Aquareef123

So how? Any suggestion?

Oic. Skimmer overflow. Got it.

I need help !!! I have introduced wild zoas into my tank before I found this thread. Now I'm frighten !!! Should I take out all my zoas and dip them in Coral RX? All of them have been opening well for weeks. Is that a sign that taking them out may not be necessary? I also have a few yellow wrasse helping to keep some of the pest under control.

Bro, want to sell me your pump? LOL !!!

Bro, My KH is 11dkh. Is that a problem?

Overflow??? why? Should have a hole on top to break the siphon or one-way valve installed for safety precaution.

DC return pump will be perfect for this application. I believe they have food timer as well that will resume flow in 10 minutes.

Bro, can share who is your tank maker? If not please PM me. Thanks.

But they won't be very stable right? Prata has a base that looks like an cone. It sits nicely on sand but on glass top it rocks back and forth.

show picture show picture.

What about those with barebottom? Can we place it on the glass bottom?

What is the condition to keep Cloves? Do they need target feeding?

Sponge are not easy to keep alive in tank for long. Anyone has success doing so?

Just an update. I removed the rock and tried to get the paly out. It is not as easy as what one might think. After a while, when all the zoas/paly closed up. There was absolutely no way to tell which is which. Anyway, I'm going to try again tonight. This time I will have my joe's juice ready. hehehehehe

Still no news hor? Seems like not many people used it yet.

That's a good idea. I can even use the T5 for my macroalgae. Anyone got used 2ft T5 please PM me.

Use the siphon tube that you can find in aquarium shop where one end is bigger diameter and use it to go over the sand. Do this as part of water change as the water siphoned out should be into a pail to be discarded. My preference will be barebottom. Don't need maintenance. hehehehe

Yes. Some of the nutrients will be consumed by the corals but not heavy metals. These heavy metals need to be get rid of through water change using RO/DI water.

That's my understanding too. They will slowly dissolved. When you see the number reduce, time to top up new bio-sphere. For rowaphos I basically test the input and the output from the FR. If the reading is high for both or the differential is near zero, time to change. BTW, anyone know where to buy it other than ML?

Does anyone here use a section of the sump as a frag tank? I'm thinking to setup one. The section can be used as a coral hospital tank or coral quantine tank as well. Anyone has tried it? Any comments on the lighting? I'm afraid LED may be too bright.

Slowly overtime with the new RO/DI changing water, your nutrient will start dropping.

New live rocks have a lot of crabs in them. May come back and hunt you later. So you need to "cook" them. Old live rocks from other reefers may have been exposed to high nitrate or phosphate environment and may be leaching po4 no3 for quite a while. Especially if the previous owner is FOWLR. Don't under estimate the effect of good live rock. Buying from ML may be expensive but I believe their LR is fully cured and low in nutrient. So you need to choose wisely.

May be you want to consider keeping small fishes. My 6ft tank used to house some of the biggest giant tangs (I called them cow). Now I find a reef tank with many tiny fishes (like anthias) actually look more pleasant and best still they won't knock my coral down and kill them accidentally.

This is how the sump looks on day one. Don't even have any skimmate. I'm sure it look different now. Nice tank by the way. How i wish mine can look like this.

Rowa is quite effective. My po4 was at 0.94 before, after replacing a new bottle, it dropped to 0.55 in one day. This is assuming you don't have anything in the tank that generate phosphate (e.g. something decaying, or old DSB that is leaching phosphate). As for nitrate, i would suggest to go for Bio pellet or bio sphere. They are safest way to lower your nitrate compare to vinegar dosing.