KingFish

Woah .... don't make me gian acro leh Morgan

I think I remember seeing that on Eaquanature.com, you can try them, Edmund seems like a nice guy.

During my research into setting up my refugium, I have found the following: Every time during cropping of Caulerpa (macroalgae), fluids containing caulerpin and the 30+ other metabolites it produces are released. I hear that caulerpa also goes sexual monthly and releases all it stored nutrients right back into the system. (???) Chaetomorpha Sp., aka Spaghetti or Brillo Pad algae, is much easier to deal with than Caulerpa due to the fact it doesn't attached to anything in your tank making it a breeze to remove for nutrient exportation. Can we even find Chaetomorpha here?

I kinda thought Big Als's prices aren't that attractive. There are quite a number of online stores selling saltwater acquaria livestock/equipment/kits (thatfishplace...etc) Dodo, use Google

To quote Tanzy, our SRC Resident Sea Turtle, If you have a reef tank, testkits you must have: Calcium Alkalinity pH (preferably electronic) Salinity (preferably refractometer) Nitrate Phosphate If your tank is new, include: Nitrite Ammonia Good to have Magnesium test kit too if keeping SPS. Recommended Test Kits Breakdown: Calcium, nitrate, phosphate - Salifert Alkalinity - Seachem Salinity - any swing arm type will do. The floating type hydrometers are harder to use. (Ref: kentkent's second question) pH - Tetra has a decent kit for good price. Nitrite and ammonia - the cheapest kit. You are going to use them once only during the cycling phase and are not required for regular maintenance. Only a rough indication of the presence of nitrite and ammonia is required. The cycle is considered to be completed when the peaked, then fall and nitrate goes up. You can read them off this thread, http://www.sgreefclub.com/forums/index.php...640f309f2564ea3

Let me try to lay out the preconditions/steps: 1) Proper curing of 'Dead' Rocks (FW dips and scrubbing) 2) Keep Phospates low (PhosGuard) 3) Dose calcium & alk (any recommended dosage? ref: tank size) 4) What kinda light? (PL/MH?) There is one more issue though, seeding may be easy but keeping it on the rocks may be tough as the water current will be blowing the 'seeds' all over.

fat lady in a tight bikini? sure to scare the swimmers out the water in a nanosecond

Hoooiii, on course got so much time ah..... or do it keep that archived for your dark twisted sexual fantasy (look under your mouse people, not for those with optical ones) We have 'Flatworm Busters', 'Coraline Transplant Team', 'Emergency Fish & Coral Rescue'; I know which team Spade will fit in nicely: 'Forum Situation Defuse Team (Leader)' - Your antics can help to ease certain tension in threads (save you some skimate bottoms-up and give AT more time to find us more lobangs).....

Does that mean the usual powerheads do not take frequent power on/off well?

Spade, two words man, 'skimate'.... 'por favor'.... Anyone remember the classic British comedy 'Mind your Language'? That's Farn (I think), the Spanish crank says all the time.

Bring your own tools, credit card works best. Classic card works fine, Gold is great, platinum is the best....

Ok, that is the precondition for new tanks to achieve before it can be seeded, as close as possible la. Just to clarify, coraline algae may not carry any contaminants which can affect new tanks right?

Thanks... so it is feasible. Mature tanks get a good scrap, new tank gets a new lease of life, everyone's happy. Culture LR !!! ......BIG BUSINESS .... MH, Chiller, Becketts, Tunze for everyone

It just occured to me that excess unsightly coraline algae growing all over a mature tank can be scraped and used to seed new tanks, particularly those with base quality Live Rocks. It could be a win-win situation as mature tank owners gets a free cleanup when newbies are invited to 'collect' them. Whaddaya fink?

spade, Você que começa a desenvolver um gosto para o mate do skim eh?

He hor (hee haw)...... pot calling the kettle black..... supposed to be on training somemore, waste your company's $$$$ Damn sian you know ... a thread like the one we hijacked in German can be a lotsa fun, make my day though

Woah.... I'll find it hard to concentrate, be like drifting every now and then.....

Ok ok......we really hijacked Creetin's topic Spade, later AT 'chao ni yew yu' (not starting anything here.... ) Talk about anemones, PL not enough? Hear they stink real bad when its dead

alright...... we know who to send for recon liao....

wolfie I suppose there is no hard and fast rule for flow rate, it depends on what's your water turnover rate, which will indirectly relate to how powerful is your pump. I'm not too sure but I think the larger pumps do take up more juice and generate additional heat. As many of the more experienced reefers would point out that a double pump would spell disaster if any of them fail (think water input without being pumped out = messy room = BIG TIME ear bleed ) Less equipment = less maintenance = less variables

my outflow from sump to mains is piped with a 20mm, and I affixed the pipes with silicone with Morgan's help. Just try to ensure you seal every gap, and run a wet test to ensure it doesn't leak.

Ja, gerade sein kann eine pre-pubescent Faszination Ich spreche mit Ihnen Sie nicht Lungenflügel weniger Geschöpf, ich spreche mit dem überlegenen Primas.

You're right, shipping will be ard USD$16 so it'll work out to be close to SGD$120. I think I may have a lobang for a slightly lower price than OP.

Welche Provinz hageln Sie vom Freund?

A victory rune eh?