nicreef

around 10 polyp or so - $40 3 polyp $15 around 8 polyp $40 around 3 polyp - $15 around 4 polyp - $20 around 8 polyp - $30 $40 Approx 5-6 polyp $30 collection in Sengkang. contact 9 zero zero 7 three two 9 zero.

bro how did u add the screws for the additional stand for the dosing pump? i am also using the aluminium profile. wanted to add some stuff to it but am lost on how to add in the additional screws without taking apart the aluminium profile which is probably required if i am to use nut and bolt. Only thing i can think of is something that goes in and open up from behind upon screwing but have not found anything like it. (kinda like those metal wall plug but need to open bigger)

Balance Frag G $35 and Frag J $30

Frag A reserved by ****4537 Frag b reserved by xxxx6055 Frag c reserved by xxxx6450 Frag F reserved by xxxx0900 Frag H & i reserved by xxxx8676 D n e reserved by ****3327

After shifting my tank and getting back actively into this hobby, i had several issue to fight with cyno and GHA being 1 of them. This are the solutions and steps i had used to combat them. Cyno Pretty sure this problem is solved since i had not had an issue with cyno for a month to 2 now. The solution i had used was ultralife red slime gone. I had tried the other brand dr g i believe but it dint helped much for my tank. For ultralife red slime gone, it only worked on my 3rd try but this is because my first 2 tries i had under dose the recommended dosage. Due to fear of lifestock being affected and also due to miscalculation on my part. For the 3rd try which successfully got rid of the problem, i had decided that if i can't solve it i am just going to let it be as such, i did a over dose. Recommanded dosage was 1 scoop per 25 gallon i think. My tank was 75 gallon and i dosed 5 scope on the first day. After 2-3 days (where by right i am suppose to on skimmer and do a water change), i did another 3-5 scope dose (basically i used the entire bottle during this try) than waited another 1-2 day before switching on my skimmer and doing the necessary wc. During the 5 days of dosing i stirred my sand bed regularly as i heard it helps. GHA i just finished my battle with bad gha problem. Imagine rocks totally covered with gha and lots of manual plucking. If i am to sum it up in the order of steps that i had done the work: 1. natural predator: i used seahare for this and they are really good. Only issue is you have to becareful of them being sucked into your wavemaker. So far my mp 10 had no issue but my rw-15 made 3 seahare shake for my tank. End up i had to use egg crates to block the corner where my wavemaker was to prevent such seahare shake from happening. The area has to block off completely as when i had some gaps at the bottom and side the sea hare was still able to climb into the blockout area. 2. rescaping of sump: how much it has helped is debatable. basically i did away with my refugium and went for bacteria media (used 2 marinepure media block largest size) and since it takes time for it to be effective i cannot judge base on this as it has only been a month to 2 since i last did the change. 3. AF po4 minus and rowaphos: used both. rowaphos is trustworthy in its work for me but Aquaforest po4 minus is tidier and much much less messier than rowaphos. Usefulness of aquaforest? i am not sure. had it running in my minimax near my return pump. 4: redsea NOPOX: imo this was what helped the most along with the seahare. Started using this about 1-2 weeks and i have yet had to reach my hand in to pluck any gha probably thanks to the seahare . Before using this i had to pluck the gha every once in awhile. Also i had stopped dosing polylab fuel and instead used the genesis (bacteria) together with this product. So to sum it up currently most of my gha are gone and i have no need for manual plucking as of yet. hope this helps

A. $25 (golden rasta) B. $25 c. $35 (approx 8 polyp) D. $15 (la lakers) E. $35 F. $20 G. $35 (not edmarld on fire which has red skirting under blue light this 1 is brown skirting) H. $25 i. $40 and j. $30 Collection in Seng Kang (Near MRT) anytime after 8pm or between 11am - 4pm. Contact: 9 zero zero 7 three two 9 zero

