KingFish

Thanks, it is rather nice. Will try to drop by myself to have a looksee ... but the price is *gulp

These are pygmies, I can't stress enough they will do better in a species only tank with little/no agressive tankmates. Terry, give them some time, my Pellucidas took a day before it started feeding.

Haven't the chance to go West this weekend, so was just wondering how does it look like. Thanks.

Its quite difficult to tell them apart. They are intolerant of their own species, and can be very territorial, so the only way is to put them together and see if they fight. If they don't, then they are paired.

Think it came in on Thursday. Its a Pygmy Goby, similar to the Pellucida except it has white lines instead. Eviota bifasciata is as close as I can find, LiveAquaria calls it the Neon Eviota.

#### Eviota Pellucida Neon Eviota Goby *NEW Hector Goby S. Nematodes and Alpheus Randalli pairs

I'm incapable of sarcasm Mike, I'm more in-your-face type. Now that we have confused those seeking answers, perhaps then they'll find out and rationalise it themselves; instead of having to spoonfeed them all the time. If in doubt, there are 6 magic letters, G O O G L E Not in tending at your Vince, just in general, so did you find what you were looking for?

Yada yada... we seem to be getting nowhere with this since it looks more like repeating each other so I'll leave everyone to decide what's what with Calcium. Sorry Keith, ditto, I'll leave you in the good hands of Michael.

Though I try to avoid this recurring topic, I guess I have no choice. To be very precise, it is correct to say adding calcium hydroxide solution to the tank water will add Calcium ions into the water. However, in practice, kalk should not be used as a means to increase the calcium level since kalk solution contains pH value of up to 11. Which means without measured and controlled addition, it will invariably affect the pH value in the water chemistry. Along with higher pH come hosts of other problems which I will not discuss, I leave it to you guys to find out. To extend a little on the correlation to pH value; if there is insufficient Carbon Dioxide in the water, the Calcium ions from the kalk solution will be precipitated out as Carbon Carbonate. A more economical solution to increasing Ca level in the water is the use of Calcium reactor. It works out cheaper in the long run though Calcium Chloride may not be so pricey now. Besides, the extensive use of Calcium Chloride will also lead to excess of Chloride ions in your water which is hard to export without a significant percentage of water change. But be warned though, Ca Reactor needs careful tuning or its a bane. I'm coming from the practical point of view when I mean 'increase' is to boost the Ca level in larger parts per million. I'm not even about to go into Ca uptake. We can go into a scholastic argument of what 'increase' mean, but it will be fruitless. I can add some flashy formulas but that would be too. So be it how advanced an aquarist think he/she is, arguing for the sake of arguing is pointless as it not only lead nowhere, but also confuses the ones learning - and I mean this in a polite manner.

Hmm ... in retrospect, perhaps I should not have used the term 'increase', it can be be open to misinterpretation. ervine and untouchables caught my drft and has attempted to explain. In any case... assuming everyone has read Randy's articles (yes, there are more) Michael & Infinitereef, Would I then be able to boost my Calcium level with use of Kalk?

- Keep your intended upload file less than 20 kilobytes - no more than 120x120 size; and - make sure a JPEG (image format) Try uploading this

only to repeat offenders besides, we do not really make it public unless really necessary PM will be the first form of communication. As we speak, he's busy explaining himself Rules are put up for the simple reason of maintaining order; else it'll be mayhem, members such as yourself will be frustrated too sieving through the trash for useful info.

think about this too...

What do I think? One too many vague topic, I'll give you until end of the day to let me know what you want this topic to be renamed to ...

Morgan: "When I saw those Moorish, I got a hardon up to HERE"

I wouldn't go so far as to say my theory is flawed, there are simply too many variables to consider. It is simply one approach versus another. Maintaining a certain density of plankton (X/ml I assume) in water to induce feeding is, at best, also hypothetical. You'll need to consider the consumption rate and if your system can cope with the excess. If the uptake is not fast enough; and taking into consideration that the feed is not LIVE, it will logically degenerate and contribute to the nutrient in the water. My feeding regime is restricted to after lights out, and when the corals go into feeding mode. But even that is conditional since corals may feed at different time of the day. I take the safe approach, so unless there is a way to find out the precise uptake to what I dose in my tank. I'd like to keep it within limits, because only bad things happen fast in a reef tank. So the key phrase here is: UPTAKE VS DOSAGE The same would apply to the other thread about the dKh & Ca, I'll pop over to explain when I have time.

I bought mine for under $20, but I understand the price has been increased. My bad

Congratulations buddy

Basically, besides the fact that it is one of the component in the growth of undesirable algae, the other effect is that it inhibits calcification. Try reading Randy's article article for an introduction. And if you haven't melted your brain yet, try this. Essentially maintaining good water circulation to prevent the accumulation of detritus where PO4 can gather is a better solution. Thereafter, its up to skimmer to fractionize it out for export.

Sorry to hear about Fuel's loss though. Perhaps now then, we should all keep in mind to keep treatment facility isolated from any disturbances. Not that we'll ever need them ya?

Well, congratulations DeepBlue What we did is force pairing, I can't remember if they are hermaphroditic, but there is only one other goby nut who has a true pair. You should see them together all the time, rather loving if I may say. They will also dance every now and then, entwining each other on ocassions. Let me know if you see anything peculiar eh? I'm documenting the behavioral patterns of my gobies

Hear hear ... , you hit the spot with that one Michael. Vincent, Ca & dKH has little to do with the fish's condition. Maybe pH but your reading of 8.2 is fine. A skimmer will to a certain extent by removing the DOM before it degrades to NO3, which in high levels can be a source of concern to even fishes, except the real hardy ones. That is one equipment one should not save on. Kalkwasser will not increase your Ca level, it only serves to maintain. I suggest a search on the Forum as I believe the use of kalk has been discussed in details. No algae problem does not indicate you do not have NO3 problems. Nonetheless, a reliable PO4 testkit is a good investment. A general search on basic saltwater aquaria water chemistry will also be good reading on a lazy long weekend.

According to FishBase, a juvenile Pseudodax Molluccanus has a blue lined dark tail fin instead of the two bands in Nicky's picture. The dualbanded tailfin seem to be exhibited in the adults instead, but then again, it could be a variant

Been a while since I updated this. So here's a group shot of the pairs, the randalli pair is still in the burrow.

Another sleepless night, so here's a picture of the Figaro Duo They do 'dance' on ocassions and are seen together all the time