone doing great in my 4 footer. Feed them with chopped shrimp. And IMO anemones are NOT hard to keep. Haven't had any deaths. ALl fluorishing! haha Oh and BTW the about the algae, It will not bother the coral. I have a carnation tree coral that also has algae grwoing at the bottom. Just make sure the algae is not smothering the coral.

Check these pages out Blue velvet damsel http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Di...d=21&pCatId=114 Fiji Blue Devil Damselfish http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Di...d=21&pCatId=112

Joe's Juice? or Geo Liquid? another miraculous product? All in one? haha

There is a nitrate remover in pellets form that you're supposed to bury in your Gravel. It's by TETRA ( the company) otherwise get some maiden hair algae in your tank Looks good does the job. If you're using coral chips and/or bio balls, get rid of them. They're nitrate factories

NET OUT UR FISH IMMEDIATELY! Even if your LR is cured, you will still have a substantial amount of die off which will take some time to rot and turn into toxic ammonia. NItrifying bacteria has to colonise your LR and other(if any) surfaces provided for it to break down the ammonia into nitrite and eventually nitrate. Having fishes in your tank during cycling will put them under serious stress and even though they might be hardy species, There is a high chance of them dying. Get test kits for NH4 NO3 and NO2 test your levels every two days to check levels. Once cycle is over, you should get 0 or negligible readings for ammonia and nitrite and maybe a little prescence of nitrate. Get some macro algae to absorb the nitrate. They take it in as nitrogen supplements essential for their growth. MAN you should do much more research before u even start.

good live rock = cured + full of life. CHoose LR that has lots of crevices and of interesting shapes to aid in aquascaping. Coralline algae should be present on large part of the surface.

got my bicolor dottyback at LFS in yishun for 4 bucks

I deal watts per gallon is not 3 watts!!! 3-5 watts per gallon is low to moderate However the watts per gallon rule only applies to Normal Output Fluorescent Lamps. Powercompacts give off light 3+ times the intensity of NO lamps. Thus if you have 32 watts it is equivalent to having 32 x 3+ watts of light. However that rule IMO is crap. Don't work. Nice tank but BOOOO.... On the tang! 2 marron clowns in a 2 ft already and so many other fishes??? HArd to maintain water param stability. Tang will outgrow your tank and It need lots of swimming space even if it's small. When getting fishes, you should not look at it's present size, but consider how big it can grow to and how much space it requires. I notice that you ppl are not too skeptical. Or maybe a bit "bo chap". Your attitude will be your Livestock's Undoing. Sorry if I come off a bit harsh but I mean your Livestock well.

That is a torch coral (euphyllia glabrescens) a LPS(Lrge Polyp Stony) Coral You can feed it small pieces of shrimp or fish ( have to be marine or they won't get the specific amino acids that is only found in marine life)