LittleBurger

In case interested to know how's work at coral farm. Next mon channel 8, 8pm show.

Need advice on return & drain pip. Here is the pic. For 1st diagram, if the return pump kaput, the return pipe will siphon the main tank water. The siphon will only stop when the water level is below the return pipe opening? For 2nd diagram, if I modify the return pipe & add another return opening at the top, then when the return pump fails, the siphon will stop when the water level is below the top return opening? For underflow, when the water from the surface flows to the durso pipe and a suction is established, water from the underflow will get suck to the durso too? Is that the correct underflow design? Does the distance(divider) affect the underflow's suction? If the distance is to big like 1 inch, the main tank water will need to have a stronger flow to create a suction on the underflow? Thanks. Doing R&D on my next build.

Think aftermarket led light set coverage can't compare to MH. My DIY set is 1 10w led per heatsink, total 8 pcs, 4 white 4 blue. I can position them anywhere I like so coverage is gd. Also for led, I find that the reflector makes a diff, most of the time concentrating the light & becomes a spot light. Therefore U need more modules for same MH coverage. In the end, though LED is saving electricity, but with more modules for coverage, the power consumption is somewhat the same. The only advantage is the room is not warm and power saving is from chiller kicking less in. If we copy radion's led color bulbs & make a DIY, I think the light effect will be better than most pple just using white & blue leds. However the cost will be high, might be close to the price of a radion. And that is only on price of hardware alone, radion's software is a candy bar. Individual control for each led color, like an Android OS. Still can pair up with vortech pump somemore. Before seeing radion, I am very satisfied with my DIY led set, after looking at the versatility of its software, I'm contemplating to get 1.... But first I need to buy an iphone 4s or a LV bag for my CO to get approval.... Waiting for your test result!!

How's the light coverage? The demo at Madpetz is over a small tank. U mentioned the radion comparable to yr mh, is in terms of brightness n coverage? U hang the radion same height as mh?

Found this guy doing a review on radion. http://www.remsreef.com/2011/09/preview-ecotech-marine-radion-xr30w-led.html Look & see. Actually I hope to see in person a radion on a 3ft by 2ft tank. The software is really cool.

I just got a fist size clump and put into sump on last fri. Was using a 3W cool white power pac bulb. Yesterday, see some of the chaeto "disintegrating".... Went to buy a philips 5w warm white bulb yesterday and installed. Monitoring the outcome. Been reading about chaeto issue all over the internet. Most said if running FR(phos & nitrate removal) then success rate with chaeto is lower. 1)Suggested adding iron additive. But too much iron is poisonous. 2)Have another water line feed direct from main tank to the refugium, normally pple put skimmer at the start part of the sump and most pple use higher rated skimmer for their tank and it skims out the food for plants. I've seen pics of pple putting the refugium in the initial part of the sump. Maybe tat's the reason too.

Using cool white or warm white?

I hinted to my CO that I spend $ on my real fish tank then on mermaids. I will also be spending more time at home to look after my tank. Gave her 2 choices, I ask my CO should I upgrade my car's BBK or buy fish items. Guess she got the hint after I make her mind work out the pros and cons...

I'm not guru but I think if the flowrate to chiller is too strong, the chiller might not have time to cool the water down. I'm using teco15 and was reading on the flowrate for chiller and found that if flowrate is too fast, chiller not enough time to contact with water and chill down, therefore consume more power. This is what I read from a blog.

Hi. Giving away a 1.5" teardrop butterfly away. Sadly voracious pellet eater but after advice from forumer advice, sit down in front of tank & saw it nibbling at my seafan. Though keep feeding n feeding, it just Suka suka swim over n peck peck here there. Collection at bukit panj, SEGAR RD.

Hi. Had pm u .

Anyone can share their exp on this angel? My guess is my 1st n 2nd angel develop swim bladder prob. My first angel was doing well but one day u just see it started to swim head down. My recent bought angel was also doing fine but later exhibit the same symptom. All my other fishes all ok. It seems like swim bladder is high chance gone case.... Someone tried venting? Is this angel more susceptible to contract swim bladder?

Oh man. Looks like got to net it outta tank and give away...

Hi. Bought a teardrop butterfly from Ah beng. Diff websites give diff views on reef suitability. I've cut some slits on the plastic bag which holds the fish and clipped inside main tank. Pellet food is fed to it for slightly more than a wk. I judged the response of the fish's eagerness to chase after the pellet food. Seeing its "positive response" & "never got enough of pellet food" attitude, I decided to give it a try and release into the main tank. So far so gd. Am looking out for my red fire shrimps if got kana attack. I guess if a fish is being well fed, it will probably not feed on corals. my garang blue tang munching those cheap plate porites and attacking others and i overturned all landscape to get it and donate to a LFS. Tat's solely on my short experience. The question I have in mind is, anyone tried buying a "not confirm reef safe" fish and try to alter its feeding behaviour? If so, do you choose a young specimen or older specimen? Have you been successful? Thks.

