LittleBurger

I guess most of pple just buy n put the whole lr in. Does anyone find ways to reduce the size of lr or move coral to a small piece of let first, then attached to location? Me is buy coral n put in tank. But find tat sooner n later the lr quantity build up. Aesthetic wise Bey swee. If we want to maintain the structure of the landscape n don't try to change it, possible? Loo

Dun think u be putting all Corals at bottom. U can have diff corals type at diff levels. Some corals dun need strong light.

Closed my eyes n place order bk double cone 200. My early self reward Xmas present.... gonna be painful when I foot the bill...

Going to upgrade my Skimmer. Looking to get one that can either support a 3x3x2 or 4x2.5x2. BK Skimmer tat support this capacity is out, too ex. Zooming down to cone skimmers reef octopus, skimz, Atb. Am interested in vertex alpha cone but seems like sg very limited in varieties of Skimmer. I was searching thru the forum n chanced abt after sales support for Skimmer. Seems like only deltec provides good after sales. Skimz n reef octopus were not really emphasized to have gd support. For skimz I looking at sk181, for reef octopus xp2000 n Atb nano. Pricing are $425, $7xxs n $13xx. So far reading the web n the quality of Skimmer ultimately boils down to pump reliability n spare parts. Should the price of products equate to gd customer support? I thought so, but am I right to think tat way? Anyone got gd exp or bad to share. U can pm me too. Thks.

Hi everyone, thanks for all yr advices!

If I want to remove a panel in my sump to create more space, can i just remove the silicon? Thks

So what is the size u having now? mine is 36 x 20 x 24. Am thinking of 4x2.5.2 with external overflow. but am thinking should i go for 4x2.5x2 with internal overflow.

I feel time and money goes hand in hand. If a person dose lots of stuffs to a tank, then probably more time will be spent on "maintaining" it. so in order to reduce this "maintenance" time, automatic systems will be look into. More money pump in. I'm wondering can keeping a reef tank be "cheap". You see lots of different brands of additives in the market. Do we really need so much of these? I remembered a owner of a LFS told me just do more water change will be enough. I'm in the midst of considering to upgrade my tank to a rimless one, with thorough design, hoping to minimize the maintenance. One idea would be splitting the return line to multiple small lines and the LR will encase them to hide them. the flow from within the LR will probably keep most of the suspended particles from settling on the rock. Also trying to see if I can tap the solar power to run some of the fans. I saw the echiller from deltec and if we use solar power to power the fans in the day time. Sometimes I see the old birds decomming, n wonders why they r doing it. Is it something they realize down the rd to reefing. I read somewhere from a book from libray abt creating a portion of the reef, there are several parts of the reef which hobbyist can create but so far the author said he only sees people dumping everything into it. I think creating a reef habitat in the tank whereby u can sit down and watch the tank habitants' behaviour and see them grow will be generating sustainable interest in the long run.

Who like to know the views of pple who quit and those who quited n come back again. When time is a factor, is it no time to change water? I think the most tedious chore in marine is water changing. When money is a factor, is it the electricity bill is high? Why is it high is because there's a lot of gadgets? these r the only 2 factors I could think of. If dosing all those additives n strong skimmer, does it reduce the water change frequency? Do we really need to use so much gadget? Me only using a skimmer, fr(total 3 pumps), a mp40, a chiller n self DIY led light set. Dosing is manual using esv 2part. Esv mag, microlobe bacteria. I everyday go lfs must buy something. But now no more doing tat. is it when the excitement of buying n stocking no more than the interest die down?

Got this off from this link. http://aquascape-aquarium.blogspot.com/2011/04/how-to-calculate-water-chillers.html The following is a general calculation method to choose the aquarium chillers (heat factor of the lights and pump ignored before). Please note earlier, to cool water 1°C increments of 1 liter in 1 hour needed 4 Btu (British thermal units). For example, 1000 liters aquarium - initially water temperature is 30 ° C, and the desired temperature is 25 ° C. So it takes 1000 liters x 4 Btu x (30 - 25 ° C) = 20,000 Btu. If we use ½ HP chiller capacity (about 5000 Btu), the water chillers will run for 20.000/5.000 Btu = 4 hours. Furthermore, after the temperature reaches 25 ° C, the chiller will stop (not working) and start again at a temperature of 26 ° C (+1 ° C). After that, the time needed to lower the temperature into 25 ° C return is 1 hour. If we use an aquarium chiller with a larger capacity, eg, 1 HP (about 9,000 Btu), then the time needed of the 1 HP chillers to work is a half of the working hours of ½ HP chillers Conversely, if we use water chillers for aquarium with capacity less than ½ HP, then the time required for chiller to work become longer. This is what causes the chiller rapidly damaged due to lack of resources or working continuously without stopping.

