kira76

Base on the design, small signature and minimum heat addition to tank temp, I'll say it's worth it. Not to mention the various model of operation available on the ES.

mine just a slight humming when operating in short pulse mode. Only noticeable during nighttime when everyone is asleep.

Ya, please pm me the price and where to order too. I'm interested.

Please PM me too. am interested to know. One of my target species.

Any pics of the end? Interested but need to see the end to determine how to mount on my tank.

Erm, so its true that they might release toxic when frag huh?

Heard that once you cut those shrooms in half, they tend to release toxic chemical into the water. Is that true? Cos I'm considering to frag my Rics too but am afraid that they may release toxic into the tank when recovering.... Anyone can advice?

Pls PM or sms/call me at 97676950. Interested in some of your blue rics.

Is this a DIY temp controller? If so, then it depends on the brand of the controller. However, I see a set on one of the buttons. Maybe you can try pressing and holding it. Usually that's how it works. I just DIY a set of external temp controller using an Italy brand controller. Lucky it came with a manual. Cos there was so much functions of the controller. Even setting for different type of probes.

darn, a bit too late for the vortec. Anyway. upzz for your sales.

Am waiting for TS to contact me for the details and to discuss. Realize that the wireless ES conversion kit plus the price that TS is selling is almost the same as new MP10wES. If indeed it is an older version, I'll need to conversation kit for it to work in syn with my MP40ES.

Hi, Interested in the Vortech MP10 wavemaker. Can I confirm that it is the ES version. Will PM you my contact.

Ya, now all ES version liao.

A simple question, can I get my regular air con guy to service the chiller for me?

upzz, used for 2 weeks only. IBS buy.

Selling 6 red mushroom mounted on a LR for $15. Biggest around 3" in size when fully expend. Collect at Sembawang. Interested please sms/call me at 9 seven 6 seven 6 nine 50. Reason for selling, going to concentrate on SPS, LPS and rics.

I've did a search yesterday and found out that Hailea chiller temp probes are in the main water tank. Initially when I set up the chiller, it was kicking in/out a few times within an hour. I initially though that it was normal. Subsequently, when the problem of temp difference comes in, I asked around and was told that it could be due to low flowrate, thus, I've changes to a 2000l/hr pump. Kicking in/out seems to be reduced but it's still not within the norm of say, chiller kick in for 30mins, kick out for 10 mins. Can't be that the chiller is so efficient right. byw, I'm running the Hailea 300A on a 3x2x2ft tank. Is it consider overpower?

Just did that yesterday night. Wonder why Hailea Chiller manuals never teach you how to calibrate their chiller temperature. Seems better now but the chiller temp can only be caliberate to +/- 1.5oC The kicking in and out have retured to normal. However, I found out that for the chiller to kick in like 3 to 4 time within an hour isn't the norm. Seems like getting an external temp probe is the only solution to this.

Hi bro, your 3ft light what brand?

Lol, didn't see the parameters reading. Guess you are right.

Actually could be due to cyanide poisoning. I lost 5 clownfish like that too. Was doing fine today, next day up lorry liao with white slim coating without other warning signs. Read that most clownfish in SG are wild caught using cyanide. Thus decided to only get cative breed clownfish from now on. Having said that, cycling tank using hardly fishes isn't really advicable. Esp so when TS intend was to keep lionfish. Unless you intend for these clownfishes to become feeders for your lionfish.

LOL, I think it's the brand name. Anyway, I'm also using those big magnets ment for 12mm and it works fine for me.

I think you need to add the 1 to the 7 digit infront.

That idea did cross my mind. But I was reluctant to remove the box as it'll mean that I need to disconnect the chiller from the hose again.

Hi all, For the past 1 month plus, my Hailea 300A chiller was running perfectally normal with temperature set at 25oC. The main tank temperature reading from my PinPoint wireless themometer was about 26oC, so I live with the 1oC temp difference for the past month and take it that the chiller temp probe was not caliberated properally or not accurate. Recently, due to wife complain that chiller is ugly, I've custom make a box to cover the chiller with opening at the front and back for air circulation. However, after installing it on monday night, I woke up tuesday morning with the whole tank cover in condensation builtup. Immidiatelly I knew something was wrong with the chiller. Did a check on the temperature of the main tank and realise that it has gone down to 23oC. Was advice by someone that my pump flow could be too slow. So yesterday bought an eheim compact+ 2000. Installed it last night and set the chiller tempeerature to 27oC. Having done all this, my chiller this morning was still displaying a temperature of 27oC++ dispite my PinPoint Wireless themometer showing a main tank temp of 24.9oC. I;ve also notice that the chiller was kicking in much more often then before. So is it normal for the chiller to display a temp that was higher than that of the main tank? Or does this only happens to chillers that was housed in confine space? My last resort will be to get an external temperature controller to control the chiller.....