Hi, in the event the return pump kaput, will the underflow keep on draining water to the sump? I'm thinking of incoorperating automatic valves in series with a manual valve(in case auto valve fails n need to replace). Cos I'm thinking of opting yr suggestion to have a mid underflow and low underflow for better water exchange from main tank to sump. However, with good water exhange, watever goodies I dose into main tank will probably get transported down to the sump and get filtered or skim out. With the auto valves, during feeding can activate them to close the return pipe and downpipe and so the goodies stay in main tank for the corals.

I think dawn n dusk effect is important n cool. Passing cloud, thunderstorm etc not so crucial. Once u see the dawn effect u luv it. But I've never seen a passing cloud effect so who knows I will like it once I see it. I feel having pple r trying to have products tat mimic the real world, so tat a reef tank habitats will experience the same effects as the natural environment. My DIY 10w led is 4 white n 4 blue, Just attached to 1 heatsink each n attached to a aluminum bar. I don't measure the par. Everything looks OK. my leds all prc made. I spend abt 450$ n that's abt 2 yrs bck. I dun know if I use Cree led the growth will be better. Someone posted abt rapid led frm USA n I'm contemplating to do another DIY. But it seems like total cost would be high, need to do acrylic housing too. Also u dun know should the central leds without reflector n only perimeter led rows use reflector. All these trial err add to building cost. The cost might be just a little less than those readymade. So using China leds seems to be more justiflying to DIY. But then again on readymade products..... I've seen pple posting pics of maxspect on reefcentral. Seems like with led reflector, the light is more focus..more like spot lit. I Google on eco raDion n a person frm a blog said the product light spectrum already fail, failed product. Splash very cold water.

Led definitely not Cree brand. I've walked n basically asked all the shops at SLS for data spec. Only few can give u the wavelength spec. others simply bo chap. U can only state Wat color u looking for. If u ask them is it 450nm they can't answer u. China led makers or sellers either not so particular on branding their products or maybe lack the Marketing knowledge. Frankly speaking, so long the led lights can support coral growth, specs dun really matter. Tats if on budget. If got the moola, buy gd led from makers with proven record.

Day 6 of running. Refer to video. So far only clean the neck of the skimmer. One good thing about a large diameter neck is cleaning is easy. Just reduce the water level and the hand can fully stick into the neck and wipe out the scum. My black clown & bali clown(was told that it's from bali) spawning So far they have spawn quite a no of times... but never get to see the frys....

Anyone try bright well redox lean solution? Not sure if the compounds same as ultra life red slime remover. It seems to break down DOC and make skimmer easier to get them out. Thinking of trying it.

This is how big the collection cup is .... After 1 day of running The white tip of the pump is used to adjust the air and water ratio, according to some chinese websites. Fully screw in is minimum. Still unsure which is the optimum. Somehow when the tip is screw out alot, u can see some big bubbles in the reaction chamber. Thankfully the 1000l rated skimmer able to pull up some scum from my 82gal tank. Was afraid over capacity. The red tubing near to the silencer is for ozone injection. As a panel was removed to make room, there's no tray to put filter wool and carbon. So bought this from NTUC and drill more holes. So top tray for wool and 2nd tray for carbon.

Great quality. Performance wise not sure yet cos not yet install. Maybe too much for my 82gal tank. Had read tat bk price is few times high but performance not few times more than other skimmer. I choose bk over sro is due to the pump. Likewise I had spent on countleS's powerheads but nothing bests a vortech, low heat transfer n less space used. Electricity rates keep going up... to maintain hobby need spend on more energy eff parts.

i know reef depot sells. But there are some other selling when I was looking high n low for it. But for double cone model, seems like no one brings in. Been busy with my work. Going to remove a panel in my sump to have more space to installation

Never have I foresee I would dump in the $ for a BK. Had always been self modifying the impellers but outcome is always not I expected. Inititally was planning to upgrade my tank to a rimless 3 or 4 footer but would have to put on hold at the moment. There were moments I was abt to give up reefing but somehow I stayed on. Maybe I'm would rather try to spend $ on the real fish in a fish tank, then a human in a fish tank, if you get what I mean. Ultimately, everyone needs to have a hobby. The nite I was ordering the BK, I had a hard time trying to click the "checkout" button. Discussing with my wife and showing her that this is the so-called "louis vitton of skimmers." Why I choose LV as a comparison is cos my wife is a LV fan. I always wonder why she is so happy with an LV. Guess I know why now. Was having sleepless nites and checking the shipment status every now & then. Finally, it's here, after 7 days of waiting. The parcel

http://www.cmfish.com/bbs/viewthread.php?tid=95198&extra=&page=25 All in Chinese. Chinese must be super powderful....

Not sure if placebo effect. Had modified my sump. last time the water from main tank drop to filter wool, the distance or area is maybe less than 8cm. Now it's like abt 20cm. All the splashing sound..... I got 2 thermometer, at main tank & at return pump of sump section. I see that the temp for both area will fluctuate between 27-28.8C, without chiller running. Also I notice that if I leave the sump cabinet open, the chiller will not kick in too freq. Also notice the air in the sump area is warmer compare to the room temp(by feel). When I come bk hm, i feel chiller not warm at all. Occasionally check & chiller not running. Seems like maybe 4-5hrs never run. equipment r haelia 6540, ehiem 1262, aquabee 2000, mp40w, diy LED light set. No change in equipment operation time. only con is rate of evaporation seems high. Anyone can verify this?