tofubox

Hey guys, Got myself a new set of ATI, but realise my ceiling is way too high and the hood is too wide to allow the lightset to sit on it. Where can i purchase an L shape mounting bracket? Ive seen those from gisseman, abit costly. Any recommendations? Thanks

You can get filter sock and bracket from iwarna. 2 Models to choose from if im not wrong.

Hi Guys, Have the below mention item for sale. Used for only 3+ months, When tank cycling, did not switch on the lights. Good as new! 40" Metal Halide / T5 456WThis MH 40" fixture is The light saltwater / reef setups. Lightings combines 2x 150W HQI metal halide, 4x 39W Actinic Blue T5 HO lamps, and 4x Bluemoon LED in one single unit. This unit features external HQI controller, removable cooling fan, and anodized aluminum housing. Individual power cords and power switches maximizes usability and timer ready! Features: Dimensions - 40” x 13.5” x 3.0” Total wattage: 456W Supports 2x 150W HQI lamps Supports 4x 39W T5 lamps Supports 4x Bluemoon LED Individual power cords for each function Quick Disconnect external ballasts Non-corrosive powder coated aluminum housing Bulid in cooling fan Glass splash guard Highly polished reflector CE Certified Selling for $200! Sms 90020585 Thanks!

Hey bro, i think the easiest way to identify your problem. Is to test your water parameters. More importantly, check your ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. Also, more info will be good. How big and how old is your tank? Are you adding fishes too quicky? Did you quaranteen your newly acquired fishes? Do you test your water reguarly?

What would be the recommended flow rate for the pump used on a phosban reactor for a 450l tank? Interested in trying BP as well. By the way, any bro can enlighten me what is GFO? Currently running a deltec reactor with rowaphos, last i checked, its clear white in my test kit, i persume its almost 0 P in my tank. Can i still use BP since they need all 3 elements mentioned to work in temdem?

Hi guys, Need some urgent advice on my calcium reactor. I understand that rowalith melts at a certain ph level. Done some research, some say 6.3, some 6.7, some 6.5 Since im setting up my calcium reactor all over again, what ph should i be setting on my american pinpoint controller? It has high and low reading. If i am targeting for my effluent ph to be 6.5 can i set high as 6.51 and low as 6.49? Any bros there using american pinpoint ph controller for ur calcium reactors? What should my settings be for starters? Before i start tuning? By the way, im using a Deltec PF509, with fixed paristaltic pump, Bubble rate at 1 bubble/ sec. Is this right? Advice most appreciated!

Hi guys, Need some urgent advice on my calcium reactor. I understand that rowalith melts at a certain ph level. Done some research, some say 6.3, some 6.7, some 6.5 Since im setting up my calcium reactor all over again, what ph should i be setting on my american pinpoint controller? It has high and low reading. If i am targeting for my effluent ph to be 6.5 can i set high as 6.51 and low as 6.49? Any bros there using american pinpoint ph controller for ur calcium reactors? What should my settings be for starters? Before i start tuning? By the way, im using a Deltec PF509, with fixed paristaltic pump, Bubble rate at 1 bubble/ sec. Is this right? Advice most appreciated!

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Fire and Ice - $22

Will a 6 tube be enough if im going for sps for upper half of tank? Seriously considering ATI power modules.

Hey! Was also thinking of changing my lightset to ATIs. Just a quick question, for a 3 2 2 Sps dominated tank, how many bulbs and how many watts each bulb should i be getting?

Love the tank and design of it How about a picture of your sump!

Oh ok! So is it safe to assume that zoa eating nudibranch will die of starvation eventually not not attack my other corals?

Anyone knows where i can purchase, Salifert's Flatworm exit? I understand its one of the best solution.

Hey guys, Woke up this morning to see my tank glass covered with 4 or 5 of these little pricks. I have since remove all my zoas and did a coral dip, removed as many of them as i could and place them in the QT tank to observe. Question is, how am i going to remove or kill the remianing nudibranch in my DT?? Done my fair share of research. Most of the chemicals suggested aint available in our LFS. I also can't introduce a butterfly in my tank, as i have a fair bit of LPS and soft corals. Can i add a 6 line wrasse? I already have 2 leopard wrasse inside my DT. Will they end up fighting? Need some advice, maybe any bro here can intro me their own method of removal?