Think hard to find la bro ur sps too much Liao how to search [emoji16] Btw where u got this shrimp? Marine life? Nice colour n fat Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ur shrimp manage to survive in ur tank? Dint see them the last I went haha. Mine always get bullied by my wrasse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

nice bro i also find my tank cluttered. same shallow like urs been thinking of removing 1 rock but not too sure which yet =p

all zoas tentatively reserved pending collection thanks. will update if buyer backs out

Forgot to post collection in sengkang Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

lesson learnt focused too much on kh n ca

frag A - $30 Frag B - $30 frag c - $30 (not edmerald on fire but only difference is red skirting under blue light and non red)

Hi bro. will read up more on this when i can. sounds like a good idea....kinda feel pretty dump to monitor so much only to have such a obvious reason fail me. lol yeah it goes 1 circle in the mind. 1. This is creating a hole in my pocket got to stop spending 2. too much time (and pain) to maintain this dam tank 3. Sits down after the hard work and you go ahhhh.....i will do this all over again if i had too =p Updates Another 2 new casualties in the sps lost the yellow on this at first. Love it as it is the one piece that justified adding in the t5 to the set up. 27/06 RIP Parameters update: Been testing the last 2 days still 0 for po4. no3 also maintained at 5 hope it would drop soon. KH and CA have not fluctuated much at 8.7-8.9 and 450 respectively for the last 2 days

Wah this threads looks exciting. *pitch tent and bbq pit here

Lost of Corals As i observed my tank today at 2pm, i noticed my cherry blossom having abit of stn (but this is a pretty new frag so maybe nothing to do with the work done). Some of my older coral whom has been with me through a lot seems stressed. I kinda use them as my observation corals as they have been through so much with me and survived and each time they showed about the same symptoms when unhappy. my orange and green yuma isn't opening up as well as it usually does by 2pm (my lights on at 12 noon). Before i left home at about 3-4pm. it was about half it's usually size. The purple and green acan was deflated (below pic showing it deflated) instead of it's usually puffy self. my reverse sunset monti red polyps is about 50% of what i am used to seeing. other sps around the tank also seems to be losing its colour abit and poly extension is not as good as it used to be. while worried i had no choice but to leave my home. I was pretty puzzled too as my last parameter test seems ok except for the slight increased in no3 but this guys have been through worst reading than this! and i do find 5 acceptable actually =p Reach home around 7pm and while looking at my tank the corals looks the same.. stressed! (both the coral and myself). The cherry blossom is about 80% gone. As i had a guest around, i couldn't ignore them and just go to test the water parameters (which turn out to be a blessing in disguise). All i could do was look at the tank wondering what went wrong. Took me about 30 minutes of monitoring (my dining table faces the tank so i was basically looking at the tank instead of my guest) when i realise that my chiller is not showing the temperature! I am pretty sure i had turn on the chiller plug power yesterday but somehow it is not on... The result was the side switch of the chiller was turned off probably caused when i was squeezing some stuff between it and the sump.By the time i had turned it on the water temperature is at 31.5 degrees. So far list of coral lost 1 x aussie sps 1 x cherry blossom 1 section a lime green sps The rest of the sps seems ok for now except for the polyp extension and colour. the lps and softies seems ok and i am pretty confident they should recover but who knows.

Parameter monitoring: Forgot to mentioned that i had change the use of salt from DD to red sea coral pro yesterday too. Coupled with the refugium removal and also the expected lost of water due to skimmer going crazy thanks to the dosing of ultralife redslime gone, i am currently monitering my parameters carefully. 25/06 before work start: kh: 8.24 ca: forgot to measure no3: 2 po4: 0~0.03 (very slight transparent blue shown in salifert test) 25/06 after all work done (10pm): kh: 8.73 - probably due to the water change of approx 40 litre. Also red sea coral pro kh is higher (12.2 according to what is written on the tub) than what i used to maintain in the tank. ca: dint measure again no3: 2-5ppm (salifert test kit showing a slightly deeper pink but than again the slight difference might be due to tester aka me). po4: 0.03 (the blue is much more obvious this time round and matches the colour chart) 26/06 after all work done (1am): no3 and po4 still the same as 10pm 26/06 after all work done (2pm): - did a slight top up of salt water as the water lvl in the fragstation is a little low compared to before as i had not enough di water to replanish the water lost yesterday by the skimmer going crazy with this top up the total water change volume is about 65 litre kh - 8.96 - coral pro salt? last dosing time for kh was set at 12noon ( 2 hour difference) the result taken yesterday was also the same 2 hour difference from last dosing time since my dosage is done every 4 hours. ca: 450 - a increment over my last test done on the 22nd of june which showed 435. no3: 5ppm (pretty sure there is a increase in no3) po4: 0 (surprisingly the test showed a very clear result) -monitering will be done mainly for no3 and abit on po4 the other test would go back to normal schedule- 26/06 - 10.30pm just tested as i typed this: no3: still at close to 5ppm.

