tofubox

Biopellets reduce po4 by a very small degree. From my understanding, denitrifying bacteria uses both no3 and po4. Hence, if u have one of them low, and the other high, u get an imbalance which may take awhile for the higher component to reduce. This is why people incorporate both rowaphos and biopellets as they both reduce np3 and po4 in a good tandem. Biopellets are good to deal with high amounts of bioload + Feeding. And also if u trying to achieve low nitrates to keep more demanding corals. U will be fine with just a fuge + Cheato + red algae if u plan on just keeping 1 or 2 tangs. If u feel like ur no3 is constantly too high, u can incorporate a biopellet later by slowly increasing the amount of biopellets within the reactor. Another alternative is to stick to your fuge, and than start doing carbon dosing. I.e Vinegar and vodka dosing when ur fuge is unable to keep up with the nitrates.

Hey guys, Still looking for the following models Deltec MCE 300 Reef octopus BH1000 Any similar models for tanks 50-100gallons 90020585, Jarrett. Thanks!

same, i'm gonna add a wp10 to my barebottom with wp25 currently running. 2ft tank as well. I think it depends on what fish u talking about. But haven't had any problems with my fishes with high flow. I watched a video before, normal tanks with lower flowrates that had fishes dying, when they disected the fish, they realise it had fatty liver. Compared to a high flow tank.

Im using maxspect razor 10k, but i vote kessil.

Yes adding sugar is the same as vinegar and vodka, its called carbon dosing. But i recommend using vinegar or vodka instead, its easier to control the dosing compared to sugar, and more people have had positive feedback with these two compared to sugar.

Hey bro, dont have expirence keeping lion fish, but i can offer a few advise. Did a search on dwarf fuzzy lion, seems a 50gallon is the minimum, a 4ft tank will definitely be large enough. For 4ft u can consider maybe a medium sized lion if its gonna be your sole inhabitant. Heres the thing with using canisters for filtration, many have done it will lots of success. Many choose not to use a canister as they find it may become a nitrate factory sooner or later when stuff starts getting clogged up. If u use a canister, just make sure u are doing regular maintainence. So sump or canister? It depends on what u currently have. If u already have a 4ft tank, with no overflow system, no sump. U can consider using the canister as filtration. The canister size will also be important, but if only one fish, u wont be getting alot of bioload, so it should be fine. If u are planning on building a new tank, and for 4ft, definately consider getting an internal overflow system with a sump system. This gives u more room and flexiblity later on when u consider putting in more equipments. i.e Reactors, a different skimmer, more bio media, a refugium etc. Also maintenance on a sump is easier and gives u extra water volume overall for the system. If some day u decide to go for corals or a mix reef with fishes, u will have a complete system ready to go. I cant answer the rest of the questions as i have not owned a lion fish, maybe the other experts can help?

Hmm, Maxspect razor nano is insufficient in my opinion. I am using a Razor 120w over a 2x1.5 and find this just nice, or i might even get the lens kit soon. I believe the nano version only has 1 set of led which might not cover your cube too well.

Wow thats alot of flow already for a 2ft tank, assuming u using jebao wp25? What mode do u have it on?

Jebao if on tight buget, not much review at the moment, but has nice controllable feature, their wavemakers seem reliable enough. Else go for eheim if you can. A reliable return pump is definitely an important equipment.

That will work great

Hi, I did an exact same dimension 3x2x2 with top hood and cabinet, front crystal glass, overflow box, sump tank for $600+++, have the receipt still! But i got it in 2007 Than again you mentioned its full system. Does this include lights, pumps, skimmer, wavemakers, liverock, sand etc etc??? If it does, 3k is a resonable price depending also on the brands being offered for the full system. Anyway, i suggest in investing on a chiller. With our weather, the rate of evaporation is a killer. You will need to top up with RO/DI water daily. Also, the corals and fishes are more comfortable and this will decrease the risk of diseases and lost of corals etc. You can still get away with keeping soft corals and anemone without chiller in my opinion. As long as your water dont go pass 29 degrees. Keep it somewhere cool with good ventilation. My 2ft nano has no chiller, with an anemone in it, doing just fine. temp hovers ard 28 degrees. I try not to let it hit 29. Techincally, with the correct lighting, you dont have to feed your corals. Or at the very most, some supplimented coral food, once or twice a week will suffice. I don't feed my soft corals, they get all the food by photosythesis and my fish poop. They are still doing just fine. As for anemones, its abit tricky, they tend to act more like a live animal than a coral. It requires supplemented feeding of brine shrimp once or twice a week, sometimes if i forget, i dont even feed my anemone. But when lights come on, its opens nice and big.