U also have yr overflow in T shaped? The wavebox on the outside is a great idea! The tank interior would look more asthetic. Read b4 a book abt different parts of the reef thingy. And trying to choose to build the LR shape into tat principle. By the way, wat is the title of yr tank thread? I've searched by yr nik and not really can find it. Thanks.

This is my rough idea of my custom made tank. It will be a partition tank with the overflow side getting boxed up(with a swing door to access the vortechs driver that will be hidden in there. The overflow stretches thru the width of the tank. 2 separate built in acrylic box to double as the wavebox, with 2 vortechs(MP40) installed in it. I dun know should I fabricate the boxes. I am hoping the vortechs + wavebox combo meal will generate stronger waves. Any comments on this? The 2 waveboxes's top will be lower than the overflow, still unsure lower by how much. I hope to get more suspended particles getting draw to the overflow. I've not decided where to direct the return pump piping and 1 or 2 return pumps should I get. I'm hoping to hide all the pipings asthetically. I have an idea of hiding the return pipe within the LR piles and the flow will always help to prevent suspended particles from landing onto the rocks. Not sure if workable. Do you think the overflow design is too "overboard" & doesn't make much difference(in terms of luring suspended particles to the overflow) as compared to just getting a centre overflow? Rimless tanks look nice too. Not sure how much more ex than brace type tanks.

Is anyone using the ATI powercone series skimmer? Not much information on their webby. It does not have a drain pipe at the waste cup rite? In the midst of choosing a new skimmer to replace my old and looking at getting one which can support future tank size upgrade.

Mind to share what's yr tank size and return flow rate? Your return lines all in 1 direction? I'm thinking of using maybe 2 vortechs on one side to concentrate the pulsating power. And the return pipes pointing against the direction of the vortechs.

so a higher flow return pump n faster overflow rate will probably create a higher suction power to suck the particles towards the overflow box? Any idea of any tank u come across there are more than 1 down pipe to the sump? Cos I suppose more downpipes n stronger return pump/pumps will have a faster circulation rate. Hope to come out with a gd plan b4 custom make a new tank.

Is the position of the overflow box important? Most of the current tanks have square or triangular overflow box at a corner of the tank(mine is like tat). I'm looking at extending the overflow box, meaning from front to back. Have anyone saw the tank at Ah beng's place? That's the design I'm talking about. Stood and look at their tank. The suspended particles will flow into the overflow box. But for my tank(corner overflow), even with vortech wavemaker, the suspended particles seem to keep circulating in the tank. So does the position of the overflow box really aids in easier tank maintenance(more debris get removed from main tank to sump, instead of settling on the rocks?). Kum sia...

I got 6 of them.2 seem like female cos they bigger in size. Always see them darting in n out of the lr.saw the egg but never see frys. Didn't pair them up intentionally.

Wan sell things so yayapapaya.....hahaha

I using filter wool. Prob I go get 1 n try out.

mine's dsb. My seabed white n with crabeye goby around still ok. But the lr when my wavemaker turns on the detrius tat settle on lr get blown around. Hope to get crystal clear water.

went there b4. Quite limited. Only can find these fitting on usa websites.

ok thks. Going down n check it out, can drop by 328 at same time. I see ah beng's main tank, the suspended particles get moved to the overflow box but I think the desig of the tank plays a big part. Mine's overflow is at corner so some how a portion of suspended particles get cycled bck wards.wan to mod to minimize this effect, hopefully. Reducing detrius frm collecting on lr.

where can we get wide pvc fittings esp ball valves and threaded pvc connectors? Want to mod my tank. thanks.

definitely see bill reduction. Was using 150w mh. Diy a 8 pc 10w led. I.ve decrease the current as it is too bright. new lighting consump rate drop by at least half of 150w. Chiller kicks in abt thrice every hr n run for 3mins. Yr room so cooling. U would not regret going to led.

previously using individual powerheads to create flow. 2 main cons high elect consump n laminar flow. was deciding tunze nano or vortech. both give alternating flow. U will love the look n yr corals n ls will,love it. I got a mp40es wireless. Using the short pulsemode