Now for part 2: sump re arrangement This was done just yesterday after a talk with a trusted and friendly reefer. Changes number 1: Re location of items and addition of media block The old area for the skimmer and chiller pump is now use for media block and chiller pump. Refugium area is now converted to skimmer with life rocks in front. Return pump outlet is done with a elbow to blow onto the bottom area of the rocks to prevent any build up of debris. Changes number 2: Adding of marine pure media block. You can see them in the first pic as i threw them into the water first in hope that the pods that i shake out can fill into the media block. Below the blocks in the before pic is where my phosphate remover/carbon goes. Changes number 3: changing of ugly green flexi pipe to pvc pipe. still not to what i wanted as i realize i have bought too little pipe. wanted to bend it to back of tank than to chiller for a tidier look. Currently still have 4 elbows unused zz Changes number 4: additional area to keep frag plugs Before and After look: vs So all in all, flow of water used to be: Down pipe -> filter net -> bacteria king media ring -> skimmer -> chiller -> Refugium filled with rocks/sand/cheetos -> carbon/po4 removal and bacteria king + coral chips. current layout: Down pipe -> filter net -> bacteria king media ring + Marine Pure media block -> chiller -> live rocks -> skimmer -> carbon/po4 removal and bacteria king as well as frag station. The rational of my skimmer being placed there was because of what i recalled on using biopellet where the outlet goes to the skimmer. since most of media are placed in front, i thought it would be better to place the skimmer as the final check point (except for 1 packet of bacteria king as there is a lack of space up front liao). The skimmer positioned there has another advantage i realized. This is because anytime my skimmer goes crazy (for example: epoxy or dosing of medication such as ultralife red slime gone) in the past i had to manually remove the water as the discharge pipe is too short. Right now with it being on the outside, i can just open up the cap and let it flow into a pail. Below is a closer pic of the new "refugium" area that used to be filled with sand and cheetos -end on sump re arrangement-

Been a busy week as i did quite a lot of stuff to the tank while finishing up the final moving in of the stuff to the new home. 1. my cyno problem was actually solved when i stopped using bio pellets some time back but came back again. Been using mild dosage of ultra life red slime gone (not on purpose to do it mild but than realize i remembered the capacity of my tank wrongly. kept thinking it is 25 gallon but it is actually 75 gallon with the sump included.) did 1 x recommanded dose for 2 days and added in 1 more times of recommanded dose for 1 more day for a total of 3 days). 2. did a re arrangement of my sump yesterday - removing Cheetos and sand. Rinse all media. Added a mini frag station. More on this later. Below are some pictures i took before the dose just in case. This time the photos are taken with a proper camera not a iphone as such there are some that are a repost of the above pics but just taken with a better camera. Also did some white balancing to remove the blue tint). added a old and new tag so i can rmb which 1 is bought after i "restarted" the hobby. Zoas: Alien eye with a sps survivor (colour balance focus was on the zoas. the sps is slightly lighter on the green) - new La lakers (growing all over the place in my tank zz) and the other not sure name but not emerald on fire (only difference to me is just this 1 under blue light not red skirting). -old Radioactive dragon eye? - old dunno the name of this any help with id? and 2 poly of sunflower lol - old Red hornet zoas (1 of my first new frag to the tank. Fast grower. came with 4 polyp currently 11 within 2-3 months or so) Prometheans zoas? - old Rics and Yumas new to the tank 1 of it is slightly bleached zz old yuma that has been with me almost since the beginning of the tank. Yuma rarely split so i am not too sure if this did coz i never bought 2 of this before) base on old photo too also only got 1 not sure where the other came from. Sps: reverse sunset monti that grew from a small little frag. (this piece lost it colour under my ai lighting - not brown but rather like cannot see the yellow but the colour started to come back after adding t5) dino monti (with a small view of a orange chalice and blue tear drop squamosa) - new got from irwana not too long back same got from irwana not too long back. Chilli pepper monti not really colouring up =x and my loyal green/purple acan whom has been with me for a long time.