Hey bro, yup you got the main components covered in your sump. As for bio chem zorb, if u feel it works for you, you can stick to it. When its depleted you can also try other brands like rowa carbon, seachem matrix carbon, pura carbon etc etc. All work on small principle, just put it in netting and throw in sump, or if you have a spare fr, can throw it in too.

Heres the post by Admiraltian =D

Yup, certainly a hit or miss fish. That said, I have seen many tanks with great success introducing their flame angel. Be caution though, recently one of our reefer had a tough time catching his flame angel as it was nipping at hes corals. Finally managed to catch it, and i think he just sold it off in pasa malam! Great beauty, pity it was a coral nipper, or i would have got it too! End of day...hit or miss. lol. Your call if its worth the risk bro, since its driving you mad!

Hey bro, personally my opinion is how high will your stocking/bioload be? Cheato works great in reducing nitrate and phosphate, base on your sump size, u could probably still run it, but since its only a small amount, it can deal with small bioload, no problem. It doesnt require alot of room, just good lighting, once it gets out of hand, just trim it down. If however you plan on heavily stocking your tank, definitely consider running biopellets/ rowaphos reactors, these are heavy duty and will be able to match up with your tank's bioload. Since the tank is new, its easier to start running biopellets from the start. If its already established, u need to slowly raise the amount of biopellets which can be a hassle. Alternatively, if u have the room, u can run both. Ultimately the biopellets and cheato will be competing for nitrates and po4. The cheato might die eventually(careful as it may release back nutrients), and u can go solely biopellets. Polyp lab reef resh is more of a carbon dosing method. I am personally using this on my system at the moment, 2weeks in, nitrates have dropped a little, i also went barebottom, so i can't say if its entirely due to the reef resh system. That said, its not a "put and forget". U need to be diligent about dosing everyday. Reef resh is more straight forward in terms of dosing. Unlike vinegar, sugar, vodka doing. My opinion is that it will take some time and diligent testing of water. For a brand new tank with low load, and slowly adding more livestocks over days/weeks. It may be tough to determine what amount is required for your tank to maintain that targeted Nitrate and phosphates. If i were you, and starting from scratch, i did run biopellets at the start and throw in some cheato at the same time, if it dies and my nitrates/phosphates are undetectable, i'll just run solely on biopellets.

Hi, where to deal/pick up?

Hi Charlene, welcome to the forum. We all make mistakes so just learn from everyone in this forum. My opinion now is to make sure u are changing out the water everyday! Thats the only chance you got to keeping it alive in that small tank. You have to change it everyday to reduce the ammonia eventually the nitrite once the cycle begins, followed by nitrates. Once everything is settled, which will take a while, u can do water change weekly or every 3-5 days for a small tank