Hmmm, using underflow sump? Maybe u can silicon a short glass, the height of your intended sand level, about 1 inch away from the underflow to seperate the sand from the underflow area. Just my 2cent.

Hi guys, My sandbed has some diatoms, since i released my goby to a nice reefer. Was thinking of an alternative which wont mess up my sand in the tank. Anyone has any experience keeping sea cucumbers? I understand they are one of the best for sand dwelling clean up crew, doing an excellent job keeping the sand clean. But i also understand they can be toxic when they release toxins into the water by dispelling their guts. It is possible for their toxins to wipeout the tank. Anyone has experience keeping a sea cucumber? Should i be getting one to keep my sandbed clean? Or absolutely stay away from it? Need some advice! THANKS!

Hey guys, about 6 - 8 pieces of medium - large liverocks for sale. Left over from after scaping my tank. Take all for $20. Contact me 90020585. Thanks

Hey guys, As above, anyone has a RO/DI unit up for sale? Preferbly crystal pro, 3 stage. sms, 90020585.

THanks for the info guys. I do have cheato growing, its in the basket. in the middle sump. Looks like i wont be needing a DSB since the size of it wont be efficient. Sticking to mangroves and cheato then. Middle sump probably put live rocks in that case. Or any better suggestions? Already maximised the sump area to fit the "DSB portion" when i was designing the sump.

Equipment listing: 3 ft x 2 ft x 2ft Tank and Hood - 12mm glass, Front panel crystal glass, IOS Skimmer - REEF OCTOPUS OCTX 160 Lightings - 2 x MH 250 watt, 4 x blue T5 54Watt per tube (high output), Blue LED, Electronic ballast Calcium Reactor - Deltec PF501, with American Pinpoint PH Controller Phosphate Reactor - Deltec FR 509 with Rowaphos and Rowacarbon Wavemaker - 1 x MP40w Return pump - Ehiem 1262 Uv Steriliser - Coralife turbo twist 6X Chiller- Hailea 300a 1/4HP

haha, yeah, ive read a couple of websites saying a dsb should be >6". I guess i'll have to increase the height, if not its probably useless the way it is now.

Hi Guys! Just to share with all of you on some updates for my tank. Added an overhang in the middle. Its very stable and looks pretty neat. Hope i didnt destroy the whole "open concept" of my tank yet? Comments most welcome! If you look carefully, my monti frag is actually browning, due to the previous scaping, where i put the frag too low from the lightings, and totally forgot about it. Trying to salvage it back now. Heres a picture of my quaranteen tank, set up for about 1 Week + now. Got the Cabinet from ikea for $110, fits the tank perfectly. Had my bateria cultured in my DT first. Finally got my tang to start feeding on pellets with a turkey buster, but he's still very shy, hiding in the corner where i have my wavemaker. Ich problem seem to have vanished. No spots for about 1 week. Hoping it stays that way. Took a picture of my DT's Sump for some feedback. Is the DSB too low? Should i be adding another bag of caribsea black sand? And finally some pictures of my mangroves. They are growing really well. Thanks thairun for the mangroves! I picked up some mangroves too when i was in malaysia. Feel free to comment!

Really depends on what lighting and how strong the lighting u are using. But a good start will be , 10hrs- 12hrs T5, 8 hr -10hrs Metal Halides. Like i said, it all depends.

Great Scaping, looks better than before! I really like the idea of big tanks having islands. Looks more spacious in my opinion. Just some ideas to share. Instead of the rocks on the left side being stacked up against the glass. How about making a "stand alone" island. Meaning to say, it wont be touching any of the glass, makes maintainence easier too. This island can have large holes, overhangs, nice structures. This will give the fish more options of swimming under the rocks/overhangs, through the rocks to the back, in and out the island. Much like an SPS tank scaping. Personal perference bro, ur scaping is already Just sharing ideas so u have more options to play around with.