Thanks bros. Been lucky that the same tank has been with me for the last 4 years with only some mishaps. Slowly restocking and clearing of the unwanted stuff

i am currently fighting aiptasia in my tank since coming back into this hobby. My observation so far after using 2 brand fuana marine (i think) and red sea aiptasia x. Both worked for me in killing the aiptasia but i think aiptasia x helps me a little more in preventing the spread (but give me a week more to observe since i started using it around 1-2 week back only this time round). i like the needle provided by aiptasia x especially the curve one which i found useful in reaching certain aiptasia blocked by rocks. I had some small aiptasia that grew into a colony of zoas and both solutions had been used on the colony itself. No harm seems to be done to the zoas as they will just close up and open up after some time has passed. What i had done was to off my wave maker and tilt up my return pump outlet to give as little flow to the tank as possible. After which, as per above using the syringe inject the chemical into the mouth of the aiptasia. You will see it closing up as the video but i usually dont give it time to slowly close up as i will just blast a lot of the solution to cover the surrounding areas so as to prevent any release of spores. Usually 1 aiptasia will use about slight less than a quarter of the solutions in my syringe. 1 small aiptasia will result in 1 big patch of white solution on the rock. after which, i let it "dry" up and on my wave maker 15-30 minutes later. In most cases this will cause the chemical that are not attached to the rock to be blown all around my tank (basically it is like it's snowing in my tank). So far no casualties that i have found that is directly related to the dosing of above mentioned 2 brand. My tank is a pretty mixed reef - sps, clams, lobo, zoas, yuma, rics, anemones (various type - carpet/tube/bubble), hammer, acans, abalone, sea cucumber, sea hare, snails etc heck i have even seen my hungry fish nipping on the "snow flakes" that are flying around sometimes spitting it out sometimes not (or maybe i just dint see it spit out) but everything in my tank has been ok summary: reef safe - personally i think it is, effective -subjective.. considering getting some natural predators of aiptasia since there are bound to be areas that i cannot reach. At the moment but it does seem that aiptasia x is doing its job limiting the spread as well as killing aiptasia...gonna need a week to be sure.

thanks bro still waiting for it to split lol i always thought they rarely split in the tank so was wondering whats happening to it till a kind reefer told me that is for yuma not rics. how long does it take before it splits usually? and the split portion will just attached itself nearby?

Love the hanmer torch octo area sibei nice can imagine them moving to the wave

Nice scolly and also acans! just saw some at seasonal dont dare ask price =p

Hi bro, Loved the way your light hanging bar compliments the house design. Darn too bad i finished reno 3-4 months earlier or else would consider doing something like that too. Also would be good to do regular bacteria dosing. I am using polylab genesis considering aquaforest after this but whichever it is bacteria is very very important. to me its something that i must do everyday especially with my heavy feeding of frozen food and dosing of coral food. Even if i never test my kh for 3 days also ok (but than again i am running a dosing pump) but 2 day never dose i feel like i have betrayed my tank liao =p Never used polylab one before (nor can i find much actual usage review doing a quick google search) do let me know if it is good if used. Still think it might be better to be able to control my ca, kh and mg individually instead of a all in one.