Hi bro, seems alot more easier to understand now. Well i did say the items listed to you are in fact above average. Everything quoted to you are exactly what we are looking for in terms of reliability, don't require it to be top end brands or anything fanciful. Some guidelines of pricing that i got from websites and sponsors on this forum, i hope it gives u a rough guide, please do not quote me on this pricing. Its what i can fetch from the forum and sponsor websites. Only use it as a estimate, actual price may differ due to discounts or availbility. Jebao wp 60 wave maker x 2 = $258 (129 each) Maxspect lightset : For 180cm (72") tanks: - For marine tanks, we would recommend 3x 120w model (A10000) or 2x 160w model (M16000/M10000) suspension mounted. So i am assuming its gonna be 2 x 160w = $1296 (648 each) Ehiem 1264 = $387 Protien skimmer, Bubble magus (depending on model no.) = $700 to $1200 Liverocks depend on source and quality = assuming $15 a kg = 100kg = $1500 Fish and corals = $1000 Seawater is rougly $4 to $5 for 10liters: 680L main tank: $340, 40 inch sump 381L(assuming same length and height) : $190. Total cost: $530 Base on these its already about $6100 excluding chiller, tank, stand, sump, plumbing, coral chips. I think its a fair quote. but have you asked other tank makers for quotation.

End of the day i will say it depends on how much your company is willing to fork out for a 6ft tank, and purpose of the tank. Because the brand and reliability of each item is going to differ very largely.

Yeah it really depends man. If they quote u base on item and not specific brand. I.e LED light , protein skimmer for 6ft, 1 horse power chiller. Who knows what they going to give you bro. For 13k-14k quote, its hard even for us to say if thats cheap or expensive. For example, they can get a 6ft cheap led light from china company for maybe 300-400. Wherelse to get a good set of marine LED lightset, 1 unit (coverage of 2ft perhaps) is already 400++. Skimmer plenty of brands out there. Vertex, reef octopus, Bubble magus, deltec etc etc. '1 horse power air con chiller' is not a brand, but an item. Its the rate of the chiller and chilling capacity. There are many brands included commercially known aircon brands like daikin if looking for a drop in coil with external condenser unit. I guess if you need some inputs on the quotation you are getting, probably more information from the company will be required. I suggest looking into couple of sponsors here and getting a quote.

So heres some updates on the tank with Polyplab reef resh. Overall no noticeable changes. Zoas are doing great, Anemone is opening really huge, LPS are all doing well. SPS has started to pale in colour, and PE is not as good as before. Currently still doing well are my true optic and couple of birdnest frags. Cal: 450 (Salifert) Alk: 8.5 (Salifert) Po4: 0.03 (Salifert) N03: 30ppm (Salifert) Mg: 1450 (Salifert) PH: 8.4 (American pinpoint controller) Sal: 1.025 So my sps are barely hanging in there at the moment. From the looks of it, it seems the main issue with the parameters is my nitrates. The reef resh has not made a noticeable difference, or maybe its still too early to determine if its working. Its only been a week plus. No3 went from 20ppm to 30ppm despite me changing out 30% water twice over the week. So i got a question guys, Is there a lifespan to livesand? I'm basically using livesand from my previous tank, so its about 4 yrs old now. Can this be the cause of my nitrates? Visually the sand looks really clean, no obvious detritus, no algae, my goby does a good job cleaning it too. Thinking of switching to barebottom, but if given the choice would rather not. I know i shouldnt have used back the sand, but i didnt think i would continue with the nano after decom of my old tank, was just a temp home while i had my other fishes being sold off. Feeding half a cube of mysis daily for 5 fishes since my sunburst still not feeding on pellets. Is this the main cause of my nitrates? Was thinking of reducing my feeding, but don't want to starve the anthias at the same time. Update of my fish stock: 2 x True perc, 1x 6line wrasse, 1x Diamond goby, 1x Sunburst Anthias, 2x Cleaner shrimps. (sold off my damsel and firefishes in effort to reduce bioload)

Hi guys, Looking for the above to start a new nano tank for fish only. let me know if you have one for sale and skimmer condition. Thanks, 90020585 Jarrett

Haha alright....under the reply box....u will see "More Reply options"...click on that.....On the new page, scroll down, under the reply box....u will see "attach files"..click choose file....u can upload pics <8mb. What i recommend is to open ur picture using paint, and resize it to 50%.

Had this issue before. I did a research and it pointed to "zoa pox". Try reading up on this and see if u have the similar issue. It was doing fine for weeks, and one day the zoa pox took over

Hmm, its really quite a hit or miss with natural predators. U can also try peppermint shrimps and filefish.