solasido

LCK 201 got many Sohal Tang also. For those who do not have car can take bus 925 from Kranji on Sundays and stop at side road bus stop along Neo Tiew Crescent (in front of Dragon fish industry) and walk about 5-10 mins to LCK 201.

Thanks bro. Watching now. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Ah Beng should have, bro.

Check if the current is too strong. By right it will automatically find its own sweet spot and stay there for long time. But if it cannot find and hide under low lighting area it will slowly die.

Hi bro, Canister is okay if you clean it often. Bro minireefer in this forum uses a canister filter for his tank. Probably you could check with him on his maintenance regime. In my case, I use a big hang-on-back filter where I stuff the inlet tube with filter wool. The water flow on HOB is equivalent to canister. My HOB contains a bag of Seachem matrix porous rock (bio home is fine too), coral chips and a mini deep sand bed of 10cm deep, plus a bit of room for some cheatomorpha. I changed the filter wool 2x a day (morning and evening) and it is always dirty. But the water is very clean. During feeding I will turn off the HOB and allow 1-2 hours for the corals to eat the suspended food before turning on. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Hi bro From my personal experience; Extreme Ca level will kill SPS and LPS and some invert like shrimp. I encountered before in my other tank last time where I neglected measuring Ca and I didn't realized that the pump I used to mix salt that I also use to mix Ca powder in water for Ca top up has much deposit in the pump that leaks into the saltwater mix each time I did water change and ended up Ca shoot up to 800ppm. I lost a number of SPS and my frogspawn coral (that has started branching out). The hardy ones that survives the ordeal was birdnests, pocci, hammer, trumpet coral. Acroporas, monti could not make it. Best is to do big water change asap. In my case the other tank I had was 2x1x1.5 which allow me to change near to 80% to bring the level to normal. If you want to do safe you can move your live stock into smaller basin that is filled with about half-half new and exiting tank water for half an hour before putting them to the tank with changed water (similar to the acclimation). But with such high Ca the corals is already stressed. I am not sure if acclimation will help much. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Pistol will maintain its territory. Cleaner is quite peaceful. It will avoid confrontation. It should be okay for them in the same tank. I even have 3 pistols (different species) and 1 fire shrimp in the same tank. 1 pistol is a baby pistol (about 1.2cm) that came free, hiding in SPS that I bought from GO Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Hi bro Check the weekly shipment forum (or ask there if any LFS has it in stock). It is reef safe. It will shift sand and rumbles to create burrow. It is quite interesting to see how it arrange rumbles as gate to its burrow. If sand is not thick enough for a burrow it may hide in rocks. Mine is on 5 - 7cm thickness of sand with some coral chips and it is good enough for it to arrange for its burrow. Try to purchase pistol shrimp with a goby buddy pair for more interesting marine symbiotic life. Price wise (shrimp alone) should be around 1 - 2 red notes ba. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Thanks bros. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Any LFS has 6 line wrasse? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Move it to strong light area and it should grow fast. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

GHL Mitras is currently best due to the spectrum coverage. But the price is totally make it unattractive. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

GHL Mitras is best for now but quite ex.

Without sump, for a nano with full of SPS, from my experience is that it is going to be hard to keep the water parameter. It can go till a delicate situation. When the SPS starts settle down and growing there is going to be more and more carbonate, calcium and mg sucked out from the eater column. The more you try to keep it stable the more they demand for their growth up to the point where topping more HCO and Ca beats the evaporation and it will drop the salinity. In which topping with salt water is required yo maintain the salinity. It is going to be a delicate situation on the parameter, such that when the dosing pump fails or stops for some reason the parameter will drop drastically and can cause stress to the coral. Also, it is better to keep dkh at higher level. The reason is because of the small water body, it is harder to maintain PH fluctuations if dkh is low.

The GSP is really nice on the floor, thumbs up!

Ah is see. This is great. Now I remember and think that it is the same case as mandarin fish feeding on pellet instead of live pods.

I read in a reef magazine that cleaner wrasse may not be suitable in home aquarium setup. The reason is that it needs constant feed on parasites. And this supply is limited in home aquaria. Many times it will end up being chased out when trying to find parasite which will lead to stress and in the end will die. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Another option, you can look for Victor from Iwarna. He can advice on best equipments for your budget. The price of the equipments are also quite competitive. What I really like is that he is very up front on all the costs and helpful as well as knowledgable. He will advise on what is practical and what is not including where you place the tank.

Saw similar thing happens with hammer coral and a dead juvenile true percula at AM yesterday. The head is already swallowed. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Bro, save your money. Just buy an internal filter (medium size one). It will cost probably only $20-30. Buy coffee/tea filter bag from Daiso ($2) Buy DI resin and Carbon Fill 1 filter bag with DI resin and another bag with carbon. Put in both in internal filter. Run the filter in tab water for 24hours (used a TDS meter to make sure that the reading is close to zero). 1 bag of DI resin (abt 10x10cm bag) normally good for about 40l of water. As for carbon I change every 2-3 months. I have been doing this since day 1 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Mine used to be 2x weekly 40% (20g cube tank). Now weekly 40%. I always try to match the new water parameter with existing one in tank. I noticed that during water change, if the SPS exert slimes it means that the new water parameters differs too much and the coral coated themselves using their slime for self protection. So as long as new water parameters are more or less the same as the current tank parameters, it is okay. For this reason, I stopped using salt with very high Ca, Mg, Hco because it cannot be adjusted down to match tank parameters. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I also suspect the haze cause some of my SPS losing color although not yet stn, because nothing is changed including water changes, salt, water parameters, etc. It only started few days ago in the morning was okay but in the evening after came home from work I notice sudden lose of color/pale just in a day. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Aiyoh. So sorry to hear this bro. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Got a advise from a senior member in this forum that to avoid old tank syndrom, every 4 years got to change entire sandbed. Also replace part of rocks in the tank. Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2

Got a advise from a senior member in this forum that to avoid old tank syndrom, every 4 years got to change entire sandbed. Also replace part of rocks in the tank. Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2