tofubox

I was considering using artificial rocks when i had my nitrate problem. Advantages are that it is absolutely pest free, doesn't requiring curing, and it won't leach phosphate if used for long term. These are common problems with live rock, especially phosphates. Previously, i used back my live rocks from a FOWLR tank, it was leaching phosphates non stop and couldn't bring it down. Decided to start fresh and bought new live rocks. Reason i chose to go with live in the end was because i could not find a suitable artificial rock for my aquascape in mind, also the live rocks i got from CF were very porous which is good for anaerobic bacteria growth. Last reason was, i just couldnt trust an artificial rock that was made from a company with no reviews available online.

Any photo updates from go shipment?

Hi, bringing up an old post, I have a maxspect razor 10k 120w, over a 2ft length, 1.5ft tall tank. Lightset is 7 inch above the surface. I would like to supplement the maxspect with t5 to get the best overall growth + colour. Will be getting a diy t5 set 2 x 24 w and attaching to the edge of the maxspect heat plate. My question is what colour bulb should i be looking at? The blueplus + true actinic? Would really like my coral colours to pop since I am currently on 10k leds and also to supplement spectrums lacking in leds. Anyone can advise? How long should the t5s be switched on? Will 4 - 5 hrs be suffice? Main idea is to rely mostly on the leds, to expand the lifespan of the t5s. T5s for colouration purposes mainly. Will really appreciate some advice.

I think u should switch job to marine photography if theres a market for it.

More n more like a rainbow tank

You can safely use the matured rocks if the itch happened 6 months ago. "Once the protomont attaches to a surface, it begins to encyst and is now called a tomont. Division inside the cyst into hundreds of daughter parasites, called tomites, begins shortly thereafter. This noninfectious stage can last anywhere from three to twenty-eight days. During this extended period, the parasite cyst is lying in wait for a host. After this period, the tomites hatch and begin swimming around, looking for a fish host. At this point, they are called theronts, and they must find a host within twenty-four hours or die." http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1985626

Explosion of sunburst anthias all a sudden. Do note those who are interested, they require some feeding training initially to accept frozen food, followed by pellets. May be difficult initially due to its timid nature and food competition with other fishes. Mutiple feedings a day will be best, prepare for any nitrate spike if your tank can't handle increased amount of frozen food too well. It will only come out if its comfortable with its surroundings and tank mates, avoid if you have any aggressive fish in the tank, such as damsels. They do best on their own, due to aggressive nature against its own kind. But that said, u can be lucky with a pair or a small grp still. Still my favourite fish till date. Small and such a beauty

Sweeeeee! Firing up the system! Looking forward to more updates!

Yup, the bubble tip at iwarna still available as at 10am this morning. Nice rich colour, attached itself to a clam shell. lol.

Bump! still looking

Love the aquascape! camping here for more photos!

I guess it may still be valid, for purchase of pre cut glass lengths.

Hey viviancoco, u can try nanyang seaview, they have stock for plenty of artificial liverocks, left side when u enter the building. Not very costly.

Biohomme and bio pellets are different things bro. Biohomme is a bacteria housing media, to increase your bacteria. Bio pellets are like food for the bacteria.

+1 to bro bombom. It depends if the liverock still has any ich cyst. You can transfer them to the new tank, while the new tank cycles, do not add any fishes for about a month. During this period, u can add clean up crews and corals. After a month or so, u can try adding a fish or two and observe for any ich outbreaks. If no problem, your live rocks should be free of ich. Also depends when you mentioned history of ich on liverocks, how long ago was it, and has there been any outbreak since.

Its our responsibility to give the best care we can to the livestock we purchase. Its like any pet, we value their lives, and will provide care as appropriate to their needs. Sometimes, we can't cater to all its needs, i.e we try our best to remove pest, kill off itch from fishes, control water parameters, but they still die. But from this we can also learn what to avoid, and what to implement to make a difference in future. Either way, if you reckon clam is not for you, than a good lesson is learnt and you can avoid such purchases in future. Only trust a reliable seller. Clams are not all difficult, it may be true what the LFS is telling you, but if it isn't opening, its a good sign that something is wrong in the tank, like pest or water chemistry. As mentioned, you wont be testing your parameters, i suggest keeping less demanding livestock, or just stick to fishes, as corals including clams rely heavily on water chemistry and good husbandry. And yes, if you don't have even have an inch of guilt if something is going to die, than change of hobby will be the best option. Well, if you do, than i hope you learn from it.

Hmm, I can't recall the name. Maybe someone ID it? Yeah, personally i think t5s will be better. But I'm really bad with the diy stuff. I feel 10k and 16k really quite a colour difference for sps corals. Anyone good with diy t5, hit me up please!

Bro, get an ios tank! can custom make one at a affordable price. Less hassle when moving

Dip the corals with coral RX or TLF revive. Will get rid of any pest on your zoa. Alternatively just freshwater dip it. Zoas are very hardy corals.

Any pic of your elegance in jar, curious to see

Never add what u can't test bro. You probably overdosed a certain element. Best to check, or borrow test kits. Ca , kh and mg work hand in hand, if your KH is low (since u dont dose), and u have high CA, your CA is just gonna precipitate out and become useless. The excess CA will now deposit on your equipment, causing possible failure in a short term. MG is good as it keeps your ca and kh stable, but u need to get the right balance first. If you are using a good salt mix, and change water regularly, usually u dont need to add MG at all. Unless ur salt mix is low on mg in the first place.

Can anyone help me out on lighting, I am currently using maxspect 10k, would like to bring out the 16k/ 20k look. Have a spare par38 on hand, possible to supplement lighting with a par38? If so, what led bulb colour do i need to use? Blue? red? If i supplement with par38 for the 16k look, do i need to turn down intensity on the maxspect? Other alternative is to install 2 diy 24w T5, on either side of the maxspect fixture, but that will mean more spending and more complications. Hoping the par38 option is feasible. Please advise guys!

For those not sure how to frag corals, just do a google search. They have videos on everything, from anemone, to soft corals, to zoas, to lps and sps.

Hey martian, If its not a natural predation issue, than its your water chemistry. Have u checked your SG, KH and CA recently? One of them is probably too low. Calms are pretty demanding on CA and KH. They can survive in a wide range, but if it dips too low, the clam has nothing to use for growth. Hence it will close up to conserve energy for survival.

Some close of shots of my sps. Sorry for the bad quality, using my s3 to take. How to tell if my blue stag is doing well? I can't see much pe on it, compared to the rest of my sps. Colour is still holding well, just not sure if its doing ok. Can advise?