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Everything posted by diki88
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biasalah nie semua naga tersembunyi. kau punya tank ntah ntah pun mautt.
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1. Use fan, put in windy area. if not wrong, ur place can put outside ur house right bro. 2.before I used chiller last time for my old fowlr, max 32 degrees. but fish seem unhappy. 3. any thermometer will be okay I think. 4. for colours, no need to dose anything. anyways, if u were to ask me, since u already contemplating whether to go without chiller, any drop in colour or fish death will slightly be blamed on high temperature haha.
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very nice tank bro. nxt TOTQ.
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nice nice very nice. I just finished reading ur thread. awesome diy skills. ur 120w razor can cover the tank nicely ah?
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whisper quiet aquarium fans
diki88 replied to waterperson's topic in New to the Marine Aquaria Hobby
for the fan part, I find over time all fans will end up being noisy. its all relative. hope other bros can chime in. if u want to dose more kalk, try mixing vinegar to ur kalk mix. I can't rmb the exact parts to parts for the mix. can google it. but do it if u have a good skimmer. since adding vinegar to ur kalk will also have the benefit of carbon dosing ur tank but need a good skimmer for it. unless you are already adding vinegar to ur kalk, then we go back to the fan issue. -
bryopsis try kent tech M. raise ur Mg levels slowly. google it. many ppl had success.
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bro the sand that u got is from the white bags at the lower rack below the skimmers isit? if it is, keep a tab on ur phosphate levels. somehow the 3 times that I use then, 3 times phosphate will spike. all the best for ur setup.
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Improve survive rate of newly bought fish
diki88 replied to wanwan's topic in New to the Marine Aquaria Hobby
now that u mentioned this, I recall reading an article where for a new fish, even if it eats, most of it are not being absorbed for some reason due to stress. im guessing its for newly arrived fish as opposed to newly bought fish tht could have been awhile at the lfs and even pellet trained. for after WC, I dont think so. to give a morally conscientious advice, quarantine all fishes. new fishes usually succumb to stress and then all other diseases set in when stressed. so quarantine first. if u dont quarantine, even though u must, adding a fish straight into the tank is not that bad. there maybe conspecifics inside the tank but usually after a few flares over a few days, things will settle down. fishes especially non-obligate carnivores from my experience have this herd/mob instinct inbuilt them. they see other fishes eating, they will follow suit. this is not to say this method will work. some fishes hate a particular fish. all the more if they came from the same location where they recognise each other and know that the other fish will compete with it for food. -
Return pump rate 12x and above !?
diki88 replied to Dez Ching's topic in New to the Marine Aquaria Hobby
so that means slower is better since more water being skimmed before go back to your display. genius bro. but debatable. I learned recently only one way to do things when it comes to reefing. -
Return pump rate 12x and above !?
diki88 replied to Dez Ching's topic in New to the Marine Aquaria Hobby
some say try to match ur skimmer pump to rate of water going into sump. example 3kliters/h pump after headloss u get 2.5k. if ur skimmer pump is 2.5k also, apparently most efficient for ur skimmer to skim the water instead of a higher rate of flow. not sure hw true is that. -
nice tank bro
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bro im cycling my 3 footer now to fit in more corals. this tank still around but going to take it down soon.
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salt mixes are hygroscopic. basically it will absorb atmospheric moisture if available. once enough water is absorbed, usually calcium carbonate precipitate will form and harden. u can still use it although u may wana check ur alkalinity levels for it.
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REDJAY, WHY DIDNT YOU JUST DIE FROM YOUR ALLERGY? STILL CAN POST HERE. This is how I feel right now when I see that you posted again. its one thing posting your lovely beautiful totm material tank and another thing just being outright childish to someone who is actually advising you in a nice way. ClementC wasnt even being aggressive towards you. and to drive home that point, here's your first post, overdripping with sincerity. if this is the kind of person that you are, whole year long you got allergy to yourself.
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whats in ur first compartment?
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get two extremely different sizes if possible. easier to pair. if not will squabble to see who gets to turn female when they reach sexual maturity.
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Yep hope u get it up soon. Best of luck.
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and sorry, to TS : lower your nitrates first like many bros has mentioned before adding new fishes. Big Nitrate reading = big water changes. whether NSW or whatever salt water u use, change first before adding any fishes. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/ the link above will help in showing you the benefits of big water changes for nitrates. although my suspicion is not the nitrate reading but somehing else that is killing your new fishes.
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if you keeping fish only, dont bother about other parameters like CA,KH or whatever. unless your fish mutates a calcareous horn, only then you can bother about it. if u planning to keep fish only exclusively, then use tap water is perfectly fine since you dont need to bother about the phosphate/nitrates that come with it. nsw is a better choice, just more leceh/ troublesome to buy from farm and lug it back. if got copper in the nsw from the rust in the holding tank, all the better. free copper treatment for your fishes. personal experience for my previous FOWLRs during WC is like this : 1. drain water from tank to pail 2. empty pail of tank water. 3. replace with fresh tap water. 4. dump in salt and let it mix for 20 minutes. 5. put in fowlr. for water top up, 1. return pump noisy cause running dry. 2. grab pail, fill with tap water. 3. refill tank until return pump quiet. Please note what I do and how i do it, many people and websites will disagree and say its bad. but it has been working for me in keeping whatever fishes i put in my tank.
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Most probably no effect. the one that may go is the cleaner shrimps. MAYonly if your nitrates spike too fast and too high. which if you carry out what you said you will, minimal feeding and such, wont happen. Although if anything dies inside, you would instantaneously correlate it to your lack of skimmer. Btw, have you tried cleaning the skimmer pump? sometimes its just the impeller got something stuck. or sometimes need to just on/off the pump a few times to "kickstart" the pump.
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Means its taking a dump. Anemone eat and shit from the same hole. Make sure the prawn you feed is smaller than the mouth. Although the anemone can still eat the prawn, if its too big, it will just end up spitting it back out again and dirtying your water. my practice in feeding anemone is to feed these small pieces at the end of outer region of the anemone. no difference lah but I think it kind of simulates the feeding reaction of an anemone better when it catches at the outer region compared to straight to the mouth.